Peugeot bare steel project
Dan94
Posts: 7
First off, I'm new to the forum and I'm still working things out. So if I posted this in the wrong place, please point me in the right direction.
Right, the bike. It started out as a peugeot premiere dating from the 80's and was originally sold by Paul Burton's in Staffordshire. I bought it off ebay late last year with intentions of stripping, powder coating and rebuilding as a singlespeed. However, I've changed my mind and as it stands the bike will be rebuilt with the original 10speed groupset and left with the raw steel finish. Right now I've just started the rebuild, headset and forks are back in, as is the bottom bracket.
Now I know I'm not the first to go with raw steel, in fact I got the idea from another bike on this forum, a gorgeous thing with full dura ace. For now that's a little out of my price range, but a boy can dream. Anyway, his was clear coated by armourtex, but no one around me is prepared to do a clear coat onto bare steel. So my plan is to use white lightning crystal grease (clear, non-staining, biodegradable) and smear a thin layer all over the frame in order to keep the rust at bay. Time will tell how this works but if anyone has any advice I'd love to hear it.
The wheels are my next dilemma. I'm not entirely sure what my current ones are. I know it's a Regina 5speed freewheel, they're alloy rims and I would guess steel spokes given the corrosion. Point being they aren't particularly attractive, and whilst they'd do the job I would like to replace them at some point. However, the rear dropout spacing is 126mm, making life a little tricky. So I either pay for an old set of 126 hubs and have them built up at my lbs (no idea how much that would cost) or I cold set the frame and get a modern wheel set. But then can you even get a 5 speed cassette? (I'm still learning so please offer advice). Which option would you go for?
I think that covers it for now. I'll post more as things progress.
Oh and sorry for the lack of pictures, apparently the files are too big but I'll work it out eventually.
Right, the bike. It started out as a peugeot premiere dating from the 80's and was originally sold by Paul Burton's in Staffordshire. I bought it off ebay late last year with intentions of stripping, powder coating and rebuilding as a singlespeed. However, I've changed my mind and as it stands the bike will be rebuilt with the original 10speed groupset and left with the raw steel finish. Right now I've just started the rebuild, headset and forks are back in, as is the bottom bracket.
Now I know I'm not the first to go with raw steel, in fact I got the idea from another bike on this forum, a gorgeous thing with full dura ace. For now that's a little out of my price range, but a boy can dream. Anyway, his was clear coated by armourtex, but no one around me is prepared to do a clear coat onto bare steel. So my plan is to use white lightning crystal grease (clear, non-staining, biodegradable) and smear a thin layer all over the frame in order to keep the rust at bay. Time will tell how this works but if anyone has any advice I'd love to hear it.
The wheels are my next dilemma. I'm not entirely sure what my current ones are. I know it's a Regina 5speed freewheel, they're alloy rims and I would guess steel spokes given the corrosion. Point being they aren't particularly attractive, and whilst they'd do the job I would like to replace them at some point. However, the rear dropout spacing is 126mm, making life a little tricky. So I either pay for an old set of 126 hubs and have them built up at my lbs (no idea how much that would cost) or I cold set the frame and get a modern wheel set. But then can you even get a 5 speed cassette? (I'm still learning so please offer advice). Which option would you go for?
I think that covers it for now. I'll post more as things progress.
Oh and sorry for the lack of pictures, apparently the files are too big but I'll work it out eventually.
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Comments
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The before photo....
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The current state of the bike.....
The list of things to go back on so far is:
-Selle Italia Turbo saddle in tan suede
-Deda Brown lasagne look far tape
-Tektro RL720 cross top brake levers
-Clarkes cables and chain
-wienman type 500 brakes
-Original bars, stem, seat post, crankset and derailleurs.
Already back in is the new dia-compe (although it says Tange on it) headset and shimano un55 BB0 -
Dan94 wrote:So my plan is to use white lightning crystal grease (clear, non-staining, biodegradable) and smear a thin layer all over the frame in order to keep the rust at bay. Time will tell how this works but if anyone has any advice I'd love to hear it.
Sorry, that's a ridiculous idea - have you thought it through properly?0 -
How did you strip the paint from the frame?0
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Imposter- what makes you say that? Sure it might be a bit messy, but having wiped of the excess it really isn't that bad and if I regularly top it up with more grease I can't see any problem. It's also no staining so if I get it on my clothes it's no drama. As I understand it that will prevent rusting. I've heard of other people using linseed oil for the same purpose, and I can't see my method being much different. This is at the end of the day a bit of an experiment and if it doesn't work I will go with the original plan and powder coat it.
Shazzz- I had the frame blasted to get the paint off (at that point I still intended to powder coat). That left a very dull, rough surface. I used a wire brush attachment in a drill to get this finish. Took a good few hours but I'm off work after having my tonsils out and frightfully bored, so that wasn't a problem.0 -
Why not just use clearcoat?0
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Crampeur wrote:Why not just use clearcoat?
Well I've been told by several people that clearcoat won't adhere to bare metal and will chip off. That's why the powder coaters didn't want to do it. However, that would be the ideal solution, so if you know of a clearcoat that will stick to bare steel, please let me know. There must be one out there because as I mentioned earlier, I've seen another raw steel bike on here that was clearcoated by armourtex.0 -
Dan94 wrote:Imposter- what makes you say that? Sure it might be a bit messy, but having wiped of the excess it really isn't that bad and if I regularly top it up with more grease I can't see any problem. It's also no staining so if I get it on my clothes it's no drama. As I understand it that will prevent rusting. I've heard of other people using linseed oil for the same purpose, and I can't see my method being much different. This is at the end of the day a bit of an experiment and if it doesn't work I will go with the original plan and powder coat it.
Sorry, no offence mate, but it's such an absurd idea I can't believe you are even suggesting it. First ride out on a hot, dry, dusty day and your entire bike will be caked in dust, dirt, flies, etc - at which point the bike will need the grease removing and re-applying before the next ride - unless you just plan on leaving it until it looks like a dustball. Plus, you will only ever be able to handle the bike by the contact points, without touching the frame - and if you do touch it, the grease will then contaminate your bar tape or whatever else you touch. Plus, while the grease might not stain your clothes (dirty grease will, see above), you will still get it on your clothes while you ride.0 -
No offence taken, I asked for opinions and yours are reasonable concerns. You're right, it seems I hadn't thought it through entirely. Handling the bike wouldn't be a problem, I've managed so far just using the bars/stem and seatpost. However, attracting the dirt would be an issue, although in fairness having wiped off the excess grease it isn't all that sticky.
So in the long term it looks like it will have to be a clearcoat (assuming I keep the bare steel look, which I am growing fond of). Suggestions?0 -
Why don't you send pop it in the post to Armourtex to do their stuff?
Or go to a car sprayer and get it sprayed in clear lacquer? Or am I missing something?Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am
De Sisti wrote:
This is one of the silliest threads I've come across.
Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honoursmithy21 wrote:
He's right you know.0 -
A durable clearcoat over bare steel has been like looking for the Holy Grail. Many have tried, many have failed. It usually either cracks/chips/doesn't adhere properly or discolours quite quickly.
I have had no dealings with Armourtex, they could have found a decent solution, they could be winging it or they might just accept that it isn't a perfect and will require regular refurb. The best thing you can do is speak to them directly and see what they say.
I agree with the others though, covering it in grease will quickly drive you nuts.
Good luckMud to Mudguards. The Art of framebuilding.
http://locksidebikes.co.uk/0 -
I´ve used clear coat (Halfords spray can) on bare steel, see pic below. Early days yet as have not ridden the bike in the rain etc but had no problems with adherence, cracking etc. Probably used approx 5 or 6 coats in total,
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Its a long shot, anyone thought of using clear plastidip?
It will be like a rubber coating on the frame but will still show the metal and is easy to strip off0 -
I know alot of classic motorcycle guys use ACF50 to coat bare metal0
