Reba questions

declan1
declan1 Posts: 2,470
edited August 2014 in MTB workshop & tech
Hello!

I've just received a pair of 2009 Rebas, purchased on eBay as an upgrade from my Solo Air XC32s! So far they seem to be amazing - smooth as butter, really light and very adjustable.

I have a few questions!

They were advertised with lockout not working - I realise this is quite a common issue with Motion Control dampers, however the symptoms with these aren't the same. The lockout makes a difference to the forks, with the forks hitting a softish 'bumper' at around 50mm of travel. They can go through this easily however. The rebound works perfectly and the forks use all of their travel too.

As far as I'm aware if the damper o-ring fails (don't know which one) the oil will fall into the lowers and prevent the forks from using full travel, which isn't the case with mine.

Also, none of the adjustments 'click'. The compression, rebound and floodgate adjusters don't have any indentations and just turn freely - is this normal?

Sorry for the long post and thanks in advance for any help!

Road - Dolan Preffisio
MTB - On-One Inbred

I have no idea what's going on here.

Comments

  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    If the lever is removed and not refitted in the right place you can get that issue......
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    There is no indentations. Does the floodgate adjust make a difference?
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  • declan1
    declan1 Posts: 2,470
    What lever? It's not poploc if that's what you mean - it's just the adjuster on the top of the right leg.

    If I turn the floodgate counter-clockwise the compression adjuster does absolutely nothing. Only if I turn the floodgate fully clockwise does the compression have the effect I mentioned above.

    Road - Dolan Preffisio
    MTB - On-One Inbred

    I have no idea what's going on here.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    The lever (adjuster as you call it) on the leg.

    Wind full clockwise, remove and refit as far anti clockwise as you can (sensibly), wind clockwise until it stops, this ensures the damper rod rotates goes as far as it can, then remove adjuster and refit just off full clockwise.

    If the lever is removed with the lockout only half on and then refitted at full clockwise, the damper rod can never be rotated to full lockout position.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • declan1
    declan1 Posts: 2,470
    The Rookie wrote:
    The lever (adjuster as you call it) on the leg.

    Wind full clockwise, remove and refit as far anti clockwise as you can (sensibly), wind clockwise until it stops, this ensures the damper rod rotates goes as far as it can, then remove adjuster and refit just off full clockwise.

    If the lever is removed with the lockout only half on and then refitted at full clockwise, the damper rod can never be rotated to full lockout position.

    Sorry for having very little knowledge of these things - do you mean the blue thing on the top? I presume I need to remove the circlip and just pull it off?

    Road - Dolan Preffisio
    MTB - On-One Inbred

    I have no idea what's going on here.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Depends on the year, check using the manual from the RS webby......
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.

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