2 separate problems, 1 brake and 1 free hub
Hi,
I have 2 problems, one on each bike. Im new to trying to repair them myself so please be gentle!
The rear brake on my Bianchi Impulso (a Reparto Corse RC-471E which I think is equal to Tektro R540?), anyway the problem was that despite setting up the brakes as per numerous online guides, when I squeeze the trigger the pads come in but then don't spring back to their starting position - so even running with the quick release open they are very close to/touching the rim after releasing the trigger. I can manually pull them apart with little force.
I had tried cleaning and lubricating the brake in situ but no effect. I removed the brake and took it to pieces, cleaning and lubricating as I put it back together, seemed to move OK off the bike but hard to tell really as it was all manual manipulation. I put it back on the bike and threaded a new brake cable (managed without removing bar tape but this was a time consuming process!) and lubricated the cable and the outers but the problem is EXACTLY the same
any ideas? New brake time?
Secondly, I recently inherited another bike, Spesh Allez Sport 2010 or so. The free hub/free wheel is "rubbing" in that when the rear wheel is coasting it makes a constant grinding/rubbing sound, can't see anything trapped. Tried cleaning and lubricating what I can without disassembly. The same sound is made if I remove the wheel and spin the cassette. Any ideas?
I should add that this bike was recently serviced at a local shop before I got it (and only ridden once since) but I feel cheeky taking it back as it wasn't me who got it serviced and I've already been into the shop with the bike to get them to remove the old pedals!! :P
Sorry for long post and thanks for any help.
Chris
I have 2 problems, one on each bike. Im new to trying to repair them myself so please be gentle!
The rear brake on my Bianchi Impulso (a Reparto Corse RC-471E which I think is equal to Tektro R540?), anyway the problem was that despite setting up the brakes as per numerous online guides, when I squeeze the trigger the pads come in but then don't spring back to their starting position - so even running with the quick release open they are very close to/touching the rim after releasing the trigger. I can manually pull them apart with little force.
I had tried cleaning and lubricating the brake in situ but no effect. I removed the brake and took it to pieces, cleaning and lubricating as I put it back together, seemed to move OK off the bike but hard to tell really as it was all manual manipulation. I put it back on the bike and threaded a new brake cable (managed without removing bar tape but this was a time consuming process!) and lubricated the cable and the outers but the problem is EXACTLY the same
any ideas? New brake time?Secondly, I recently inherited another bike, Spesh Allez Sport 2010 or so. The free hub/free wheel is "rubbing" in that when the rear wheel is coasting it makes a constant grinding/rubbing sound, can't see anything trapped. Tried cleaning and lubricating what I can without disassembly. The same sound is made if I remove the wheel and spin the cassette. Any ideas?
I should add that this bike was recently serviced at a local shop before I got it (and only ridden once since) but I feel cheeky taking it back as it wasn't me who got it serviced and I've already been into the shop with the bike to get them to remove the old pedals!! :P
Sorry for long post and thanks for any help.
Chris
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Comments
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1) Take the brake caliper off the bike and check if the spring still works and has not slipped out of place. If the spring is indeed faulty then bin it and get new ones. The problem can also be caused by over tightening the nut at the back.0
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Hi thanks for quick reply, the spring is definitely in place and seems to be in working order given how much force it took to get back on! I was thinking of that nut too, Im assuming you mean the one holding the whole brake on from the underside of the seat stays? so try loosening that a bit and tighten the nut behind the calliper and that will still hold the brake central? Otherwise I'm assuming the brake will pivot if I loosen that screw?0
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Yeah the bolt at the back shouldnt be too tight or too lose. Problem calipers are not worth the trouble. You should always bin them0
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Does the freehub on hte Allez have a plastic spoke protector behind the cassette. If it does, this is probably the source of the noise. Take the cassette of and bin the spoke protector. If you don't have the wherewithall to remove the cassette, spoke protectors can be cut off with a stanley knife. Watch your fingers though.I have only two things to say to that; Bo***cks0
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Sounds like the rear hub bearings need a clean out and regrease.0
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Hi,
Yeh the spoke protector is gone, it does sound like bearings or some alignment problem behind the free hub. Is it straightforward to clean the bearings? I have a tool to remove campag cassettes and a chain whip, I'm assuming I need a different tool for this, shimano sora, cassette? Is the hub easy/cheap to replace? Would this solve the issue if bearing related?
Thanks again.0 -
Freehub is relatively easy / cheap to replace, if you can source the correct one. The hub itself is what the spokes are attached to, so that's a bit tricky unless you're good at building wheels.
As to what is causing the problem, you'll only find out by stripping the thing down. I suspect an Allez with Sora will have an unbranded hub of some description with cartridge bearings, so they should be easily replaced. Finding the correct freehub might be a bit more of a challenge. LBS or Spesh dealer might be able to help?0 -
When you span the wheel in your fingers did it feel like there was grinding and not just a sound? Maybe hub pawls just need regreasing. If you can take freehub off and see if there is a spacer a tenth mm thick or so that sits through the axle separating hub and free hub inner bearings. If not could be worth adding one. Could quite easily be misplaced during a service and that little bit of metal can help immensely. My powertap rear wheel never felt right from new but added a spacer and its like a totally different hub.0
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Thanks for all your help guys.
Sadly both bikes are still in the same state!
I tried loosening the bolt holding the brake on but this didn't improve the situation, I think the brake may be up for replacement unless any more suggestions? Centaur brakes on Ribble are 32 quid, or do you think take the bike to the shop to try and salvage these ones?
I took the cassette off the other bike and had a look at the free hub, I couldn't remove the free hub as I don't seem to have anywhere near large enough allen key so unsure if a spacer is present. There is a grinding feel as well as the noise with just the free hub rotating on the wheel and vice versa. There is a small bit of play in it too. I think this will have to go to the shop to get a new free hub unless any more suggestions?
Thanks again guys.0 -
If you remove the freehub, you will see there is a rubber seal on the inboard end off it (assuming it's a Shimano). If you remove the rubber seal and boil the freehub in a pan of water, it will remove all the grease and crud. Blow the freehub dry (or hose with WD40) and then mix some grease and some oil into a sort of slop and pack as much as you can into the thin gap followed by reinserting the rubber seal. I did this on my XT freehub about 800 miles ago and it's still running perfectly :-).
Forgot to mention, this method works for sticking pawls but if there's cassette wobble, a 10mm allen key (or socket and breaker bar) are all you need to replace it.0 -
Roux_guy wrote:If you remove the freehub, you will see there is a rubber seal on the inboard end off it (assuming it's a Shimano). If you remove the rubber seal and boil the freehub in a pan of water, it will remove all the grease and crud. Blow the freehub dry (or hose with WD40) and then mix some grease and some oil into a sort of slop and pack as much as you can into the thin gap followed by reinserting the rubber seal. I did this on my XT freehub about 800 miles ago and it's still running perfectly :-).
Forgot to mention, this method works for sticking pawls but if there's cassette wobble, a 10mm allen key (or socket and breaker bar) are all you need to replace it.
I'd recommend this but not the poaching step. Just pick out the seal (observe which way round it goes) and drizzle in copious amounts of a medium weight oil while spinning the freehub backwards. I've used motor oil and gearbox oil in the past. It should flush the crap out of the other end and lubricate the internals. Replace the seal the right way round and refit to the hub.0 -
keef66 wrote:Roux_guy wrote:If you remove the freehub, you will see there is a rubber seal on the inboard end off it (assuming it's a Shimano). If you remove the rubber seal and boil the freehub in a pan of water, it will remove all the grease and crud. Blow the freehub dry (or hose with WD40) and then mix some grease and some oil into a sort of slop and pack as much as you can into the thin gap followed by reinserting the rubber seal. I did this on my XT freehub about 800 miles ago and it's still running perfectly :-).
Forgot to mention, this method works for sticking pawls but if there's cassette wobble, a 10mm allen key (or socket and breaker bar) are all you need to replace it.
I'd recommend this but not the poaching step. Just pick out the seal (observe which way round it goes) and drizzle in copious amounts of a medium weight oil while spinning the freehub backwards. I've used motor oil and gearbox oil in the past. It should flush the crap out of the other end and lubricate the internals. Replace the seal the right way round and refit to the hub.
Poach it in engine oil.- - - - - - - - - -
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