1*10 questions

Lewis A
Lewis A Posts: 767
edited June 2014 in MTB buying advice
Hi all, I'm in the process of upgrading my bike to 1*10, (drivetrain needed replacing anyway) and I have a couple of questions regarding gearing.
Currently, my bike is running 3*9, and, like many I very never/rarely use the granny or the big ring respectivley. I'm keen on 1* rather than 2*, due to the extra cost of a shifter, mech, the added weight and complexity. At the moment I have a 32t middle and 11-32 cassette. I've been thinking about putting on an 11-36 XT cassette, in case I need it for longer days. Thing is, I'm torn between 11-34/6 and also 32/4t chainring. I use my bike to ride 2 miles on road to and from work everyday, it's hilly (Scotland), and I do spin out in my middle ring. I'm pretty sorted regarding which parts I'll use (Zee (Zed) mech, Saint shifter, etc.), but this is a bit of a dilemma.

Any advice?
Cube Analog 2012 with various upgrades.

Comments

  • felix.london
    felix.london Posts: 4,067
    edited June 2014
    ride around in your middle ring only for a few days and see which ends of the cassette you feel you're missing.

    http://www.bikecalc.com/gear_ratios
    "Why have that extra tooth if you're not using it?" - Brian Lopes

    Votec V.SX Enduro 'Alpine Thug' 2012/2013 build

    Trek Session 8
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    When going 1* on an MTB always use the widest range cassette available, so 11-36 for 10 speed, it's silly to loose any range at all.

    As for 32 or 34T front, I run 32 and 11-34 (1*9), with 1*10 I would probably run a 34T, but it depends on you, your riding, how fit you are and where you ride!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • wilberforce
    wilberforce Posts: 294
    I switched to 1x10 two months ago, running 34T front and 11-36 rear. No issues so far and range seems just fine for both climbing and also flat tarmac
  • njee20
    njee20 Posts: 9,613
    The Rookie wrote:
    When going 1* on an MTB always use the widest range cassette available, so 11-36 for 10 speed, it's silly to loose any range at all.

    As for 32 or 34T front, I run 32 and 11-34 (1*9), with 1*10 I would probably run a 34T, but it depends on you, your riding, how fit you are and where you ride!

    This. I ran a 36t with 11-36 on 1x10, suited me. YMMV.
  • BloggingFit
    BloggingFit Posts: 919
    I run 11/36 rear, 34t in winter and 36t in summer.
    Bird Aeris : Trek Remedy 9.9 29er : Trek Procaliber 9.8 SL
  • Lewis A
    Lewis A Posts: 767
    I'm sure I replied just after the beginner, but here goes again... Looking at the ratios calculator I think I'll probably go for 34/11-36. Unfortunately I snapped the chain on my bike last week, so I bought a new one (It was past saving), but it jumps like hell in the middle ring (presumably it's much more worn than the inner and outer) so I can't really double check I can get up everything, though I'm pretty sure of almost all my riding. If I can nearly get up everything in a 32-32 gear, will I still with 34-36? I'm certain I said something else, but I can't remember what...
    Cube Analog 2012 with various upgrades.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    34/36 is a lower gear than 32/32, so if you can get up it now it will be easier on the new gearing.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Lewis A
    Lewis A Posts: 767
    Great, thanks all, your advice has really helped. I sense a big post in the I've ordered thread...
    Cube Analog 2012 with various upgrades.