New wheels, new cassette, new chain too??
Hi guys,
A couple of questions for your more expert opinions (must confess at being a novice for workshop stuff!)
I have a 2013/14 Campag chorus 11s compact groupset on my new Wilier (bought 2nd hand - only 6 months old) and I've just splashed out on some fancy new Shamal wheels. The Chorus set has covered fewer than 1000 miles, so is like new, but it runs an 11-25 rear cassette. I'd like to swap this for a new chorus 12-29, which I would then mount on my new Shamal wheels. Do you think the chain would be fine for this, or do I need to swap it. The chain is standard campag chorus 11s chain. The reason for asking is that on my old Wilier, I replaced the cassette and ended up having to replace the chain. Although I must add that chain was 4 years old and had done 15k miles...and was over stretched :oops:
2nd question...I made the fatal mistake of actually reading the instructions for the new wheels where it says the wheels need to have their tension adjusted, their centering (not really a word i know!) checked, and lastly be balanced before use. Can this be right?? or are they just covering themselves??
Any advice would be gratefully received! cheers
A couple of questions for your more expert opinions (must confess at being a novice for workshop stuff!)
I have a 2013/14 Campag chorus 11s compact groupset on my new Wilier (bought 2nd hand - only 6 months old) and I've just splashed out on some fancy new Shamal wheels. The Chorus set has covered fewer than 1000 miles, so is like new, but it runs an 11-25 rear cassette. I'd like to swap this for a new chorus 12-29, which I would then mount on my new Shamal wheels. Do you think the chain would be fine for this, or do I need to swap it. The chain is standard campag chorus 11s chain. The reason for asking is that on my old Wilier, I replaced the cassette and ended up having to replace the chain. Although I must add that chain was 4 years old and had done 15k miles...and was over stretched :oops:
2nd question...I made the fatal mistake of actually reading the instructions for the new wheels where it says the wheels need to have their tension adjusted, their centering (not really a word i know!) checked, and lastly be balanced before use. Can this be right?? or are they just covering themselves??
Any advice would be gratefully received! cheers
Wilier Zero.7 Chorus
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Comments
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Existing chain should be fine unless its been abused, my 11sp Chorus chain last 3000 miles before I changed it and even then, it was not at the wear limit.
Regarding the checks on the wheels, they're just covering their ar$e.
Fit new cassette on new wheels, fit new wheels in bike, check that chain length isn't too short to cater for the larger cassette, and go ride. I'm running 34x50 and 12-29 (from 12-27) and my chain length is the same as fitted by Rourkes.WyndyMilla Massive Attack | Rourke 953 | Condor Italia 531 Pro | Boardman CX Pro | DT Swiss RR440 Tubeless Wheels
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drlodge wrote:Existing chain should be fine unless its been abused, my 11sp Chorus chain last 3000 miles before I changed it and even then, it was not at the wear limit.
Regarding the checks on the wheels, they're just covering their ar$e.
Fit new cassette on new wheels, fit new wheels in bike, check that chain length isn't too short to cater for the larger cassette, and go ride. I'm running 34x50 and 12-29 (from 12-27) and my chain length is the same as fitted by Rourkes.
Cheers Drlodge! much appreciated! FWIW, what's a 29 rear on a compact like? do you live / ride only in very hilly places, or are you like me in that it's nice to know you've got something in reserve for general climbing??Wilier Zero.7 Chorus0 -
il sole wrote:Cheers Drlodge! much appreciated! FWIW, what's a 29 rear on a compact like? do you live / ride only in very hilly places, or are you like me in that it's nice to know you've got something in reserve for general climbing??
I live in Surrey so no really long and steep hills near me, and I managed OK on 12-27. I put the 12-29 on before I went up to the Yorkshire Dales and it definately made a difference, managed to keep going on the steep parts much longer and I would have struggled on 12-27. 2 teeth really do make a difference
That said, I do still use the 29 occasionally, perhaps on a long run when the legs are tired. It also helps on steep hills as I can stay seated for longer and spin up them - worked a treat on Whitedown where its 15%+ and I actually got a PB recently without busting a gut. I'm in the camp of "better to have it and not need it, than the need it and not have it".
I've got the 12-27 on my deep carbon tubular wheels now...WyndyMilla Massive Attack | Rourke 953 | Condor Italia 531 Pro | Boardman CX Pro | DT Swiss RR440 Tubeless Wheels
Find me on Strava0
