Creak from right hand side
Hi guys. When I got my new canyon delivered all was well for a couple of dozen miles until it developed a creaking noise on the right downstroke in the crank area.
The LBS said it was just the pedal that needed tightening which solved the problem for a short while. However, after each occasion of pedal tightening the noise stops, then reappears after a little while. Any ideas on what's causing the pedal (unless it's something else like the crank bolts which are also tightened as well) to keep undoing?
Thanks, turb.
The LBS said it was just the pedal that needed tightening which solved the problem for a short while. However, after each occasion of pedal tightening the noise stops, then reappears after a little while. Any ideas on what's causing the pedal (unless it's something else like the crank bolts which are also tightened as well) to keep undoing?
Thanks, turb.
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I'd start with taking both pedals off and applying a good anti-sieze paste to the threads after making sure the threads on the pedal spindle and in the crank arm are clean and not buggered any. I've seem threads come from the manufacturer all bunged up so its just a heads-up there. Reinstall them and set them to the correct torque value then ride some. If it still creaks then you might be looking at bottom bracket bearing issues.
What BB system is this? BSA, Eng, Italian, 386EVO, etc? Some of the experts here can tell you the specific peculiarities for the different BB systems out now. BB30 is known for a creaking and popping in the bearings if they aren't installed correctly and the correct locking adhesive applied to the bearing cartridges.Lets just got for a ride, the heck with all this stuff...0 -
It's a Shimano 105 SM-BB5700 according to the canyon website. It's pressfit I think but I honestly don't have a clue. And I shall clean the threads and test her once this rain goes, darn water...0
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Might be an idea to try some loctite on the pedal threads as they sound like they are working themselves loose with use.0
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Cleats?0
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Don't use Loctite as you'll never get the buggers off. Copperslip and tighten up properly.
Cleats are a good call, as are the actual pedals themselves: are they old? in which case they may either be about to fall apart or may need a quick stripdown, clean and grease up.
If none of this then have b/b check, also chainring bolts (take apart, copperslip, do up properly).Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am
De Sisti wrote:
This is one of the silliest threads I've come across.
Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honoursmithy21 wrote:
He's right you know.0 -
Perhaps not surprisingly I have the same problem. I have:
Removed chainset, cleaned, greased and re-installed to correct torque settings.
Tried different shoes (and cleats)
Tried different pedals.
Clicking/graunch still occurs particularly under heavy load.
I can't remember the BB no. but it didn't feel odd in any way when I removed the chainset.
Any further ideas please ?
Many thanks0 -
Agree completely on not using Loctite or any thread locker on a threaded BB, my recommendation was for the BB30 and PF30, in particular. Should have been clearer in my reply. If you use any thread locking compound I'd advise going to the Loctite website for their product application guide. Some of the high grade locking compounds will require heat and extreme force to break them loose, they can cause you to strip out the threads, easily.
You might check for technical bulletins from Shimano or your bicycle manufacturer, also.Lets just got for a ride, the heck with all this stuff...0 -
The cleats & pedals are new. Probably done less than 120 miles on them so far.0
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Old_Timer wrote:Agree completely on not using Loctite or any thread locker on a threaded BB, my recommendation was for the BB30 and PF30, in particular. Should have been clearer in my reply. If you use any thread locking compound I'd advise going to the Loctite website for their product application guide. Some of the high grade locking compounds will require heat and extreme force to break them loose, they can cause you to strip out the threads, easily.
You might check for technical bulletins from Shimano or your bicycle manufacturer, also.
I don't think anyone suggested using Loctite on a BB?? However I can personally testify that using a thin coat of Loctite Blue on your pedal threads will give you no issues when removing them. The fact of the matter remains that if your pedals keep working themselves loose, and if this is definitely causing the creak, then there must be an underlying issue.0 -
chrisgal wrote:Old_Timer wrote:Agree completely on not using Loctite or any thread locker on a threaded BB, my recommendation was for the BB30 and PF30, in particular. Should have been clearer in my reply. If you use any thread locking compound I'd advise going to the Loctite website for their product application guide. Some of the high grade locking compounds will require heat and extreme force to break them loose, they can cause you to strip out the threads, easily.
You might check for technical bulletins from Shimano or your bicycle manufacturer, also.
I don't think anyone suggested using Loctite on a BB?? However I can personally testify that using a thin coat of Loctite Blue on your pedal threads will give you no issues when removing them. The fact of the matter remains that if your pedals keep working themselves loose, and if this is definitely causing the creak, then there must be an underlying issue.
Correct, no one had suggested using a locking compound on the BB, but as the issue involves the BB possibly I mentioned not using Loctite carelessly (the grade of Loctite used.)http://www.loctite.co.uk/homepage.htm Your use of the blue grade (which number BTW?) for pedals is alright if you feel it is necessary for your uses
. I personally use an anti-seize compound on pedal spindle threads and torque them to the recommended value so there are not as difficult to remove properly or damage the crank arm's threads for the pedal's spindle. To each their own , of course.
That said, I misread that loose pedals were causing the noises, that, would be a question of the pedal being installed correctly to me. My experience with noises from the crank set area finds its usually in the BB bearings or their cups/races. I recently thought I had bearing issues with a BB30 bottom bracket, after pulling the BB out and cleaning and greasing it carefully the creak was still there :shock: . I foolishly :oops: neglected to check the new seat post I had installed, it was the cause. I made the rookie mistake of assuming ( when one assumes they make an ass out of 'U" and me :roll: )rather than checking
I had too many bad experiences in motocross racing with people using Red grades of Loctite where it isn't a good idea and pulling the threads out of something when trying to break the item loose. This is why I suggested looking at the Loctite website and using their guide in choosing which grade, or any at all, to use for an application. Not trying to shame or flame anyone, this is a good forum and the info here helps me tremendously. Apologies if I stepped on any toes at all.Lets just got for a ride, the heck with all this stuff...0 -
Exactly - I suggest you do not use Loctite on the pedal threads - unless cared for we all know that pedals can become a bugger to get out let alone if they have been Loctited in how many threads on here do we see saying "can't get me pedals out, our kid").
Copperslip, torque in, job jobbed. Anything else is a no - no in my book, but hey, they're your cranks and the end of the day and this isn't North Korea or even the people's Democratic Republic of Putin. I mean post perestroika/glasnost Russia.Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am
De Sisti wrote:
This is one of the silliest threads I've come across.
Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honoursmithy21 wrote:
He's right you know.0 -
Ive read so many tales of creaking and noises and a common denominator seems to be BB30 brackets. I use Hollowtech II and have found them to be superbly reliable and would be very wary of buying a bike that uses BB30. Keen to see if the OP gets a resolve and please do post your findings.This serious internet site..............I serious cat0
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One thing to check is your bottle cages. I don't know if you're on aluminium or carbon frames but if it's an aluminium frame with a metal bottle cage it can cause creaking as the frame flexes. I had a creak I couldn't find for months until someone suggested this to me. Took the bottle cage off, and silence!0
