The steerer is the top part of the forks that comes through the headtube on the frame, the stem attaches to that and the bars attach to the stem.
Of course bars won't come with a new stem, it would be silly as they don't know what length of stem you want to go with the bars.
There is no such thing as a perfect combination of lengths to match up with the fork, bar width and stem length match to the frame, your riding, your physique and your preference.
Who cares what bars look like, they perform a function, do they fail to do that in some way, if so what way and why, how wide are your current bars? What backsweep, rise, upsweep?
For someone with such awesome bike control you want a full rigid to fully exploit it, you seem to know jack about bikes......or was that just something you read as well?
Personally I wouldn't cut the steerer yourself or even fit the forks until you are far more confident / knowledgeable of the process. It really wont cost much for a shop to do it and getting it wrong is a very costly mistake.
What? Pay an LBS to do work? Pah!
I paid a tenner to get a fork cut and an SFN fitted. Less than the cost of the tools to do it properly many times over.
If the steerer is too long, which it probably will be, then yes you (or someone) will need to get the hacksaw out. Personally I'd go to a bike shop or get a mobile bike mechanic in but I don't want to start that debate up again.
'Happiness serves hardly any other purpose than to make unhappiness possible' Marcel Proust.
If the steerer is too long, which it probably will be, then yes you (or someone) will need to get the hacksaw out. Personally I'd go to a bike shop or get a mobile bike mechanic in but I don't want to start that debate up again.
From the previous 7 pages I assume the OP has no idea how to judge the correct steerer length in relation to the spacers and stem to enable him to pretension the headset bearings either.
Is Lewis Hamilton also a mechanic?! Your logic falls down, especially since I already stated that I know jack about bikes. Hence this thread :roll:
All parts on a bike are functional... doesn't stop people (even you!) from opting for aesthetically pleasing parts, does it?
So... are we saying if I want to change to a rigid fork, I need to start hacksawing stuff?!
I think you will find that Lewis (and pretty much any racing driver) knows more about the mechanics of what they are driving than the average mechanic. (Non F1 type)
If all the handlebars are heightened by is a copuple of inches, what's the matter? Is it dangerous, as in less stable mechanically?
Otherwise, I'm sure I can adapt.
You can take a horse to water.....
You're either
1) Beyond help
2) A troll
If you don't like Park Tools, try Sheldon Brown's website (he's no longer of this world so won't try to flog you anything).
I'm out now - unless any future post of yours demonstrates you have read park Tools / Sheldon Brown
If all the handlebars are heightened by is a copuple of inches, what's the matter? Is it dangerous, as in less stable mechanically?
Otherwise, I'm sure I can adapt.
If you raise or lower the bars relative to the saddle, you affect your riding position, which in turn alters how you distribute your weight between the back (saddle and pedals) and the front (handlebars). This in turn affects comfort, balance, how you climb or descend, what happens if the bike leaves the ground for any reason, and what happens when you come back down to Earth. You have two variables at work here - how high the stem is clamped onto the steerer, and where the stem holds the bars (governed in turn by its length and the angle it makes with the steerer) To keep things simple in the first instance, just do your adjusting up or down the steerer until you're comfortable. The stem that came with the bike is probably the right one for most people.
Did you not get this from the very beginning? I didn't want to go banding the troll word around (afterall I only have 33 posts so far) but I did wonder if he's been playing with you. Expertly trolling but still trolling.
Did you not get this from the very beginning? I didn't want to go banding the troll word around (afterall I only have 33 posts so far) but I did wonder if he's been playing with you. Expertly trolling but still trolling.
Err, have you not seen my post from 26th Feb? Here:
Feeding a troll shows a lower intelligence than the troll itself... so you better hope I'm not trolling Seriously, people just love to 'cry troll'... but that's the snacks trolls love best :x
Anyway, the "Assembly / Disassembly Technique" bit from parktools looks simple, I could follow those steps?
I just undo everything, take the old forks out, making note of the order in which everything goes back together again (the washer/ring type things)
Put the new (too long) forks in, mark, then cut them 3mm below the mark.
So, assuming that is all correct - am I looking for the star fangled nut to come into contact with the top of the forks? or just as close to it as possible?
Posts
Of course bars won't come with a new stem, it would be silly as they don't know what length of stem you want to go with the bars.
There is no such thing as a perfect combination of lengths to match up with the fork, bar width and stem length match to the frame, your riding, your physique and your preference.
Who cares what bars look like, they perform a function, do they fail to do that in some way, if so what way and why, how wide are your current bars? What backsweep, rise, upsweep?
For someone with such awesome bike control you want a full rigid to fully exploit it, you seem to know jack about bikes......or was that just something you read as well?
retired 9.6kg Carrera Kraken
The Carrera Hardtail combined thread - come on all you Carrera's!
The Sons Scott Genius RC20 build
All parts on a bike are functional... doesn't stop people (even you!) from opting for aesthetically pleasing parts, does it?
So... are we saying if I want to change to a rigid fork, I need to start hacksawing stuff?!
Giant Trance
Radon ZR 27.5 Race
Btwin Alur700
Merida CX500
I paid a tenner to get a fork cut and an SFN fitted. Less than the cost of the tools to do it properly many times over.
Giant Trance
Radon ZR 27.5 Race
Btwin Alur700
Merida CX500
From the previous 7 pages I assume the OP has no idea how to judge the correct steerer length in relation to the spacers and stem to enable him to pretension the headset bearings either.
Giant Trance
Radon ZR 27.5 Race
Btwin Alur700
Merida CX500
This ^^^. For the umpteenth time
Duster
My Bianchi
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools
+1 potato x n
Giant Trance
Radon ZR 27.5 Race
Btwin Alur700
Merida CX500
*refer to parktools* :shock:
I'm not a mechanic, but I can operate a saw, like every other human being.
Star fangled nut?! I thought that was slang!
So, in unnecessarily complicated terms, I need to lop a bit off the top of the forks. Right, why didn't you say that?!
Why to they make forks, specifically as 'suspension corrected', then make them too big? (if non suspension correction forks are too short?!)
Giant Trance
Radon ZR 27.5 Race
Btwin Alur700
Merida CX500
Refer to park tools.
Giant Trance
Radon ZR 27.5 Race
Btwin Alur700
Merida CX500
You did. You replied on the first page...
Short memory much?
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools
Apologies, I'd written you off after your initial posts. Obviously you're a keeper.
Giant Trance
Radon ZR 27.5 Race
Btwin Alur700
Merida CX500
Otherwise, I'm sure I can adapt.
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-hel ... and-sizing
Just crack on with the hacksaw.
Giant Trance
Radon ZR 27.5 Race
Btwin Alur700
Merida CX500
You can take a horse to water.....
You're either
1) Beyond help
2) A troll
If you don't like Park Tools, try Sheldon Brown's website (he's no longer of this world so won't try to flog you anything).
I'm out now - unless any future post of yours demonstrates you have read park Tools / Sheldon Brown
Duster
My Bianchi
This is first class trolling. Either that or you're as dumb as a bag of pebbles.
Kona Process 134 viewtopic.php?f=10017&t=12994607
If you raise or lower the bars relative to the saddle, you affect your riding position, which in turn alters how you distribute your weight between the back (saddle and pedals) and the front (handlebars). This in turn affects comfort, balance, how you climb or descend, what happens if the bike leaves the ground for any reason, and what happens when you come back down to Earth. You have two variables at work here - how high the stem is clamped onto the steerer, and where the stem holds the bars (governed in turn by its length and the angle it makes with the steerer) To keep things simple in the first instance, just do your adjusting up or down the steerer until you're comfortable. The stem that came with the bike is probably the right one for most people.
XM-057 rigid 29er
Did you not get this from the very beginning? I didn't want to go banding the troll word around (afterall I only have 33 posts so far) but I did wonder if he's been playing with you. Expertly trolling but still trolling.
Err, have you not seen my post from 26th Feb? Here:
Duster
My Bianchi
Anyway, the "Assembly / Disassembly Technique" bit from parktools looks simple, I could follow those steps?
I just undo everything, take the old forks out, making note of the order in which everything goes back together again (the washer/ring type things)
Put the new (too long) forks in, mark, then cut them 3mm below the mark.
Is that along the right lines?
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools
So, assuming that is all correct - am I looking for the star fangled nut to come into contact with the top of the forks? or just as close to it as possible?