Front brake caliper bolt
I'm changing out the brakes on my bike and the rear came off no problems. The front however, no matter what I try I cannot get the bolt out. I've taken the caliper off by just unscrewing it but the bolt is fixed fast.
My last attempt resulted in some slight movement and a loud noise and with it being a carbon fork I stopped there for fear of breaking something.
Any ideas on how to get this bolt out so I can install the front caliper?
My last attempt resulted in some slight movement and a loud noise and with it being a carbon fork I stopped there for fear of breaking something.
Any ideas on how to get this bolt out so I can install the front caliper?
2012 Cube Agree GTC
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Comments
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Squirt a bit of GT85 or similar on it, leave it for a bit and then try. Since you're loosening, you shouldn't damage the carbon, just make sure you're trying to undo it the right way.0
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Is the bolt alloy?
If so you could have some Galvanic corrosion. Is there white dust/specks?
If there are signs of white dust check your BB as well. it can really spread. My BB only just came out.
I had this issue and it took my LBS quite a few days to get the bolt out.
I never let any alloy contact on my carbon bike ....Pro bolts sell titanium caliper bolts.0 -
Thanks for the replies. I can't see any dust but it's all gunked up with road crap around there.
In the end I've just screwed the new front caliper in the same way I got the old one off for now. I'll give it another go removing it and reinstalling when I change my cables out after winter.2012 Cube Agree GTC0 -
birdie23 wrote:Thanks for the replies. I can't see any dust but it's all gunked up with road crap around there.
In the end I've just screwed the new front caliper in the same way I got the old one off for now. I'll give it another go removing it and reinstalling when I change my cables out after winter.
Letting it get further siezed in over the rest of the winter isn't really going to make things any easier when you do come to try again......Faster than a tent.......0 -
You will have to tap it out using a small drift and hammer. Had to do a few of these. 5 or 6mm allen key will work as a drift. Depending on how seized it is will determine how hard you hit the hammer. You are only hitting the bolt itself so you will only damage the fork if you are ham fisted and do something stupid.0
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Rolf F wrote:birdie23 wrote:Thanks for the replies. I can't see any dust but it's all gunked up with road crap around there.
In the end I've just screwed the new front caliper in the same way I got the old one off for now. I'll give it another go removing it and reinstalling when I change my cables out after winter.
Letting it get further siezed in over the rest of the winter isn't really going to make things any easier when you do come to try again......
I only have one bike so it's either that or stop going to work since I don't fancy my chances without a front brake.2012 Cube Agree GTC0 -
Semantik wrote:You will have to tap it out using a small drift and hammer. Had to do a few of these. 5 or 6mm allen key will work as a drift. Depending on how seized it is will determine how hard you hit the hammer. You are only hitting the bolt itself so you will only damage the fork if you are ham fisted and do something stupid.
Thanks, I'll give this a try as soon as I get a chance.2012 Cube Agree GTC0 -
birdie23 wrote:Rolf F wrote:birdie23 wrote:Thanks for the replies. I can't see any dust but it's all gunked up with road crap around there.
In the end I've just screwed the new front caliper in the same way I got the old one off for now. I'll give it another go removing it and reinstalling when I change my cables out after winter.
Letting it get further siezed in over the rest of the winter isn't really going to make things any easier when you do come to try again......
I only have one bike so it's either that or stop going to work since I don't fancy my chances without a front brake.
Well no - not really. You know you can get the brake on with the bolt in situ. You have Semantiks approach to getting the bolt out which seems sensible to me. All putting the brake back on has achieved is that you'll have to take it off again to fix the problem but it makes no difference if you do that now or later beyond the fact that later makes the job potentially harder - so you might as well get it done now. This isn't really a 'stop going to work issue'!
Incidentally, if you really are unable to get to work without the bike then you need to rethink your approach a bit. Your bike will break at some point and it will be something difficult (unlike this problem) - what do you do then? Ideally you get a spare bike or you build up a good collection of spares that you know how to fit yourself.Faster than a tent.......0 -
I walk but walking isn't fun!
I'm going to give semanticks approach a go. Kind of related... Any tips for cleaning in the steerer? It's really gunked up in there.2012 Cube Agree GTC0 -
birdie23 wrote:I walk but walking isn't fun!
I'm going to give semanticks approach a go. Kind of related... Any tips for cleaning in the steerer? It's really gunked up in there.
Really just take the fork out and wipe the mess off and apply some fresh grease. In damage prevention terms, fitting some form of mudguard (eg Crud Roadracer) will do a lot to protect the lower headset bearings. People often seem to get short lifespans out of them on bikes ridden in all weathers without mudguards - those on my Ribble, protected by Cruds, are fine after 18000 miles.
If you are putting loads of miles on a commuter bike, it really is best to get into the habit of fixing problems as they occur rather than thinking in terms of servicing - servicing is either expensive because you are paying for loads of unneccessary work to be done (ie getting the servicing done before any actual problems arise) or irritating because you are riding a bike that is a bag of nails (ie you are getting it serviced when there is lots that actually needs doing).
If you build up a stock of parts, there's not much that can go wrong that you can't easily fix yourself in an hour or so at most.Faster than a tent.......0 -
Rolf F wrote:birdie23 wrote:I walk but walking isn't fun!
I'm going to give semanticks approach a go. Kind of related... Any tips for cleaning in the steerer? It's really gunked up in there.
Really just take the fork out and wipe the mess off and apply some fresh grease. In damage prevention terms, fitting some form of mudguard (eg Crud Roadracer) will do a lot to protect the lower headset bearings. People often seem to get short lifespans out of them on bikes ridden in all weathers without mudguards - those on my Ribble, protected by Cruds, are fine after 18000 miles.
If you are putting loads of miles on a commuter bike, it really is best to get into the habit of fixing problems as they occur rather than thinking in terms of servicing - servicing is either expensive because you are paying for loads of unneccessary work to be done (ie getting the servicing done before any actual problems arise) or irritating because you are riding a bike that is a bag of nails (ie you are getting it serviced when there is lots that actually needs doing).
If you build up a stock of parts, there's not much that can go wrong that you can't easily fix yourself in an hour or so at most.
To be honest it's a really short commute and it rarely gets problems from those miles. It's the really grimy leisure miles this time of year gunking it up. I was going to get roadracers but to be honest with 25mm tyres on and these 6800s I might struggle for clearance.2012 Cube Agree GTC0 -
I use 23mm tyres for that (Crud related) reason!Faster than a tent.......0
