Brake Upgrade

ab20000 · November 2013

Having recently purchased a Cube Ltd Race I have noticed that the brakes (Shimano M505) feel a bit weaker than the old HFX9's on my Norco. The rotors on the Cube are 180mm front and 160mm rear vs. 203mm front and 180mm rear on the Norco. Now I'm 6' 4" and >16st so brakes are something I always focus on and I'm keen to get the best I can within reason (and budget)

So I'm thinking of keeping the setup and uprating the pads and moving to a 203mm front and 180mm floating disc set-up. Should keep the weight the same and improve braking all within a reasonable budget.

Anybody done this before or have any thoughts on other options?

poah · November 2013

the M505's are not particularly good and are a few years old in terms of tech.

changing the front to a 203 (decent make) and M615 brakes should see a big improvement

I run M675 SLX with 203 & 160 and they have more than enough power.

ednino · November 2013

I don't find bigger rotors gives any more power. Just deal better with heat on longer descents.
The power is from the caliper/lever.

I went up to 180mm on my old bike and noticed no difference. I've just gone down to 160mm on the race bike and again no difference in stopping power.

My new SLX brakes are brilliant though. First time i've had really strong stopping power (160mm)

ab20000 · November 2013

So maybe if I run an SLX or M785 XT calliper F&R with current discs and see how this goes - assume I can use the M505 levers (I like the way they feel size wise etc)

Anybody know where I can find weights of these different parts - not going to get too obsessed but keen to avoid upgrading but adding weight.

CitizenLee · November 2013

Try these:

http://weightweenies.starbike.com/
http://www.bikescale.com/

FWIW, I love my SLX M666s. Much better than the old Hope M4s they replaced.

poah · November 2013

ab20000 wrote:

So maybe if I run an SLX or M785 XT calliper F&R with current discs and see how this goes - assume I can use the M505 levers (I like the way they feel size wise etc)

Anybody know where I can find weights of these different parts - not going to get too obsessed but keen to avoid upgrading but adding weight.

M615, M675, M785 all use the same pads

on the levers

M615 need a tool to adjust lever distance
M675 have a knob on the lever
M785 have the knob plus pad adjustment

you'd be hard pressed to actually feel any difference in the power between the 3.

ednino · November 2013

ab20000 wrote:

Anybody know where I can find weights of these different parts - not going to get too obsessed but keen to avoid upgrading but adding weight.

I've just fitted some KCNC rotors on mine. Big weight saving if your into that sort of thing

ab20000 · November 2013

ednino wrote:

I've just fitted some KCNC rotors on mine. Big weight saving if your into that sort of thing

I'm going to try not to be as that could become very expensive. :? I don't want to add weight as the bike feels good and may save some weight on the wheels in future but not going to chase 50g here and there.

poah · November 2013

ednino wrote:

ab20000 wrote:

Anybody know where I can find weights of these different parts - not going to get too obsessed but keen to avoid upgrading but adding weight.

I've just fitted some KCNC rotors on mine. Big weight saving if your into that sort of thing

pish for braking and pad life though

ednino · November 2013

POAH wrote:

ednino wrote:

ab20000 wrote:

Anybody know where I can find weights of these different parts - not going to get too obsessed but keen to avoid upgrading but adding weight.

I've just fitted some KCNC rotors on mine. Big weight saving if your into that sort of thing

pish for braking and pad life though

the braking is fantastic

ab20000 · November 2013

So will I need to change the levers and the callipers or can I just change the callipers? :? :oops:

cooldad · November 2013

Both

ab20000 · December 2013

Out on the bike today and really noticed on quick downhill flat forest tracks and on the road the 505's are quite weak plus the front has developed a squeak. Now is it worth upgrading the pads or should I just accept that they are not quite up to the job and go for some XT M785 or similar? What uprated pad options are there?

rockmonkeysc · December 2013

You don't need XT brakes. Power is the same from Deore right up to XTR. Higher spec and price gets you more adjustment and less weight.
You can get Deores for around £70 and they have loads of power, when I was 17 stone I found them more than powerful enough.
Don't bother with floating rotors, they're completely pointless.

The Rookie · December 2013

It sounds like you have a fault, probably mucky pads, new pads and clean the discs with IPA and power will return!

poah · December 2013

The Rookie wrote:

clean the discs with IPA and power will return!

:shock:

ednino · December 2013

RockmonkeySC wrote:

Don't bother with floating rotors, they're completely pointless.

Agreed^

heavy too

hainman · December 2013

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shim ... prod108802
Afew mates ride with these and they are big guys and swear by them

DCR00 · December 2013

Im around that weight and Deore on 180mm rotors is plenty
IMO you dont get more value for power than Deore

Kowalski675 · December 2013

RockmonkeySC wrote:

You don't need XT brakes. Power is the same from Deore right up to XTR. Higher spec and price gets you more adjustment and less weight.

And the servo wave cam (whether that makes a significanct difference I have no idea). I got my XTs cheaper than SLX, so it was a no brainer.

kajjal · December 2013

To give you a comparison I am also about 16 stone and over 6ft6. My Carve Comp has a 160 rear and 180 front disc. It has elixir 1 brakes and so far after initial tweaking has no problem bringing me to a rapid controlled stop. I can push the bike to the limit of traction round corners and use the brakes to bring the bike back in.

It sounds like you have some sort of fault as disc brakes, even the cheaper ones like mine should bring you to a rapid halt. If you were having issues with rim brakes, especially in the wet on a road bike at 16 stone I would not be surprised.

whitey161 · January 2014

People say not to bother with XT and just get deores but I got my XT's for £68 each off CRC so not much price difference.

DCR00 · January 2014

whitey161 wrote:

People say not to bother with XT and just get deores but I got my XT's for £68 each off CRC so not much price difference.

So thats £80 versus £136.

£56 is quite a difference.

Kowalski675 · January 2014

whitey161 wrote:

People say not to bother with XT and just get deores but I got my XT's for £68 each off CRC so not much price difference.

I got my XTs for £113 from CRC (including a couple of spare pairs of pads, as it turned out) - cheaper than they were selling SLX for at the time. For that price it seemed daft not to spend the little extra.

whitey161 · January 2014

Hmm I guess its a bit of a difference but in the long run £56 ain't that much so id say stump up.
All depends on personal situations though really doesn't it.

chrisrobs · January 2014

DCR00 wrote:

whitey161 wrote:

People say not to bother with XT and just get deores but I got my XT's for £68 each off CRC so not much price difference.

So thats £80 versus £136.

£56 is quite a difference.

But xt are shiny

Kowalski675 · January 2014

chrisrobs wrote:

DCR00 wrote:

whitey161 wrote:

People say not to bother with XT and just get deores but I got my XT's for £68 each off CRC so not much price difference.

So thats £80 versus £136.

£56 is quite a difference.

But xt are shiny

That's the one thing I'd change about mine - I'd rather the master cylinder was black.

Brake Upgrade

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