Rear Mech

iwilldoit
iwilldoit Posts: 710
edited January 2014 in MTB workshop & tech
Hi All,
You will have to forgive me this as most prob be asked before and I have only had a mtb a month so I'm a little clueless, been watching the Bike Radar you tube clip on how to set up a rear mech and they show you with the cable un attached, I'm putting a new chain on my bike this week and want to make sure the gears are changing smoothly, there jumping at the moment

So can I adjust the mech with the cable still attached or do I have to take it off ?

Comments

  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    Why do you need to adjust it? If it is fine now it will be fine after changing the chain.

    Have a read if the info on Parktools for any adjustments you might need to make.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • As I said I haven't got much of a clue, I have read that a worn chain can cause the gears to jump, But if that doesn't sort the problem fully I thought I would have to adjust the mech, the H&L seem fine but I thought the indexing might need looking at.
    I will have a look at the Park Tools site and see if I can find the info you have mentioned thank you very much for the reply
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    You definitely need the cable attached to do the indexing!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Chunkers1980
    Chunkers1980 Posts: 8,035
    Chains should really be lasting longer than a month if the bike was new (YMMV of course), or the bike may be new to you, but if that is the case then you may need a new cassette too.
  • I used this video to adjust up mine the other day, not done it before and found it pretty simple to follow.

    http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=UH43OCmArUw
  • iwilldoit
    iwilldoit Posts: 710
    Chains should really be lasting longer than a month if the bike was new (YMMV of course), or the bike may be new to you, but if that is the case then you may need a new cassette too.

    Hi Yes the bike is new to me it's around 9 months old, I read on the internet about measuring 12 links and it should be 12" if it's 1/16 over it needs a new chain and is it's 1/8" over new chain and cassette, it's a fraction under a 1/16" that's why I have gone for a new chain.
  • iwilldoit
    iwilldoit Posts: 710
    Bushy88 wrote:
    I used this video to adjust up mine the other day, not done it before and found it pretty simple to follow.

    http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=UH43OCmArUw

    Thanks for the link that's the one I have been watching, I haven't really had anything to do with MTB until a month a go, but watching that clip I completely re did my sons Giant XTR with rapid fire shifters ,Alivio brakes and all new cables, might be a small thing to most people but I was well chuffed the gears were in a hell of a mess.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    iwilldoit wrote:
    Chains should really be lasting longer than a month if the bike was new (YMMV of course), or the bike may be new to you, but if that is the case then you may need a new cassette too.

    Hi Yes the bike is new to me it's around 9 months old, I read on the internet about measuring 12 links and it should be 12" if it's 1/16 over it needs a new chain and is it's 1/8" over new chain and cassette, it's a fraction under a 1/16" that's why I have gone for a new chain.
    Don't believe everything you read, or you'll be really poor. I believe somewhere on the internet is an actual, real picture of bigfoot.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

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    Parktools
  • iwilldoit
    iwilldoit Posts: 710
    cooldad wrote:
    iwilldoit wrote:
    Chains should really be lasting longer than a month if the bike was new (YMMV of course), or the bike may be new to you, but if that is the case then you may need a new cassette too.

    Hi Yes the bike is new to me it's around 9 months old, I read on the internet about measuring 12 links and it should be 12" if it's 1/16 over it needs a new chain and is it's 1/8" over new chain and cassette, it's a fraction under a 1/16" that's why I have gone for a new chain.
    Don't believe everything you read, or you'll be really poor. I believe somewhere on the internet is an actual, real picture of bigfoot.

    Hi
    What's the best way to know when a chain needs replacing?
  • Chunkers1980
    Chunkers1980 Posts: 8,035
    Using the correct tool. Even then there's a school of thought which says change the lot when when it is all completely buggered
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Either change the chain often (use a gauge, they are only pennies), or wait until the whole lot has worn and creates a problem!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    The Rookie wrote:
    Either change the chain often (use a gauge, they are only pennies), or wait until the whole lot has worn and creates a problem!
    The latter. Chain wear gauges were invented by chain companies to sell chains. IMHO.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Or use 3 chains, rotate through them as everything else wheres, that way the cassette and rings last even longer, common trick for high mileage road cyclists (not roadies as such).
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.