Shortening steerer tube
TomTheHairyBiker
Posts: 22
Good evening all,
I have just bought some new rockshox SID's for my cotic soul frame that i am slowly putting together. As this is my first build, this is all new to me, but from what i can see, the steerer tube seems far too long and i want to know if its is possible to shorten it, and if so, is it something that my LBS can do?
regards,
Tom
I have just bought some new rockshox SID's for my cotic soul frame that i am slowly putting together. As this is my first build, this is all new to me, but from what i can see, the steerer tube seems far too long and i want to know if its is possible to shorten it, and if so, is it something that my LBS can do?
regards,
Tom
0
Comments
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Tom,
Aye, your LBS will do it, it's not complex, it is very literally a matter of a bit of measurement and cutting the top off it, just be sure you get the right level before you get it chopped, take more off, can't put it back on
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Yep measure twice, cut once. And measure again just in case.
The just use a hacksaw. It doesn't have to be a perfect cut as nothing touches the top of the steerer.I don't do smileys.
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Parktools0 -
The steerer tube needs to be 2-3mm lower than the top of the stem so the top cap doesn't foul the steerer. If in doubt cut it longer than you need and use a couple of spacers above the stem until you know for definite at what height you will want your stem and bars.
Also, if you are using spacers between the headtube and stem don't forget to take them into account. I measured about 3 times, almost started to cut then measured again......then cut.0 -
Might be worth keeping it at the length for a bit, and experimenting with spacers to see exactly where you want the stem. What seems perfectly fine when sat in the shop, might be massively different after several hours in the saddle. Just an idea 0
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A hacksaw is far too much effort, use a Dremel and leave enough steerer for some 5mm or 10mm spacers.Current:
NukeProof Mega FR 2012
Cube NuRoad 2018
Previous:
2015 Genesis CdF 10, 2014 Cube Hyde Race, 2012 NS Traffic, 2007 Specialized SX Trail, 2005 Specialized Demo 80 -
CitizenLee wrote:A hacksaw is far too much effort, use a Dremel and leave enough steerer for some 5mm or 10mm spacers.
Yes its definitely best to go and buy a dremmel for a 5 minute job with a hacksaw - simply draw the line you want on the tube, put tape either side of it as a guide for the saw and clamp the lowers in a workmate (lowers not uppers!) then cut - takes no time with steel or ali steerers.Closet jockey wheel pimp whore.0 -
If you want to do it alone, measure, measure again, and measure again, then measure one more time.
I like to put the fork into the frame as if i were building the bike, put the stem and spacer combo i want, then mark where the top of the stem is on the steerer tube, then i measure a centimetre down from the line and cut.
File the edges of the steerer tube very lightly on the edge where youve cut as it could score the inside of your stem or make it a bit harder when youre putting it on.0 -
paul.skibum wrote:CitizenLee wrote:A hacksaw is far too much effort, use a Dremel and leave enough steerer for some 5mm or 10mm spacers.
Yes its definitely best to go and buy a dremmel for a 5 minute job with a hacksaw
No need to be an ar*e 8)
Everyone should own a Dremel as they have so many bike related uses... cutting steerers, bars, seat posts, grinding down rough bits, polishing things, drilling out stuck bolts etc etc.Current:
NukeProof Mega FR 2012
Cube NuRoad 2018
Previous:
2015 Genesis CdF 10, 2014 Cube Hyde Race, 2012 NS Traffic, 2007 Specialized SX Trail, 2005 Specialized Demo 80 -
GT-Arrowhead wrote:If you want to do it alone, measure, measure again, and measure again, then measure one more time.
I like to put the fork into the frame as if i were building the bike, put the stem and spacer combo i want, then mark where the top of the stem is on the steerer tube, then i measure a centimetre down from the line and cut.
File the edges of the steerer tube very lightly on the edge where youve cut as it could score the inside of your stem or make it a bit harder when youre putting it on.
I'd say a cm is too much. You want the top of the steerer to be about 3mm below the top of the stem (or any spacers above the stem) when you have the bike set-up.
Good idea to cut it a bit 'overlength' first and use spacers above the stem until you are sure of your set-up.
One other thing - do your SIDS have a carbon steerer tube? If so perhaps best to get the LBS to do it0 -
CitizenLee wrote:paul.skibum wrote:CitizenLee wrote:A hacksaw is far too much effort, use a Dremel and leave enough steerer for some 5mm or 10mm spacers.
Yes its definitely best to go and buy a dremmel for a 5 minute job with a hacksaw
No need to be an ar*e 8)
Everyone should own a Dremel as they have so many bike related uses... cutting steerers, bars, seat posts, grinding down rough bits, polishing things, drilling out stuck bolts etc etc.
Don't think he was being as you say.
Nothing you list can't be done with a hacksaw, elbow grease or a standard drill, so no need at all for a Dremel if you don't have one.0 -
I used a plasma cutter to do mine for no other reason than I'm a bloke.
If you don't happen to have a plasma cutter then I'd go with a large hacksaw. Get a workmate or vice or strong clamp to your best dining table and saw it off nice and neat. File off the yogies and away you go.
Oh, and measure twice*, cut once.
*or thrice if a/ its an expensive fork b/ you're not confident in your ability to measure to 2-3mm with a tape.Advocate of disc brakes.0 -
A pipe clamp is also useful for getting a straight edge to cut against... cost next to nothing at your local DIY store. Or you could shell out for a steerer cutting guide but they are costly if you are only going to do one set of forks.0
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CitizenLee wrote:Everyone should own a Dremel as they have so many bike related uses... cutting steerers, bars, seat posts, grinding down rough bits, polishing things, drilling out stuck bolts etc etc.
Removing ugly pie dishes in seconds.
Pipe cutter's another option for a nice even, accurate cut on steerer tubes or handlebars.0 -
I just use a pipe cutter, only cost about £6 at a trade fair, and i've used it loads. Small twist of the tensioner every 2 turns and cuts really neat, without damaging the cutting wheel.0
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Chunkers1980 wrote:CitizenLee wrote:paul.skibum wrote:CitizenLee wrote:A hacksaw is far too much effort, use a Dremel and leave enough steerer for some 5mm or 10mm spacers.
Yes its definitely best to go and buy a dremmel for a 5 minute job with a hacksaw
No need to be an ar*e 8)
Everyone should own a Dremel as they have so many bike related uses... cutting steerers, bars, seat posts, grinding down rough bits, polishing things, drilling out stuck bolts etc etc.
Don't think he was being as you say.
Nothing you list can't be done with a hacksaw, elbow grease or a standard drill, so no need at all for a Dremel if you don't have one.
It was a suggestion rather than instruction Current:
NukeProof Mega FR 2012
Cube NuRoad 2018
Previous:
2015 Genesis CdF 10, 2014 Cube Hyde Race, 2012 NS Traffic, 2007 Specialized SX Trail, 2005 Specialized Demo 80 -
And, you don't need a measuring tape or ruler either.
Install the forks into the frame including headset parts, spacers and stem on a dry run.
Make a mark on the steerer tube at the very top of the stem stack, remove the forks from the frame, and cut 3 to 5mm below that mark.
Since it's a dry run, prior to cutting, it will give you the opportunity to play around with the handlebar height (by adding or removing spacers from the stack). Cut the steerer tube for handlebar height ride comfort and not because you only have a limited number of spacers - spacers are cheap and easy to come by.
If you intend to re-use the current star fangled nut (sfn), then on the dry run prior to cutting, attach the wheels (with pumped up tyres). Support the bike by gripping the front wheel between your knees whilst knocking the sfn further down into the steerer tube with a metal rod (or similar) and hammer - use the rod as a depth gauge. Apply each hammer blow with its handle pointing 12, 3, 6, 9 O'clock respectively to ensure that the sfn goes in straight.
Protect the forks, especially the stanchions, with an old rag or towel during cutting.
Cut the steerer with a hacksaw fitted with a fine-tooth blade designed for cutting metal. Start slow, guide the blade with a thumb against the side of it. Hold the hacksaw with the index finger pointing forwards in order to support the hacksaw through the cutting strokes.
Finish off with a file or sandpaper in order to deburr the steerer tube, the outer edge being the most important bit.
If you don't have a file or sandpaper, then simply go outside and look for a rough hard surface such as a paving slab to use as a whetstone.0
