Converting Rockrider 8.1 to commuter

MonkFunk
MonkFunk Posts: 91
edited September 2013 in Commuting general
I've recently got a new job which is now within commuting distance (11 miles each way) and I have also recently bought my first full suspension bike leaving my Rockrider 8.1 free to use as a potential commuter bike.

I appreciate that it may not be the perfect commuter if buying from scratch but since I have it already I am willing to accept that and make some changes to make it as suitable as possible. I would also like to keep the changes relatively minor so that I can still reasonably easily convert it back for MTB duties or going out on off-road family rides at weekends. I was therefore thinking of simply locking out the fork and putting slick(er) tyres and mudguards on it.

With the tyres, I am looking at the following:

Schwalbe City Jet 1.95
Schwalbe City Jet 1.5
Continental Travel Contacts 1.75
Continental Ultra Gatorskins 1.125

Firstly, are all of these suitable and will they fit the rim? Which would people recommend for a good mix of comfort, low rolling resistance and puncture resistance?

Any recommendations for mudguards that will fit the Rockrider and will be suitable for both commuting and MTB?

Thanks

Comments

  • I use Conti Sports Contacts (1.6 I think). No thin commuter tyre will be as comfortable as a big fat knobbly tyre but they are a hell of a lot faster.
    Used to have Gators. The downside with them was that they were a b*gger to get on - that's how I developed my thumbs of steel. On the plus side I only had 2 punctures in about 2500 miles.

    As for guards, I would go for something like a crud catcher. Easy to fit and easy to adjust.
    2007 Felt Q720 (the ratbike)
    2012 Cube Ltd SL (the hardtail XC 26er)
    2014 Lapierre Zesty TR 329 (the full-sus 29er)
  • flipp
    flipp Posts: 52
    I have schwalbe speed cruisers on mine ,tried city jets a friend had which were ok but didn't like the way they felt when cornering due to what seemed like a sharp profile,whereas the cruisers have a rounder profile. fingers crossed they have so far only seen the punct***** fairy once in two years of use on roughly 80 miles a week,as for mudguards sks any day.
  • Initialised
    Initialised Posts: 3,047
    I ride a rigid Giant MTB off of the 90s as a commuter so here's how I commuterified it:

    Gearing 48-36-26 x7(it's that old) 11-28

    Ergon Grips (GC2) for extra positions on the bars when hands go numb.

    I have a Conti Sport Contact on the back and Gatorskin on the front. Happened that way by accident, large bit of glass destroyed my rear Gator. It feels more stable than having Gators front and rear. So yeah, 1.6 Contacts are OK. But it's had it's fair share of punctures so consider something from Scwalbe with better resistance. You could even try the 1.1 Grand Prix MTB. My front Gator only let me down with pinch flats, so that's more me letting it down.

    For Guards I use SKS Velo Mountain 65 so that any roadie I pass can read Mountain in big letters on the rear mudguard.

    Alternatively many disc MTBs can fit cross disc 700c wheels with slicks and guards. The outer diameter of a 26" with a 2.35 compared to a 700c with 28s are both about the same. This is a really easy way to swap from mud plugger to commuter.
    I used to just ride my bike to work but now I find myself going out looking for bigger and bigger hills.
  • Big_Paul
    Big_Paul Posts: 277
    I have spare wheels for my Rockrider 5.3 and I have Schwalbe Kojak 2.0 on them, in hindsight, I should have bought something a bit narrower as they are still a bit draggy even with 70psi in them. Superb grip though and surprising good even in the wet.
    Disc Trucker
    Kona Ute
    Rockrider 8.1
    Evil Resident
    Day 01 Disc
    Viking Derwent Tandem
    Planet X London Road
  • sigorman85
    sigorman85 Posts: 2,536
    eBay city jets with tubes 26 pound can't go wrong
    When i die I just hope the wife doesn't sell my stuff for what I told her I paid for it other wise someone will be getting a mega deal!!!


    De rosa superking 888 di2
  • Thanks for the comments. I'll look into those suggestions. I hadn't thought about bar ends or anything and that seems like it could be a useful consideration too.

    Cheers
  • Schwalbe city jets 1.5 are spot on for urban commutes, quick running, good puncture resistance and fairly cheap- i got a pair on ebay (new) for 20 quid. Nice and quiet too, unlike chunky mtb tyres! i often commute 16 miles each way on these fitted to a specialized hardrock, makes the bike more like a hybrid.
  • passout
    passout Posts: 4,425
    What you suggest will be fine. I tend to get my 26inch commuter tyres from spa cycles - cheap & good service. City Jets for a tenner here for eg: http://www.spacycles.co.uk/products.php ... b0s122p757
    Although I tend to use these http://www.spacycles.co.uk/products.php ... 2b0s142p31 because they are the most puncture proof tyres you can get that still work OK - also the grip is fine & they last ages. I've had these years without a single puncture; which is important if you are trying to get to work on time. They are weighty but roll well when up to speed, you only notice it when trying to accelerate fast or really slow climbs. There is a Durano version as well I think, bit lighter & more expensive. I'd go 1.5- 1.95 myself - bit of grip/comfort but still plenty fast enough. A recent bought some spiked 'winters' from Spa ready for the snow & ice by the way - £30 each. Tyre choice is by far the main thing to consider when riding a MTB on road.

    I'd also consider mudgurds. Crud ones are OK but you might be able to fit something fuller? You also need to decide whether to go rack or backpack. Alot of people prefer racks but I use a backpack - the hi viz back pack covers are worth having. Splash out on decent lights too if you don't have any.

    I'd wear out the gears before replacing with some higher ratios - what you have will be fine although you will only use half your gears most likely. If you decide to keep the bike longer term I might consider some rigid forks - probably steel from On One or Salsa or alu from Exotic. But locked out forks will do the job.
    'Happiness serves hardly any other purpose than to make unhappiness possible' Marcel Proust.
  • Initialised
    Initialised Posts: 3,047
    Agree on waiting for the parts to wear out but 48T is much better for a commuter than the typical 44T on an MTB. If you find your self routinely spinning out in the top gear it's worth it.
    I used to just ride my bike to work but now I find myself going out looking for bigger and bigger hills.
  • anga
    anga Posts: 25
    Does the 8.1 have any eyelets near the rear dropouts?
    Are the seatstay bridge and chainstay bridge drilled for attaching fender bolts?
    Thanks
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Unlikley to spin out a 42/44T on the level in top gear (11T) I would think, downhill maybe but I haven't spun out my 46/11 despite logging a 45mph.

    Go for 1.5" road slicks.

    My commuter is a Hybrid frame but mostly fitted with MTB finishing kit, 26x1.5" tyres, rigid forks and I run no spacsers, flipped stem and flat bars to get the front end down a bit.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • The Conti' travel contacts are fantastic, very fast & never had a puncture with them. Bar ends make an excellent addition for road use too.

    I've roadised my Ridgeback MX6. I also locked the forks out & slammed the stem. Believe it or not, it's faster, more stable & more comfortable than my Triban 5 roadie!!! (I daren't even utter that on the road forum, as we all know it's impossible!!) :wink:
    B'TWIN Triban 5A
    Ridgeback MX6