Hope cassette body

tarbot18
tarbot18 Posts: 531
edited July 2013 in MTB workshop & tech
Hi Halfords have finally got my hope and stans crest rear wheel in after a month of waiting, but after reading a comment on these forums im a little concerned about putting the standard basic sram cassette back on.

Someone on here made a comment about cheap cassette's that as they are made of steel they will kill the alloy hope cassette body and its best to get an alloy cassette ie xt to match.

True, bollo@ks or none of the above ?

I could do without forking out £40 for another cassette at the mo with a holiday around the corner :roll: cheers.
The family that rides together stays together !

Boardman Comp 29er 2013

Whyte T129s 2014 viewtopic.php?f=10017&t=12965414&p=18823801&hilit=whyte+t129s#p18823801

Road Scott speedster s50 2011

Comments

  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    yes they cut into the freebody you should use a cassette where the rings are on a carrier.

    notr this is for the alloy freebody (not the steel one)
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • tarbot18
    tarbot18 Posts: 531
    cheers nick , this is the hope pro2 evo rear hub i assume this is alloy , looks like an xt from crc they doing them for £41 at the mo doh
    The family that rides together stays together !

    Boardman Comp 29er 2013

    Whyte T129s 2014 viewtopic.php?f=10017&t=12965414&p=18823801&hilit=whyte+t129s#p18823801

    Road Scott speedster s50 2011
  • njee20
    njee20 Posts: 9,613
    It's far less of an issue than people think IMO, yes they dig in a bit, but it's not the end of the world. I use a cheap cassette on my alu freehub on my winter road bike, it doesn't really make much difference. The small sprockets dig in anyway on an XT etc cassette.

    Wouldn't worry too much if you're not planning to replace your transmission currently.
  • tarbot18
    tarbot18 Posts: 531
    cheers njee ill put the original back on for a month or 2 then till i have some spare dosh then probably get an slx one for £32 knocks a good chunk of weight too which is always good.
    The family that rides together stays together !

    Boardman Comp 29er 2013

    Whyte T129s 2014 viewtopic.php?f=10017&t=12965414&p=18823801&hilit=whyte+t129s#p18823801

    Road Scott speedster s50 2011
  • *AJ*
    *AJ* Posts: 1,080
    I've ran a cheap 11-25T cassette on my hope pro2 for the last year or so, not had any issues, but I have just bought a new Cassette now I'm riding more trails than DH, I went with an 11-34T XT because CRC have them cheap at the mo as you have seen!

    I'm guessing my free hub will be chewed up a bit, but I'm hoping to be able to just fit the XT one without having to replace it! Can anybody see why I wouldn't be able too?...
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    I've seen alu hubs rip right through all the splines with cheap cassettes. A lot will depend on your weight and how you mash the gears though.

    File any edges down, and fit the XT.
  • Penylope
    Penylope Posts: 320
    Based on personal experience, so long as weight isn't much of an issue you would be better off fitting your current cassette and using that. Then, when funds allow, replace the (worn) freehub with a steel one.
    That way you can fit any cassette you feel like when they wear out, which should be more often than the freehub itself.
    I have a 9spd XT cassette on my ht and the smaller (individual) rings have eaten into the ally freehub body already!
    MTB's, SC Blur LTc & Cotic Soul (26" definitely aint dead!).
    Other, Genesis Croix De Fer
  • tarbot18
    tarbot18 Posts: 531
    Well im not a race wippet im 14st and tend to put a lot of power through my crank and and im heavy with the gears doh ive put the original cassette back but im gonna put an xt or slx one on next month when funds allow.

    On a side note i nearly threw through the wheel through a window last night after fighting for 2 hours to get a tyre on !
    I know ideally crest rims are for tubeless but apparently they do take take tubes as i battled one onto my front , couldnt sort the back one last night but after looking at youtube for tips gonna have another go tonight or is it worth turning to the dark site and considering going tubeless :-\
    I worry that when i get a puncture in the middle of nowhere ill be there for hours trying to fix the puncture with tubes ?
    The family that rides together stays together !

    Boardman Comp 29er 2013

    Whyte T129s 2014 viewtopic.php?f=10017&t=12965414&p=18823801&hilit=whyte+t129s#p18823801

    Road Scott speedster s50 2011
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    1/ Make sure you push the part of the bead already on the rim into the well in the middle - make sure the tube isn't inflated enough to stop this happening
    2/ NEVER finish putting it on opposite the valve as the bead will never go into the well in the rim where the valve is in the way, try and finish at 90 degrees to the valve,
    3/ Never tighten the retaining locknut on the valve (by all means put it on loosely) until the tyre is on the rim as it pulls the valve/tube outwards and makes it harder.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • tarbot18
    tarbot18 Posts: 531
    Cheers mr beginner, im gonna try some of those tips tonight, im still a bit worried about punctures in the middle of nowhere as i tend to do 30 or 40 milers quite often on my 29er but im hoping the tyres may loosen up a bit once on .

    I suppose the only way ill find out is when i get my first puncture and go from there .
    The family that rides together stays together !

    Boardman Comp 29er 2013

    Whyte T129s 2014 viewtopic.php?f=10017&t=12965414&p=18823801&hilit=whyte+t129s#p18823801

    Road Scott speedster s50 2011
  • *AJ*
    *AJ* Posts: 1,080
    18 months use with a cheapo Tiagra cassette on a hope alloy freehub body, weighing 16 stone, and being a pedal masher and this was the damage...

    C0703A35-85B3-428C-AFEF-91CDF730DF78-13571-000004BBB4EF7578.jpg

    Cassette slid off easily!

    Maybe I was just lucky?
  • lochussie
    lochussie Posts: 276
    Even with expensive cassettes, the few single sprockets dig into the Hope alloy freehub. I replaced mine with the steel one, planning to save money by using cheap Deore cassettes. Six months of normal riding in and it's pretty cut up already. Not impressed.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Never cut up a steel one at all....you sure it is steel?
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • *AJ*
    *AJ* Posts: 1,080
    Never cut up a steel one at all....you sure it is steel?

    This.

    My old hope sport hub has no marks, dents or anything in it after years and years of use!
  • njee20
    njee20 Posts: 9,613
    Steel ones definitely shouldn't mark much at all, sounds like it wasn't actually steel!
  • lochussie
    lochussie Posts: 276
    It was certainly sold to me as steel and was much heavier than the one that I took off. I'll look more closely next time the cassette is off.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Magnet should do it!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.