Rear wheel movement!

sprite1275
sprite1275 Posts: 157
edited April 2013 in MTB workshop & tech
Ive got some new superstar evo switch hubs with flow rims. All fine but just a little concerned that today i had to take the rear off as i had a puncture. After i refitted the wheel, for some reason the rotor wasn't in the center of the caliper anymore but closer to the side so had to re shim the caliper.

All was fine after that and i rode to work and back on it, But after reading cubecrazy's post on his collapsing superstar hub its got me a little concerned. Not sure why all of a sudden the wheel would be a mil or so out, Also when i was peddling hard standing up with the bike going side to side, i was doing a down stroke with my left peddle so had the bike banked to the right my tyre slightly rubbed the chainstay.

never had that before but then again it might be the first time i gave it some like that since having the new wheels. If i push on the rim though from the side it will move about 5mm with force. Is this about right?

Just thought id ask the question after seeing cubes post as id sooner get the wheels checked by an lbs before something fails, Or am i being too cautious :?

Comments

  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Presumably there is a mechanism for adjustment.
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  • ddraver
    ddraver Posts: 26,384
    To be honest the Brake thing sounds like you didnt quite have it square in the dropouts when you adjusted it, easy to do...

    The second thin gsounds wierd...maybe worth giving it a good look over or popping in to the LBS (but you won't be popular with a superstar wheel) just for piece of mind
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  • sprite1275
    sprite1275 Posts: 157
    cooldad wrote:
    Presumably there is a mechanism for adjustment.

    Adjustment of what ?
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    The bearings. No idea how SS wheels work, but I would assume there's some way of preloading/tightening/adjusting the bearings.
    Cone and cup are obvious with locknuts and my Fulcrums with cartridge bearings have a small collar to preload the bearings. Every now and then it needs a tweak. Same symptom - little bit of side to side movement.
    Bear in mind that 5mm at the rim is probably only half a mm at the hub.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • sprite1275
    sprite1275 Posts: 157
    ddraver wrote:
    To be honest the Brake thing sounds like you didnt quite have it square in the dropouts when you adjusted it, easy to do...

    The second thin gsounds wierd...maybe worth giving it a good look over or popping in to the LBS (but you won't be popular with a superstar wheel) just for piece of mind

    You might be right with the drop outs. I'm thinking the wheel might not of been in the drop outs properly the first time as I made sure the wheel was properly in this time.

    Might just pop into an lbs tomoz if I get time.
  • sprite1275
    sprite1275 Posts: 157
    cooldad wrote:
    The bearings. No idea how SS wheels work, but I would assume there's some way of preloading/tightening/adjusting the bearings.
    Cone and cup are obvious with locknuts and my Fulcrums with cartridge bearings have a small collar to preload the bearings. Every now and then it needs a tweak. Same symptom - little bit of side to side movement.
    Bear in mind that 5mm at the rim is probably only half a mm at the hub.

    Oh right. I'm not up on how all the bearing thing works, I've got some researching to do I think

    The 5mm play in the rim is just me pushing it with force with my thumb whilst gripping the seat stay with my hand if you know what I mean. The hub ain't moving so its just the play in the spokes. But is there meant to be that much play or do the spokes need tightening?
  • bernie1973
    bernie1973 Posts: 86
    A new wheel simply should not move 5mm laterally at either the rim or the hub. I'd contact Superstars and see what they suggest.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    No evidence at all that cubecrazy's hub collapsed as he appears to have done nothing to find out what caused some brake rub apart from had a rant.

    Different superstar hubs, I have Superlegera and other than massive bearing failure there would be no way for mine to have the problem CC had.

    Yours could be simple adjustment (cone spanner or allen key) or bearing failure, or a number of less likley issues, I'd check the bearing preload is right first!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.

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