problem fitting shifters/brakes on to new bars: RESOLVED!
Mrtennis
Posts: 153
I bought some Easton EC90 SL bars and was all excited about fitting them. But when I started to tighten the brake and gear shifters they just weren't tight enough. The clamp went as tight as it would go but they still weren't tight on the bars - by pressing the shifters to change gear it was making the shifter move and therefore moving the brake lever too.
I thought maybe you were supposed to use shims if the clamps are too big for the bars but I called my LBS and they said that shouldn't be the case.
Obviously with the bars being carbon (the first time I have used anything carbon) I was worried about overtightening any of the parts (shifters, brakes, stem) but as I was tightening the shifter and brake bolts it just wasn't doing anything. Yes they got tighter but as soon as I went to change gear they would move out of place.
I haven't bought a torque wrench but I think I might have to. From being worried that I am going to damage the new bars I am dont think I am tightening the bolts enough! I have done the stem fairly tight although if I put the brakes on and try rotating the bars within the stem I can do, so again I'm not sure if these bolts are tight enough either.
Also, the stem is a Ritchey WCS 4-axis (not carbon) but that also says to tighten the bolts connecting it to the steerer tube losesly too. How come if it's not a carbon stem?
Advice appreciated
I thought maybe you were supposed to use shims if the clamps are too big for the bars but I called my LBS and they said that shouldn't be the case.
Obviously with the bars being carbon (the first time I have used anything carbon) I was worried about overtightening any of the parts (shifters, brakes, stem) but as I was tightening the shifter and brake bolts it just wasn't doing anything. Yes they got tighter but as soon as I went to change gear they would move out of place.
I haven't bought a torque wrench but I think I might have to. From being worried that I am going to damage the new bars I am dont think I am tightening the bolts enough! I have done the stem fairly tight although if I put the brakes on and try rotating the bars within the stem I can do, so again I'm not sure if these bolts are tight enough either.
Also, the stem is a Ritchey WCS 4-axis (not carbon) but that also says to tighten the bolts connecting it to the steerer tube losesly too. How come if it's not a carbon stem?
Advice appreciated
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Comments
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Not sure how you tighten a bolt loosely? You tighten to the specified torque, frequantly 6nm.
As for the controls, you need to make some basic checks, are the clamps closing up so the bolt can't tighten them anymore? What torque are you using?
All controls/control part of the bars are normally 22.2mm, never had an issue with putting controls on either of my CF bars.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
Yes I don't think I've used the right words to describe the problem, as you are confused in your first sentence. But you've got it spot in the BOLD bit. The clamp doesn't seem to go any tighter yet the controls still move on the bars. They dont swing about freely, but they move when I press the shifters to change gear.The Beginner wrote:Not sure how you tighten a bolt loosely? You tighten to the specified torque, frequantly 6nm.
As for the controls, you need to make some basic checks, are the clamps closing up so the bolt can't tighten them anymore? What torque are you using?
All controls/control part of the bars are normally 22.2mm, never had an issue with putting controls on either of my CF bars.
I think they are 22.2mm yes.
I wondered if I had put them on the wrong place on the bar - I am used to having the brakes and shifters right up to grips. Wasn't sure if I had to move the controls further to the stem where the bar seems to be thicker. Before trying it though I just looked on the internet at photos people had posted and it seems people have them the same as me, as well as closer to the stem, so don't think I'm doing anything wrong there.
I meant tighten the stem/steerer bolts losely as in, on the stem it says 5nm max, which isn't a lot I dont think?0 -
Very bizarre, should nip up nicely right next to the grip, post a piccy?0
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But you've got it spot in the BOLD bit. The clamp doesn't seem to go any tighter yet the controls still move on the bars. [/quote]Mrtennis wrote:As for the controls, you need to make some basic checks, are the clamps closing up so the bolt can't tighten them anymore?
As you haven't got it...are the two ends of the clamp that would normally be 2-3mm apart closing up (touching)? as once that happens tightening the bolt has no further effect.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
The Beginner wrote:As for the controls, you need to make some basic checks, are the clamps closing up so the bolt can't tighten them anymore?Mrtennis wrote:But you've got it spot in the BOLD bit. The clamp doesn't seem to go any tighter yet the controls still move on the bars.
The clamp seems to have closed fully, there is no longer a 2-3mm gap. Yet it doesn't seem to be tight on the barThe Beginner wrote:As you haven't got it...are the two ends of the clamp that would normally be 2-3mm apart closing up (touching)? as once that happens tightening the bolt has no further effect.0 -
Both sides or are the clamps single bolt?I don't do smileys.
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Parktools0 -
I think you should clamp it.0
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Good oneChunkers1980 wrote:I think you should clamp it.0 -
can't really understand how this is happening. maybe try cleaning the inner surface of the clamps, some dirt could be stopping it from gripping the bars properly.0
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Photo showing the clamp closed up....it should never happen, and once it has you'll never get the controls to clamp to the bars as tightening the bolt further doesn't reduce it's 'size' any further.
Can you ACCURATELY measure the bar, either diameter or the circumference using a tape measure (then divide by 3.14 to get diameter).
Genuine Easton or from the far east off ebay?Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
This is what I am starting to wonder. Off ebay yes but from a private seller in Cumbria! I am wondering though if maybe he bought it from the far east or something and has decided to get rid! I was in contact with him the whole time during the sale though and he was very very helpful so I would be surprised if it is fake. I think I will have to measure. What circumference should it be?The Beginner wrote:Photo showing the clamp closed up....it should never happen, and once it has you'll never get the controls to clamp to the bars as tightening the bolt further doesn't reduce it's 'size' any further.
Can you ACCURATELY measure the bar, either diameter or the circumference using a tape measure (then divide by 3.14 to get diameter).
Genuine Easton or from the far east off ebay?
I need to go to my LBS for a spacer for the new stem as it's shorter than my last one so I might take the bike with me. But I will probably try measuring it first0 -
Worst case wrap some insulating tape round the bars to increase the diameter!The Beginner wrote:All controls/control part of the bars are normally 22.2mmCurrently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
Yes I could probably quite easily get them to fit with something like that but if they're not genuine do I want to be using them? Don't want them snapping when I'm riding the bike!The Beginner wrote:
Worst case wrap some insulating tape round the bars to increase the diameter!The Beginner wrote:All controls/control part of the bars are normally 22.2mm
Is that 22.2mm diameter or circumference?0 -
I wouldn't buy second hand bars full stop.0
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The Beginner wrote:Genuine Easton or from the far east off ebay?
The bars did actually have a bar code sticker on them. It's at the end of the bar where the grip is installed. Ithink you can download bar code scanner apps for mobile phones cant you?Chunkers1980 wrote:I wouldn't buy second hand bars full stop.
Maybe I will try scanning it and see what comes up. Would be surprised if it's fake and they've gone to the effort of sticking a bar code on it0 -
Just contacted the guy I bought them from and he said he was using them no problem and if I can't get them working then I can send them back for a refund. So doesn't seem to be anything dodgy going on there. Must be me doing something really stupid! Off to the LBS I go!0
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Ok so I got I've got it sorted. A bit of a cross between a stupid mistake and being too careful.
By sight it certainly looked as though the control clamps were completely closed, and to turn the bolts anymore it felt (or atleast to me) like I was having to use a lot of force.
So I took it to my LBS and the mechanic lent me a torque key so I could get a feel of how tight the bolts had to go. WOW! All the talk on the internet about being careful of how tight you do carbon parts really scared me! I was surprised at how tight the bolts actually had to be in the end to reach 5nm!
So sorry to disappoint you chunkers but I've got it sorted for free and I'm now enjoying my as new £35 XC90's. You have fun paying full price for all your parts.
I think I'll get one of those torque keys myself too, much cheaper than a torque wrench!0 -
I've got some Commencal Nuts bars which cost 5 quid new AM strong and very stiff, just the job.
Surprising your command of tools is poor with you being a massive one.
Anyhow controls should only be as tight to just not slip in use, not necessarily 5nm or whatever0
