New chain needed

Robert72
Robert72 Posts: 84
edited January 2013 in Workshop
My chain is stretched and I need a new one but don't know where to start. I have a Cube Attempt, 10 speed and a triple on the front with shimano 105. Can anyone suggest a decent make and where to buy? Reading some posts its seems better to have a chain with a split link, does that come with all chains?

Comments

  • Yossie
    Yossie Posts: 2,600
    I know a few of us use KMC chains (I get mine from CRC but other internet suppliers exist) - last well, look good, shift really nice and come with the famous KMC split link that is really good.

    Not all chains come with a KMC/SRAM style split link (I don't think that Shimano do, but I could be wrong) and some (like the SRAM ones I believe) are only a use once/throw away job whereas the KMC one you can use a few times - handy to keep as a spare in your back pocket should your chain snap.

    The ones on my commuter/winter trainer last about 18 months at a pop (cleaned, decreased and oiled once a week), and at £12 odd for 9 speeed I think that's pretty good value. 10 speed are a little bit more expensive though.

    You may also need a new cassette if your stretched chain has worn the cassette down - worth bearing in mind when putting the order in.

    HTH

    Y
  • thecrofter
    thecrofter Posts: 734
    Pretty much no way you'll get away with only replacing the chain, you'll need a casette too. I've put a split link into my chain, it makes life so much easier for cleaning.....
    You've no won the Big Cup since 1902!
  • g00se
    g00se Posts: 2,221
    thecrofter wrote:
    Pretty much no way you'll get away with only replacing the chain, you'll need a casette too. I've put a split link into my chain, it makes life so much easier for cleaning.....

    Surely it depends on how stretched? If it's under 1/8th inch, then the cassette coul dbe OK?

    http://sheldonbrown.com/chains.html
  • Robert72
    Robert72 Posts: 84
    thanks for the advice, new kmc chain ordered.
  • thecrofter
    thecrofter Posts: 734
    g00se wrote:
    thecrofter wrote:
    Pretty much no way you'll get away with only replacing the chain, you'll need a casette too. I've put a split link into my chain, it makes life so much easier for cleaning.....

    Surely it depends on how stretched? If it's under 1/8th inch, then the cassette coul dbe OK?

    http://sheldonbrown.com/chains.html

    That may well be true but if it's "stretched" less than 1/8th, why is it being changed???? If you're replacing a clearly worn chain it will have worn the cassette. Time will tell but I would fully expect that as the OP stated his chain was stretched if he puts a new chain on the old cassette it will jump. Won't it be fun waiting to find out?
    You've no won the Big Cup since 1902!
  • lef
    lef Posts: 728
    Not true, I've never had to change a cassette after one chain life. If you carry on using it the chance of having to replace the cassette obviously increases.

    If it slips with the new chain then replace, if it doesn't then don't.
  • Yossie
    Yossie Posts: 2,600
    lef wrote:

    If it slips with the new chain then replace, if it doesn't then don't.

    Brilliant, utter, sheer genius. Why didn't we think of that lads?
  • carbonmanx
    carbonmanx Posts: 53
    Ive just checked my chain and its very worn - > 1mm
    Is there a way to visually check if the cassette has had it? and does the same apply to the front rings too, are they likely to be worn?

    First time ive checked my chain using a proper parks tool and was so suprised how knackered the chain is - just goes to show its worth keeping an eye on I guess...

    I happen to have a spare cassette which I was going to stick on my summer wheels, and was thinking of leaving this knackered cassette on the winter wheels, but I dont understand what the impact of having a damaged / worn cassette is?

    Any advise or pointers would be gratefully received :-)
  • sungod
    sungod Posts: 16,601
    if that's 1mm over the usual 12 complete links, that is hardly any wear at all

    chain wear tools can be unreliable, use a ruler...

    with a 12" ruler, measure from one rivet to the rivet closest to 12" away, chain should be under tension when you do this

    if that rivet has just reached 1/16" further than the 12" mark, it's time to fit a new chain

    between 1/16" and 1/8" inch, cassette wear accelerates

    by 1/8" or more the cassette will probably be badly worn by the chain, might as well leave the old chain+cassette in place until they are so far gone that things start slipping or shifting gets poor
    my bike - faster than god's and twice as shiny
  • toasted whippet
    toasted whippet Posts: 49
    Why not just leave the old chain and cassette? I do this for years - no problems. A lot of what you hear is just put about by chain companies trying to get us change every year or 18 months.
  • wishitwasallflat
    wishitwasallflat Posts: 2,927
    toasted whippet wrote:
    Why not just leave the old chain and cassette? I do this for years - no problems. A lot of what you hear is just put about by chain companies trying to get us change every year or 18 months.

    My concern with that would be damage to the chainrings. My current cassette has the third chain on and this time I am planning to let it run until it skips or shifting gets poor and then replace both chain and cassette together. I am sure I read on here of some folk getting four or five chains to a cassette but that seems a bit much to me so have settled on three.
  • carbonmanx
    carbonmanx Posts: 53
    i measured using park tool cc-3.2 which has preset distances of 0.5mm and 0.75mm and mine was longer than that by a fair bit...
    my worry is that the chain will eventually snap, risking my derailleur / rear wheel / my life etc :-)

    presumably a worn chain also wont transfer the power as well either?
    cheers :-)
  • ADIHEAD
    ADIHEAD Posts: 575
    18months! My winter bike kills it's 10sp chain in 3! Sungod's is the definitive post here, can't go wrong with that. Regarding cassette wear, I think you've just got to try it. I swapped out a chain and cassette for a mate a couple of years ago as it was 3 years old and was measuring as totally stretched. Kept the cassette in my garage as it was a Durace and I couldn't bare to chuck it (I know!) Anway, someone asked me if I had any spare cassettes for use on a turbo so I let him have it, but explained it may jump. Apparently it works perfectly and he's been using it for several months now! Equally, I've swapped chains before and the chain's immediately jumped like mad so you've just gotta give it a go;-)
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    carbonmanx wrote:
    i measured using park tool cc-3.2 which has preset distances of 0.5mm and 0.75mm and mine was longer than that by a fair bit...
    my worry is that the chain will eventually snap, risking my derailleur / rear wheel / my life etc :-)

    presumably a worn chain also wont transfer the power as well either?
    cheers :-)

    I thought the 0.5 and 0.75 were % were figures.

    Don't worry about snapping the chain; every broken chain I've ever encountered has been due to a snapped side plate or a badly installed joining pin, nothing to do with wear.

    A worn chain only affects power transfer when it skips, or it's replaced and the new chain skips on the worn cassette.
  • triquin
    triquin Posts: 30
    Chain Wear Indicator

    A worn chain shifts poorly and wears sprockets at an accelerated rate. The CC-3.2 is a “go-no go” gauge designed to accurately indicate when a chain reaches .5% and .75%, the points at which most chain manufacturers suggest replacement. The updated CC-3.2 is longer, more accurate and features permanent measurement markings.

    From the Park Tool website :)

    I always change my chain when the .5% “goes" but the .75% “doesn't ." Far cheaper to change just the chain than both chain and cassette.

Categories