Fitting universal brake cables to bike with drum brakes

Danny1962
Danny1962 Posts: 58
edited November 2012 in The workshop
I fitted new front and rear brake cables to my drum braked Batavus today. It's pretty straightforward, and I won't need to refer to the instructions again. They only come in Dutch. I'm posting this so that anyone else doing the same job, who needs a translation can see it here. I did it via Google, the translation is OK but not totally accurate. However, you will certainly get the jist.

I got the cables from Hollandbikeshop.

Trommelrem kabel achter met draadeind universeel 6269
Trommelrem kabel voor met draadeind universeel 6268

kijk bij de voor of achterremkabel welke binnenkabelnippelen kabeleindopje er in de remgreep gemonteered zijn en monteer zelf als volgt
Look at the front or rear brake inner cable which nippelen cable ein cap in the brake lever and mount gemonteered itself as follows

1. knip de nippel die niet van toepassing is af met een scherpe tang. Niet van toepassing wanneer er 2 binnenkabels bijgeleverd zijn.
1. cut the nipple which is not applicable with a sharp tool. Not apply when there are 2 indoor cables are included.

2. nippel 1 of 2 in remgreep monteren.
2. nipple 1 or 2 in lever assembly.

3. knip de buitenkabel op dezelde lengte als de buitenkabel die vervangen wordt.
3. cut the cable housing just the same length as the outer casing being replaced.

4. indien nodig, dopje nr3 of aluminium dopje nr4 op buitenkabel monteren.
4. if necessary, nr3 cap or aluminum cap nr4 on outer cable assembly.

5. Binnenkabel door buitenkabel steken.
5. Inner cable through casing stabbing.

6. Buitenkabel langs frame naar remnaaf geleiden.
6. Outer casing along frame to conduct brake hub.

7. Bij vaste nok GAZELLE monteer dopje nr 3 en ga naar punt 10.
7. For fixed cam GAZELLE mount cap nr 3 and go to step 10.

8. Nok nr5 of nokje nr5A met het grote gat naar buitenkabel toe monteren.
8. Cam No 5 or tab nr5A with the large hole to the outside cable to mount.

9. Nok nr5 of nokje nr5A in stuitpunt van remplaat steken (voor of achterweil).
9. Ridge nr 5 or cam nr5A in breech point of stabbing brake plate (front or rear weil).

10. PVC ton (nr 6) monteren op draadeind nr 7 indien er geen ton aan remhevel voor or achter weil zit.
10. PVC tonnes (No 6) mounted on threaded end No. 7 if no ton or rear brake lever for weil sitting.

11. Monteer moer (Nr 8 ) op draadeind (nr 7 ) en zorg dat de afstand van moer (nr 8 ) t.o.v. uiteinde draadeind (nr 7 ) over uiteinde binnenkabel en monteer deze in de remhevel (vor of achter weil)
11. Install nut (No. 8 ) on threaded end (no. 7 ) and make sure that the distance from nut (no. 8 ) compared to end stud (No 7 ) on end inner cable and mount the brake lever (vor or behind weil)

12. Kijk of de nippel (nr 1 of 2 ) en de buitenkabel nog goed in de remgrep zitten en trek het uiteinde van de binnenkabel aan.
12. See if the nipple (No. 1 or 2 ) and the outer casing still in the remgrep sit and pull the end of the inner cable.

13. Remhevel (voor of achter weil) iets naar voren drukken en monteer schroefnipel (nr 9 )
13. Brake lever (front or rear weil) slightly forwards and refit schroefnipel (No. 9 )

14. Rem afstellen met moer (nr 8 ).
14. Brake adjustment with nut (No. 8 ).

15. Binnekabel afknippen met scherpe tang 2cm voorbij schroefnippel nr 9.
15. Inside cable cut with sharp pliers 2cm beyond screw nipple No 9.

16. Anti-rafeldopje (nr 10) monteren en vastknipjen met tang.
16. Anti-fraying cap (no. 10) and tighten-cut with pliers.

17. Omdat de kabel universal is, kunnen er onderdelen overblijven.
17. Because the cable is universal, there may be parts remain.

Comments

  • I'm uploading a link to a scan of the instructions and packaging. They are Elvedes cables.
    https://picasaweb.google.com/1100556695 ... zaGykMrzHw

    The principle is really simple, essentially you are using part number 6 (the plastic cylinder) to pull against the arm of the brake, and adjusting it with parts 7 and 8. Part 9 stops the inner cable slipping, and if it comes undone you have a big problem.

    I found it easier to hold the brake arm in the engaged position using a cable tie, tighten everything so I have a sensible range of adjustment available, then snip the cable tie and make the final adjustment under normal spring tension. It's easiest to tighten things slightly too much while the cable tie tie is holding it, then loosen off without the cable tie. Otherwise you are trying to tighten the nut against spring tension.

    Drum brakes are quite rare on bikes in the UK, but I love them. They work in all weathers and are virtually maintenance free. However, they aren't very powerful.
  • In this weather especially drum brakes are great! I really hate that sound of grinding mud in to rims that you get with ordinary brakes.