Advice on buying my first road bike
Burt25
Posts: 117
Hi, this is my first post on here- so go easy on me!
I have decided to take the plunge and buy myself a road bike mainly for weekend rides - nothing too serious, but rather to supplement my running with something a little less impacting on my joints (at 41 I have to think about these things!)
Anyway, having visited all of my local bike shops and trawled the Internet, I think I have narrowed my choices down to one of Cannondales offerings, but I can't decide between the following:
1. Cannondale synapse- seems to fit the bill quite nicely offering a more relaxed geometry, but have read than some riders find it a little bouncy when peddling hard and I'm not sure I really like the look of the 'bent' seat stays.
2. Cannondale CAAD 8 in shimano 105 guise- problem is I don't like the black frame and have my mind set on a white bike!
3. Cannondale CAAD 10- I can stretch to buying a 2012 model, but I'm wondering if the geometry will be a little too aggressive for longer rides? (in my heart this is the one I think I want, but is it going to be too. Us do an out and out racer for a newbie to road bikes?
Would appreciate any advice anyone can offer who may have gone through a similar decision making process.
Thanks
I have decided to take the plunge and buy myself a road bike mainly for weekend rides - nothing too serious, but rather to supplement my running with something a little less impacting on my joints (at 41 I have to think about these things!)
Anyway, having visited all of my local bike shops and trawled the Internet, I think I have narrowed my choices down to one of Cannondales offerings, but I can't decide between the following:
1. Cannondale synapse- seems to fit the bill quite nicely offering a more relaxed geometry, but have read than some riders find it a little bouncy when peddling hard and I'm not sure I really like the look of the 'bent' seat stays.
2. Cannondale CAAD 8 in shimano 105 guise- problem is I don't like the black frame and have my mind set on a white bike!
3. Cannondale CAAD 10- I can stretch to buying a 2012 model, but I'm wondering if the geometry will be a little too aggressive for longer rides? (in my heart this is the one I think I want, but is it going to be too. Us do an out and out racer for a newbie to road bikes?
Would appreciate any advice anyone can offer who may have gone through a similar decision making process.
Thanks
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Comments
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Honestly, I think you're overthinking. When you've ridden a bike in the past, has the geometry been one of your foremost concerns? It's not something I dwell on myself. I wouldn't worry about a bike being 'bouncy', either - this is subjective anyway (it's pure nonsense that a frame has to be stiff as a board) - but most riders, particularly more 'casual' ones will not kick so hard as to cause problematically adverse flex in the frame.
In terms of comfort over distance, I wouldn't worry overly because I wouldn't recommend you buy an out-and-out racer in the first place. These bikes have no concessions to comfort. I think you'd be much better off with something that gives a more upright position and can take larger tyres. (if not full mudguards with eyes)
But I wouldn't recommend you buy anything without trying it first; at which point hopefully you'll get an idea of which is the right bike for you. Happy searching.
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If you are looking for a white bike with relaxed geometry I'd recommend the specialized Roubaix.
They are £12,000. I bought mine last week and 5 rides in I love it. 8)0 -
Phil in Merthyr, you were ripped off!
Hey Burt,
Buying a bike is an emotional decision to a large extent. Buy the bike you want, not what other people think you need. If your a runner and in reasonable shape to start with you will be up to speed in no time. I am also guessing you are going to be reasonably competitive with yourself and would regret buying something less speedy. Go for the CAAD 10 if that is what you have your heart set on.0 -
Have you sat on any of the bikes you mention? If not, why not?
Youre talking about parting with the best part of a £1000, if you were buying a sofa from DFS in one of their never ending sales would you walk in and part with a grand without stting on one?
Would you buy a bed without laying on it?
Would you buy a shjtter without dropping your shreddies and parking your arris on it in B&Q?
No.
So get down the shop, sit on them and see what feels best. And geometry is important, if you plan to spend a few hours on something thats going to stretch you out then make sure it fits, otherwise youll be back on here with another post about numb plums and back ache. If geometry didnt matter we'd still be riding Penny Farthings.0 -
Philinmerthyr wrote:If you are looking for a white bike with relaxed geometry I'd recommend the specialized Roubaix.
They are £12,000. I bought mine last week and 5 rides in I love it. 8)
That one hell of a seat post.....oh sorry its a streetlight....Sensa Giulia 1050 -
Burt - if you like White have you looked at the Giant Defy? cracking alu frame similar to the 'dales and under £1k eveing in Defy1 top spec.
Or can you get a white CAAD *8 tiagra in the right size? very little difference between Tiagra and 105 - you'd not really notice the difference.
I went back to a road back fro the first time in 20 ish years at roughly your age - you soon get used to the riding position again so don't worry too much about the "out and out race" vs "slightly relaxed sportive bike" thing - in truth there isn't much differnce in geometry / riding position. Putting both spacers under the bars on "race" bike put the handlebars in similar position to a sportive bike (ish)
if you want to go stylish Italian white instead of stateside, probably some of these around in your size if you google a bit....
http://www.evanscycles.com/products/bianchi/via-nirone-7-tiagra-compact-2012-road-bike-ec031993Bianchi Infinito CV
Bianchi Via Nirone 7 Ultegra
Brompton S Type
Carrera Vengeance Ultimate Ltd
Gary Fisher Aquila '98
Front half of a Viking Saratoga Tandem0 -
Guys, thanks for the advice. I have sat on the CAAD 8 and Synapse but the shop had no CAAD 10's. To be honest I couldnt notice any difference. I asked about a test ride, but was told no because they have no demo models at the minute. So Im in a bit of a quandry - I have also found 2012 CAAD 10's online at a £200 saving over the 2013 price so that seems to be the way to go, but Im nervous about parting with my hard earned unless I've had a ride on the bike... what to do??0
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t4tomo wrote:Burt - if you like White have you looked at the Giant Defy? cracking alu frame similar to the 'dales and under £1k eveing in Defy1 top spec.
Or can you get a white CAAD *8 tiagra in the right size? very little difference between Tiagra and 105 - you'd not really notice the difference.
I went back to a road back fro the first time in 20 ish years at roughly your age - you soon get used to the riding position again so don't worry too much about the "out and out race" vs "slightly relaxed sportive bike" thing - in truth there isn't much differnce in geometry / riding position. Putting both spacers under the bars on "race" bike put the handlebars in similar position to a sportive bike (ish)
if you want to go stylish Italian white instead of stateside, probably some of these around in your size if you google a bit....
http://www.evanscycles.com/products/bianchi/via-nirone-7-tiagra-compact-2012-road-bike-ec031993
The white CAAD8 looks great and I dont have a problem going with Tiagra instead of 105, but do want the best possible frame I can affoed and I believe by all accounts that the CAAD10 has the best ALU frame out there?0 -
You really do need to test ride them. Assuming the CAAD8 and the CAAD10 use the same geometry, they would feel the same to ride. You will find that the decision becomes very easy once you've tested them.Burt25 wrote:Guys, thanks for the advice. I have sat on the CAAD 8 and Synapse but the shop had no CAAD 10's. To be honest I couldnt notice any difference. I asked about a test ride, but was told no because they have no demo models at the minute. So Im in a bit of a quandry - I have also found 2012 CAAD 10's online at a £200 saving over the 2013 price so that seems to be the way to go, but Im nervous about parting with my hard earned unless I've had a ride on the bike... what to do??0 -
greentea wrote:And geometry is important, if you plan to spend a few hours on something thats going to stretch you out then make sure it fits, otherwise youll be back on here with another post about numb plums and back ache. If geometry didnt matter we'd still be riding Penny Farthings.
Geometry is 'important'. Of course it is; that much is self-evident and does not merit lengthy discussion - any more than the importance of what tyres are made of and whether or not they be solid or inflatable.
The point of all this is that on a technical level, it is a subversive influence; unhelpful to the beginner cyclist looking for a bike. Most amateur cyclists are insufficiently knowledgable of bicycle geometry that their appraisal of a bicycle would be remotely comparable with their impression of it from sitting on it and riding it; let alone level with or superior to.
It is not useful, and the hyperbolic terms in which the dynamics of the ride qualities of bicycles are so often described are no better. Anyone would be forgiven for thinking that some bicycles handle as though they are made of rubber (being 'bouncy'), or shudder violently and stagger drunkenly all over the road (having 'volatile front/back end'), etc etc etc. It's all overblown. In the past there was not nearly as much choice as today in frame and component sizing, let alone precision fitting and adjustment. A beginner needs a bike that's about the right size and suitable for the sort of riding that they are looking to do, with a degree of concession to comfort and rider fitness and flexibility.0 -
Simon,
Thank you for your useful reply- I didn't notice much difference just sitting on different frames and I suspect that a short test ride still my not really show,up the subtle differences in geometry. My gut tells me to go for the CAAD10 and having had mountain bikes for the past 20 years, suppose I am after a totally different experience hence my thinking that a proper 'race' bike is the way to go. In terms of riding, I anticipate doing no more than 2 hours on the bike at a time so a more relaxed 'touring' style is perhaps not so far up the priorit list.0 -
No problem.
But that's not a basis to go for a 'race' bike. There are myriad misconceptions about this as well; a race bike is not the default option for a 'short' ride whilst a 'touring/sportive/audax/etc' bike is for 'long' rides.
Apart from the fact that real 'racing' bikes are made for razor sharp handling as much as marginal gains, I would not recommend one unless you are blasting around at breakneck speed. I would not buy one for weekend rides. There are plenty of options that are plentifully racey but with a few creature comforts. Being able to put on wider tyres and proper mudguards, and having a ride quality that's vaguely tolerable, are things that you should strongly consider in a bike, and you don't have to buy a Dawes tourer! (not that there's anything wrong with Dawes tourers!)
I'm really not trying to persuade you against buying a thoroughbred machine; I'm just trying to help you to consider your options. If I bought a bike tomorrow it would be as racey as they come. For what it's worth however, my favourite bike has mudguards, a rack (at the moment), 27 1/4" tyres and a steel frame. I would be pleased to race anybody around here on it. 0 -
Just to throw something else into the mix.. I have been searching online and I can get either a Cannondale Super Six Carbon or Synapse Carbon (both 2012) for the price of the CAAD10, but with SRAM APEX kit - Any experience of APEX would be appreciated.0
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Yes, you can indeed get a 2012 Supersix 105 for about the same as the CAAD10 - and it comes in white. It's very similar geometry to the CAAD but obviously full carbon throughout. I've just bought one and couldn't recommend it highly enough - it is REALLY fast but also comfortable for those longer rides. I got mine from Evans and got them to price match it for about £700 off the RRP.0
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just get a cinelli experience. 2013 models are delightful colours and you can test ride it at halfords!0
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Just ordered my new ride after much deliberation- I went for a 2012 Cannondale Synapse Carbon 105- I think this will give me the best balance of performance and comfort with a good enough frame to allow me to upgrade components should the desire arise- cant wait for it to turn up now.
2 questions- being new to road bikes, should I use the flat pedals from my MTB for a while until I get used to the feel of the bike before going for clipless setup?. Also, the Synapse comes with a seat post which has to be cut to size- is there a method for getting the saddle height right given that I obviously won't be able to sit on the bike until the seat post is cut?0 -
1: I suggest you opt for clips and straps rather than plain platforms. You get 90% of the benefits of clipless pedals with a loose strap, with easier release; you just pull your foot out. If you tighten the strap, you get 99% of the benefits.
Clipless pedals are more convenient more than anything else; mechanical linkage gives completely regularised engagement and release that physical restraint does not, so you get optimum connection (or lack thereof) with the pedals instantly.
2: Probably the easiest (assuming you have a willing assistant!) method that's actually pretty accurate is to adjust the height until it is high enough that at the base of your pedal revolution your knee is slightly flexed. Some people are more precise than that. It should be high enough that you won't be able to stand next to it and straddle, and you will need to stand astride the frame and push off with your leading foot, lifting yourself onto the saddle.0 -
Simon Masterson wrote:1: I suggest you opt for clips and straps rather than plain platforms. You get 90% of the benefits of clipless pedals with a loose strap, with easier release; you just pull your foot out. If you tighten the strap, you get 99% of the benefits.
Clipless pedals are more convenient more than anything else; mechanical linkage gives completely regularised engagement and release that physical restraint does not, so you get optimum connection (or lack thereof) with the pedals instantly.
2: Probably the easiest (assuming you have a willing assistant!) method that's actually pretty accurate is to adjust the height until it is high enough that at the base of your pedal revolution your knee is slightly flexed. Some people are more precise than that. It should be high enough that you won't be able to stand next to it and straddle, and you will need to stand astride the frame and push off with your leading foot, lifting yourself onto the saddle.
Problem is the synapse has a carbon seat post which is profiled at the base 'tear drop shape' so there is only marginal ability to drop the post into the frame for adjustment. The top of the carbon tube has to be cut to the correct length so I won't be able to stride the bike to get the adjustment if that makes sense? Is there a calculation based on inside leg measurement to set the height from crank to seat?0 -
Use the Lemond formula for saddle height, multiply inseam by 0.883 -this calculation should correlate to height between the centre of your bottom bracket and the top of your saddle.0
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first test ride them all, it will make what now seems a difficult decision into something simple. However my other piece of advice is to for the caad 10, also look at planet x I believe that they do a £1000 model which is full carbon with sram rival.0
