Raise the handlebars - fail!
MattP75
Posts: 17
Hello,
I need some help please...
Today I tried to set about the relatively simple task (or so I thought) of raising the handlebars slightly on my Scott Sportster 55, to alter my riding position.
After undoing the two hex bolts on either side of the headset and the cap bolt on top of the headset, I was left wondering why there was no vertical movement in the stem.
All I could manage to do was move the stem from side to side.
The handlebars are at the lowest position and have not been adjusted before, and looking at the headset I'm wondering whether the handle bars can be adjusted at all.
The headset is a "Ritchey OE Logic Zero, semi integrated" if that's of any help.....
Regards
Matt
I need some help please...
Today I tried to set about the relatively simple task (or so I thought) of raising the handlebars slightly on my Scott Sportster 55, to alter my riding position.
After undoing the two hex bolts on either side of the headset and the cap bolt on top of the headset, I was left wondering why there was no vertical movement in the stem.
All I could manage to do was move the stem from side to side.
The handlebars are at the lowest position and have not been adjusted before, and looking at the headset I'm wondering whether the handle bars can be adjusted at all.
The headset is a "Ritchey OE Logic Zero, semi integrated" if that's of any help.....
Regards
Matt
0
Comments
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are there any spacers above the stem? if yes the remove the top cap and put them under the stem re fit the top cap and preload the bearings and then tighten the two stem clamping bolts.
if no spacers try flipping the stem over.
read the info on Park tools about Aheadsets."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
nicklouse wrote:are there any spacers above the stem? if yes the remove the top cap and put them under the stem re fit the top cap and preload the bearings and then tighten the two stem clamping bolts.
if no spacers try flipping the stem over.
read the info on Park tools about Aheadsets.
Thanks for the reply.
I don't believe there are any spacers above the stem.
With regards to "flipping the stem over", what does that involve?
I will have a look at the Park Tools reference in the meantime.
Thanks again0 -
MattP75 wrote:
With regards to "flipping the stem over", what does that involve?
I will have a look at the Park Tools reference in the meantime.
Thanks again
undo the 2 side allen keys, and the top one as you already did - but remove the top one + cap completely. Then lift the stem off, flip 180 degrees vertically (assuming that currently the stem angles downwards - so flipping it will angle it upwards).
once done, replace top cap/bolt and GENTLY!!! tighten until you have pre-loaded the headset bearings enough that when you apply the front bike and rock the bike back n forth there is very little, or no perceptible knocking/waggling from the headset - GENTLY - this is ONLY to load the bearings correctly.
once satisfied lock the stem in place be doing up the two side allen keys firmly.0 -
If flipping the stem does not make the handlebars higher you can get riser stems that are angled so they are higher or adjustable ones that you can alter the angle to suit you.Stems come in different lengths, angles and widths , if in doubt take it to your local bike shop and ask them what to buy .FCN 3/5/90
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Before doing this you should, of course, remove your handlebars from the stem by undoing the stem faceplate bolts.gosport_commuter wrote:MattP75 wrote:
With regards to "flipping the stem over", what does that involve?
I will have a look at the Park Tools reference in the meantime.
Thanks again
undo the 2 side allen keys, and the top one as you already did - but remove the top one + cap completely. Then lift the stem off, flip 180 degrees vertically (assuming that currently the stem angles downwards - so flipping it will angle it upwards).
once done, replace top cap/bolt and GENTLY!!! tighten until you have pre-loaded the headset bearings enough that when you apply the front bike and rock the bike back n forth there is very little, or no perceptible knocking/waggling from the headset - GENTLY - this is ONLY to load the bearings correctly.
once satisfied lock the stem in place be doing up the two side allen keys firmly.0 -
OK, thanks for the comments.
I've had a look at the stem again, and it already has a slight upward tilt to it, so flipping it will make it point downward, thus lowering the handlebar further...0 -
You may need to loosen the front brake cable. If it is tight the stem will not rise at all.0
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are you sure? some look like a that would happen but dont.MattP75 wrote:OK, thanks for the comments.
I've had a look at the stem again, and it already has a slight upward tilt to it, so flipping it will make it point downward, thus lowering the handlebar further...
pics? or what year and size frame?"Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
OK, apologies for not replying sooner...
I've flipped the stem, and as I thought the angle makes the bars slightly lower when set up like this, so that's not going to solve my issue.
There is one spacer under the stem already, but adding more will not work, as the stem is already at the top of the fork tube with no room to be raised further.
I'm not really sure where to go from here, bar looking for some forks with a longer vertical tube - or just putting up with the handlebar position as it is!
Regards0 -
A riser stem as detailed above, just like when you flipped the stem but fit a new one with a rise angle on it.MattP75 wrote:I'm not really sure where to go from here, bar looking for some forks with a longer vertical tube - or just putting up with the handlebar position as it is!Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
