What replacement bearings for my wheels??

rodgers73
rodgers73 Posts: 2,626
edited October 2012 in Workshop
I have a bike I bought through Evans that uses Alex Rims S500s. The details on the Evans website describes the wheels as follows -

Rims:Alex S500, aluminium, sleeve joint, CNC machined sidewalls
Front Hub:Forged aluminium, 32h, sealed ball bearings, QR
Rear Hub:Forged aluminium, 32h, double sealed ball bearings, cassette, QR

I need to give the rear wheel a bit of a service and want to replace the bearings as they've gone a bit rusty.

How do I know what size bearings to buy? I thought about emailing Alex Rims but as they didnt make the hubs thats probably a bit pointless.

Comments

  • You'll have to knock them out, take the three relevant sizes (outer diameter, inner diameter and width) and input them in an online retailer search engine. Go for simplybearings.co.uk
    left the forum March 2023
  • rodgers73
    rodgers73 Posts: 2,626
    Will I need a micrometer for this? I'm guessing the measuring is pretty precise?

    Looking at that site it seems the bearings that most closely match the ones ~I need are in the "magneto bearings" category - is that right or do you just buy them loose?
  • You will need a vernier calliper... you can do with a tape, but need to be accurate. Buy them separately... the rear will need two different ones, plus the two in the free hub, which might still be good
    left the forum March 2023
  • rodgers73
    rodgers73 Posts: 2,626
    You will need a vernier calliper... you can do with a tape, but need to be accurate. Buy them separately... the rear will need two different ones, plus the two in the free hub, which might still be good

    Two different bearings do you mean?

    I wont be messing with the freehub if I don't need to - one step at a time for me!

    When it comes to measuring am I not just measuring the diameter of the bearings themselves? That would seem simplest if I am just taking out old ones and putting new ones in their place.
  • rodgers73 wrote:
    You will need a vernier calliper... you can do with a tape, but need to be accurate. Buy them separately... the rear will need two different ones, plus the two in the free hub, which might still be good

    Two different bearings do you mean?

    I wont be messing with the freehub if I don't need to - one step at a time for me!

    When it comes to measuring am I not just measuring the diameter of the bearings themselves? That would seem simplest if I am just taking out old ones and putting new ones in their place.

    Yes, typically they have different sizes left and right...
    You need to measure the two diameters, the width is a consequence of the two normally, so in theory you don't even need to extract them to size them
    left the forum March 2023
  • rodgers73
    rodgers73 Posts: 2,626
    The last guy to service the hubs said there was the beginning of corrosion on the bearings so by now I'm pretty sure they need binning as they're making a nasty grinding sound. So, if they're coming out anyway I might as well measure the two sizes that are "revealed"
  • They may well be 6001 series bearings (which is a very common general purpose bearing with many applications). This is what Fulcrum Racing 5s and some other cycle hubs use.

    You don't need to worry about sourcing them from a cycling shop - you'll fare better with an engineering supplies retailer. When you have the dimensions of the bearing, go somewhere like here http://www.bearing-king.co.uk/bearing/6 ... h-skf/4183 . You can enter your dimensions and they'll tell you what bearing code you need. SKF brand bearing are very good - Swedish and been around for years and they supply wheel, clutch and other bearings for cars. You can get 4 SKF 60012RS bearings for about £12 delivered if you shop around. There's plenty of suppliers on eBay.
    "The Flying Scot"
    Commute - Boardman CXR 9.4 Di2
    Sunday Best - Canyon Ultimate SLX Disc w/ DuraAce Di2
  • I've just replaced the bearings on my rear wheel. I rang the supplier (halo) and they told me what I needed (6001) as above. The originals had 6001 imprinted on them. You'll need the 2rs versions of whatever yours say, 2rs means 2 rubber seals.
    Get at least 2 sets as you are bound to knacker one set (I did, I did the wrong side first on re-assembly).
  • rodgers73
    rodgers73 Posts: 2,626
    Problem is I don't know who made the hub - its an anonymous part, so no idea which supplier to ring. Alex Rims??
  • If you do in fact have ball race bearings and not just cup & cone see if you can get the -2RSL variant as they have low friction seals and only cost a few pence extra from a bearing supplier.
  • trekvet
    trekvet Posts: 223
    It doesn't matter that you don't know who's hubs they are, as you will only be dealing with bearing suppliers. You could be ringing up for bearings for your washing machine (heaven forbid, I've done it), dingy outboard, or lawnmower; they won't ask you. You are just buying bearings of the correct spec, and see above about rubber seals, etc. If they ask anything - it's for a pushbike. Keep the old ones, cleaned up, as may make it easier getting the next lot.

    When you put the new ones in, if they only have one rubber seal, they will have an inner and outer face. Use the correct tool to put them in, or Use a blunt nail to tap the outer ring only - don't let the nail go through the rubber seal. Don't forget the grease between the bearings.
    The Wife complained for months about the empty pot of bike oil on the hall stand; so I replaced it with a full one.