Making a Cannondale CAAD10 105 more commuter proof

jimmm
jimmm Posts: 202
edited August 2012 in Commuting general
I recently purchased a Cannondale CAAD10 105 to use as an all year round commuter and for cycling (again all year round) at the weekend when I can. It's a great bike and I am really enjoying it, but I want to upgrade and change some parts to make it more commuter proof - for when the colder and wetter weather sets in, and also to make it more robust on the poor road surfaces.

At present the bike is completely stock (as it was only bought on Saturday!). What parts would you guys recommend I upgrade/change first? I'm guessing wheels and tyres will be near the top of the list (if so are there any recommendations)? Are any other areas that I should be looking at?

I'm 6foot 1, and weigh around 80kg - just in case this has any relevance to what parts are recommended. Thanks in advance for any help.

Comments

  • BelgianBeerGeek
    BelgianBeerGeek Posts: 5,226
    I would run the current wheels and tyres until they need replacing. You don't say if you want to keep the current wheel/tyre set up for Sunday best, or if you have a budget in mind.
    Tyre-wise, Bontrager Hardcase tyres are tough. The ride is affected a bit, but the added puncture resistance may be worth it. I used them for a full years commute on my Bianchi with no issues.
    Apart from that, the usual commuting stuff: good lights, locks etc.
    For proper commuting, and unless you really enjoy getting a wet *rse on a winter's morning, guards are also a must. You probably don't have frame eyelets, so SKS race blades are good, or Crud guards fit nice and snug. They are fairly effective, look OK and are light. These will limit you to 23mm tyres.
    Ecrasez l’infame
  • jimmm
    jimmm Posts: 202
    The reason for my upgrade is due to my back wheel being slightly buckled and needing to be trued after only two days of riding - it wasn't something I was expecting - but the LBS noticed and dealt with it when I took the bike in for a minor gear adjustment. Due to this I was thinking that a tougher and better set of wheels than the stock Shimano RS10s will most likely be needed sooner than I think. I'm not looking to spend crazy amounts, but I would be able to make a budget of around £250 available in the next few months. Any recommendations in this price range?

    As for tyres this is due to the roads and cycle lanes being littered with all sorts where I live. The road is really poor quality in places too - so I am expecting to pick up a few punctures on the stock Schwalbe Luganos, which I believe aren't renowned for being incredibly tough.

    I did have some Crud Road Racer MK2s fitted for me when I picked up the bike - but the rubbing and rattling got too much, and even after a couple of hours of adjustments - I had to get rid of them, as I feared for the tyres and frame being damaged. Instead I am investing in some waterproofs.

    Lock and light wise I am already sorted (Kryptonite New York 3000 for frame and Kryptoflex cable to lock wheels to the D-Lock, and Knog Gekko front and rear lights - will be riding in well lit areas on winter commutes).
  • clarkey cat
    clarkey cat Posts: 3,641
    If you can get some handbuilt wheels - using Mavic CXP33 or DTswiss 585 rims these should last you and you should find them very sturdy as a 'heavier' rider.

    The luganos are pretty terrible in my experience and after experimenting with loads of tyres I don't think there is anything wrong with a Continental Gatorskin and are my preferred tyre for commuting (if you dont want to spend a bomb - if you do then the Conti 4 seasons are great. Shwalbe Duranos also come recommended by many commuters).

    Don't bother with waterproofs - just get some good quality winter bib-tights and a good jersey. I have an expensive Mavic waterproof jacket and even in really cold conditions I get soaked with my own sweat so I rarely bother with it. Good kit dries out quickly anyway.
    Dolan Mythos
  • jimmm
    jimmm Posts: 202
    Thanks for the advice. Is there any recommended places online for handbuilt wheels - or is it better to find somewhere local to me that offers this service? If so can anyone recommend anywhere in the Bournemouth area?

    Thanks for the heads up anout not bothering with waterproofs - after a bit of searching it appears that many cyclists echo your opinion! Definitely something I will consider once the weather gets colder.
  • clarkey cat
    clarkey cat Posts: 3,641
    This is meant to be the best bike shop in Poole / Bomo

    http://www.primera-sports.com/

    If you give them a call I'm sure they can point you in the right direction.

    And it doesnt rain in Bournemouth so you wont need waterproofs :wink:
    Dolan Mythos
  • jimmm
    jimmm Posts: 202
    Primera is where I picked up my CAAD10. Haven't seen any mention of them building wheels themselves - but yeah I'm sure they'll point me in the right direction. I have my first service with them in 6-8 weeks - so by then I hope to have an idea of what direction I want to go in with upgrading and changing certain parts.

    My front wheel appears slight buckled now - guessing they need bedding in and adjusting slightly after being ridden - before they will stay true for longer. Is it relatively easy to true myself with a spoke key tool like this http://www.wiggle.co.uk/park-tools-triple-spoke-key/? Or should I take it into the LBS to do?

    As for Bournemouth being sunny...I would usually agree with you, but this summer the sun has been hiding!
  • rolf_f
    rolf_f Posts: 16,015
    jimmm wrote:
    I did have some Crud Road Racer MK2s fitted for me when I picked up the bike - but the rubbing and rattling got too much, and even after a couple of hours of adjustments - I had to get rid of them, as I feared for the tyres and frame being damaged. Instead I am investing in some waterproofs.

    You'd be better off getting another set. 1) the tyres won't get damaged. 2) The frame can be protected with helicopter tape though they won't cause anything more than cosmetic damage anyway. 3) Someone on here will know how easy or not the Caad10 is to fit Cruds - but probably you need to try harder. 3) The reason you want to keep the Cruds has nothing to do with waterproofs. If it rains, you get wet and it doesn't matter. The front mudguard is to stop water getting sprayed at the rear wheel and mechs. The spray will wash out the grease from the rear wheel bearings remarkably quickly and, unless you keep dismantling the hubs to regrease them, wreck them. Similarly, everything else gets degreased by the spray. The fact that your feet are also not getting blasted with cold wet water is also a bonus. The rear mudguard is useful to stop spraying those behind you (though this is only an issue if there is anyone behind you) and to provide more protection to the front mech in particular. Also, they make a huge difference to how mucky the bike gets.
    And yes, it can be a pain to set them up on a bike with tight clearances - it certainly took me more than a couple of hours of fiddling to get them right. But it's worth it.
    So - mudguards are there to stop your bike quickly falling apart - which it may well do if you really are commuting all year round.
    Faster than a tent.......
  • passout
    passout Posts: 4,425
    Yeah, wheels (eg Planet X A57s) would help but i think tyres are the key thing (eg krylions). Crud Road Race 2 guards are great IMO.
    'Happiness serves hardly any other purpose than to make unhappiness possible' Marcel Proust.

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