Bleeding Tektro Auriga Comp Brakes
Greer_
Posts: 1,716
Brakes are Tektro Auriga Comp.
Both levers have been spongy for a while but I got on with it and just ignored it. Went out today and the rear brake was non existent. When I got home I tried to advance the pads but now the lever goes the whole way to the grip without biting (the rotor). I take it they need bled? I can's see what else it could be.
Just seems like one thing after another! :evil:
Both levers have been spongy for a while but I got on with it and just ignored it. Went out today and the rear brake was non existent. When I got home I tried to advance the pads but now the lever goes the whole way to the grip without biting (the rotor). I take it they need bled? I can's see what else it could be.
Just seems like one thing after another! :evil:
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Sounds more like they need a service or new pads.
What else have you done to them other than just use them?
Do the pistons move? How much?"Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
By service what do you mean? And I don't think there's anything wrong with the pads - there's loads of life left, but i'll go and check the pistons now0
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with the wheel off, the pistons (and pads) go from about 5mm apart to about 1mm. No force behind it at all though.0
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Somethings leaking :?:
Brakes rarely ever need bled unless there £ucked somehow.
A service would sort it..0 -
I can't see any leaks - doesn't mean there are any. Spoke to a guy from halfords (a knowledgeable one)
and they do just need bled. I've seen this kit - http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=34877 but i don't think it has everything I need to do the bleed. Does anyone have any tips or a general bleed kit link? I think I need a nipple valve thingy, output ports, mineral oil, plastic tubing ... 0 -
You needa special screw-in bleed valve for the Auriga Comp which, annoyingly, doesn't come with the stock Tektro Bleed Kit.
http://www.dotbike.com/p/66660 -
I managed to bleed Tektro Draco's without the bleed valve (why wouldn't they include it in the kit!). I cut a bit of the tube off and put a small slit in the end so it can fit in the reservoir.0
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Did yous follow the service manual step for step? I've heard its easier to bleed from the resevoir down, rather than the calliper up0
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I bled from the caliper up0
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Am I right in thinking that all that is needed from the kit is mineral oil, tubing and the syringe?0
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In theory you need the fitting to pipe off excess from the lever end, in practice I just let it run and clean up aafterwards!Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
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These guys might have kit for a lot less money than chain reaction. Good article on how brakes work also.
http://www.epicbleedsolutions.com/resou ... work/2.php0 -
Russell160 wrote:These guys might have kit for a lot less money than chain reaction. Good article on how brakes work also.
http://www.epicbleedsolutions.com/resou ... work/2.php
Thanks looks great so I just dropped them an email. I bought some mineral oil today and was told to try opening the reservoir, removing the bladder/diaghram and then squeeze the lever to push air out that way. So i'll see if that works and if not, hopefully they'll ^^ have a kit I can use 0 -
I've already received two emails from the above company answering questions etc so great customer services - and I'm sure delivery etc would be great from them (dead cheap prices too)! Its almost a shame I fixed it without ordering from them! I bled my brakes there with only mineral oil, a spanner, and a few allen keys! thanks for the help 0
