running a full length gear outer...
...on a frame with threaded bosses?
I want to run a full length gear cable outer on my commuter (to the rear mech, I'm on 1x9). Now I do this on both my mtbs quite easily as the gear cable bosses on the frames are slotted and unthreaded, so you can fit these puppies to hold the cable outer in place:
[Strictly speaking they are for a disc brake hose but they hold a gear cable fine]
The problem is the downtube bosses on my roadie frame are threaded so the guides are too fat to fit.
Anyone come across anything that will do the job? In other words, fit in a threaded boss but hold a gear cable outer in place.
Obviously I could just ziptie the outer in place but I want something neater/more permanent.
I want to run a full length gear cable outer on my commuter (to the rear mech, I'm on 1x9). Now I do this on both my mtbs quite easily as the gear cable bosses on the frames are slotted and unthreaded, so you can fit these puppies to hold the cable outer in place:
[Strictly speaking they are for a disc brake hose but they hold a gear cable fine]
The problem is the downtube bosses on my roadie frame are threaded so the guides are too fat to fit.
Anyone come across anything that will do the job? In other words, fit in a threaded boss but hold a gear cable outer in place.
Obviously I could just ziptie the outer in place but I want something neater/more permanent.
Facts are meaningless, you can use facts to prove anything that's remotely true! - Homer
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Comments
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having thought about it a bit, I'll probably just cut the (fat) shaft off the guide pictured above and bolt the guide directly onto the frame boss with a small bolt.
I guess the thread is M4 for a cable adjuster...?Facts are meaningless, you can use facts to prove anything that's remotely true! - Homer0 -
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I have figured it out. I'm just waiting on some bits and we should be ready to go. 8)Facts are meaningless, you can use facts to prove anything that's remotely true! - Homer0
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Can I ask why you want to do this. It does increase the amount of friction after all and hides any corrosion problems unlike bare-wire operation. There's probably something I haven't thought of I expect.0
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If you use plenty of cablemagic lube the friction isn't any more. I run this on both MTBs so it's well tested.
It's to stop water/crud getting in. A full outer only has two ends*. A split design has four 'ends' so more opportunity for water/crud to get it. Since going to full outers on the mtbs they've lasted much longer. You don't really need it on a 'regular' roadie I admit but my commuter gets used in all weathers, every day, so gets some hammer.
I'll post some pics up when it's done. Might be better in the commuting section...
*and if you're very anal about this you can seal the shifter end with silicone so strictly speaking, only the mech end could get water in.Facts are meaningless, you can use facts to prove anything that's remotely true! - Homer0 -
Thanks for that and I think I'll try some of that stuff.0
