Taking best bike off road for winter

Mine went on the turbo last night. Over the last week, it's been very windy, very rainy, or both. (or dark by 4:30pm !), and with the forcast for this weekend not looking good, I bit the bullet and put the bike on the turbo. That's not to say it'll stay there, but for now, my winter miles will be in the dining room

(My Mrs won't like the fact that I moved the dining room table to do so, but she's in Chicago at the moment )

Carbon bike up on the trainer since end of October and will stay there until start of April; live in an apartment, so when it takes more than a quick wipe to clean, it's time to hibernate.

Back on the full mudguard aluminium and steel 13kg beast for the next 4 months, it's horrible in the wind and on hills but keeps me a lot drier in the wet and doesn't suffer so much from being unloved.... one concession is that I'm currently converting it to 10speed from 8 with a cheap Microshift upgrade as I want to train on cadence and a jump from 100rpm to 85rpm on once gear change isn't helpful.

I'm still trying to convince mine to let me get a trainer for the kitchen (the only room thats feasible in our house) but she's not budging!

I've started to overplay the dangers of cycling in the dark, wind, rain etc in the hope she'll back down on the grounds of safety. Perhaps a minor crash would do it.....hmmmm..... :?

Commuting road bike gets used lal year around, apart from when its icy and i switch to the semi slicked MTB .

"weekender " will probably be staying off the road atm but its fairly new so i am still in the " Oooh shiny " mode with it.

Effects on bicycle
[edit] Salt and sand

In many parts of Canada and the northern US, municipal governments use salt, sand, or gravel on the roads in the winter. Salt corrodes unprotected steel rapidly, and wet sand and gravel can clog moving mechanical parts. This is particularly a problem for chains and other exposed drivetrain parts. Winter cyclists may have to clean and re-lubricate their chain and drivetrain much more frequently in the winter. During periods of wet, rainy weather, when the roads are filled with road salt-filled slush, the chain and drivetrain may needed to be re-oiled every day. A front fender with a large mudflap helps decrease the amount of salt spray, gravel, and other debris reaching the chain. Bikes without derailleurs (single-speed or with internally geared hubs) can tolerate more chain wear, and so can be a good choice. They also work well with chainguards or totally enclosed chain cases, which can protect the chain. "Rustbuster"-coated chains and stainless-steel chains are more resistant to corrosion.
[edit] Snow and ice

After a bike is ridden in snow and slush, it quickly becomes caked with ice. The bike will work better if the bike can be brought inside to warm up once a day, so that the ice can melt off. Once the ice has melted, the bike should be dried, and the mechanical components should be cleaned and re-lubricated. The least expensive way of lubricating a bike is with oil lubes, which also have the benefits of not freezing displacing water. However, oil collects dirt and debris such as road sand, which will wear down the chain and sprockets over time.

Another problem with winter biking is very poor or even non-functional shifting with the derailleur systems. This may be due to the water in the brake and dérailleur cables freezing or due to salt water that has caused the cables to corrode and rust. These problems can be remedied by using expensive Teflon-lubricated cables, by using fully jacketed cables (which are sealed and lined) or by using a dry wax lubricant such as White Lightning. Some winter bikers bring the bike inside a heated building after each use; while this may resolve the problem of frozen cables, it is likely to accelerate the problem of rusted cables, because the slush thrown up onto the cables often contains road salt.

I'm about to get my first carbon bike after letting my alu Trek go, will this be ok in the winter?

I know you have to look after alu, steel etc from salt, but what about carbon?

Thelittlesthobo wrote:

What is it that you guys think the winter will do to your bikes?

Is it the fact that you may have to strip it down and regrease everything, maybe replace some cables or is there something the winter will do to your bike that i am missing?

Partly, due to time constraints but mainly I am happier ('tis a relative statement) throwing my £1,000 bike down the road than my £3,500 bike. The roads around me are leaf covered, slimy and almost grip free at this time of year.

Carbon will be fine in the winter.

I don't use my best bikes in winter as conditions are wet and gritty and slippy, and my winter bike is cheap, has mudguards and is easier to clean as its fixed wheel.

If you go out and the roads have been gritted - wash down the bike. I've seen previously shiny components buggered up by salt corrosion. (not on my bike though - I clean mine !)