C'dale Jekyll 3 Build - Updated SEPTEMBER

SavellM · July 2011

So I just got my new C'dale Jekyll 3...
Top end alloy version.

This is my first AM bike, and first bike that im taking the time to change and get right.
I dont have a lot of money so some parts I really want, wont be any time soon.

My thoughts are to get this frame and a bike and slowly upgrade over time.
So maybe only upgrade when parts get worn out or if I get a bonus of some sort and can afford to splash out

Frame
Jekyll alloy 150/90mm w/ BB30, ISCG 03, SI12 dropouts and 1.5" head tube
REAR SHOCK: custom Fox Dyad pull-shock w/ adjustable travel and remote lever, 155x50mm
Forks
Fox 32 Talas RL open bath 150mm 15QR w/ custom 1.5" steerer
Rear Derailleur
Shimano XTR M985 SGS Dynasys 10sp
Front Derailleur
Shimano XTR M980 E-Type 10sp
Shifters
Shimano XTR M980 10sp
Chainset
FSA Afterburner BB30 42/32/24t
Bottom Bracket
FSA BB30
Chain
Shimano HG74 10sp
Freewheel/cassette
Shimano SLX 11-36t 10sp
Headset
Cane Creek 1.5" integrated
Stem
Truvativ AKA 1.5"
Handlebars
Easton Haven carbon bar - 9º bend, 5º upsweep - 711mm
Front Brake
Avid Elixir CR w/ 185 rotors
Rear Brake
Avid Elixir CR w/ 185 rotors
Rims
DT Swiss M480 32h
Front Hub
Formula DC71 thru15
Rear Hub
Formula DC71 DHL142 thru12
Spokes
DT Swiss Champion w/ brass nipples
Tyres
Schwalbe Nobby Nic PaceStar 2.4"
Saddle
Selle Italia 2011 SLR XC Flow
Seatpost
Pro Tharsis
Grips
ODI Troy Lee lock-on
Pedals
Shimano XTR PD-M980 clips
Miscellaneous
Syntace X12 rear axle

So far here is my progress...

Built at home, so far only changes is my Pro Tharsis carbon seatpost:

And a Selle Italia 2011 SLR XC Flow saddle:

Here it is so far:

I've got a new Stem Truvativ AKA - Not yet fitted:

With Ti bolts:

Also have a Easton Haven carbon bar - Not yet fitted:

And ODI Troy Lee lock-on - Not yet fitted:

Also Shimano XTR PD-M980 clips:
product.image.+media+images+cycling+products+bikecomponents+PD+PD-M980_1200x900_v1_m56577569830717010_dot_png.bm.512.384.gif

product.image.+media+images+cycling+products+bikecomponents+PD+PD-M980_1200x900_v1_m56577569830717010_dot_png.bm.512.384.gif

I'll upgrade all the other things like Cranks, Derailer and all that jazz later when I have expendable cash.

UPDATE SEP 2011 - NEW XTR Front and Rear mech, Cabling, and other bits!!!

http://img847.imageshack.us/img847/9292/img2011h.jpg
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/7533/img2013cd.jpg
http://img685.imageshack.us/img685/7157/img2014k.jpg
http://img153.imageshack.us/img153/3226/img2015d.jpg
http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/1940/img2017vn.jpg
http://img834.imageshack.us/img834/840/img2018dw.jpg
http://img200.imageshack.us/img200/5033/img2019c.jpg
http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/9426/img2020dw.jpg
http://img651.imageshack.us/img651/2245/img2021s.jpg
http://img841.imageshack.us/img841/451/img2022yh.jpg
http://img695.imageshack.us/img695/1476/img2023p.jpg

mcj78 · July 2011

Should be a good un' - I like the new Jekyll bikes, they look good with the beefier tubes, out of interest - what's the roadie hanging up next to it?

J

SavellM · July 2011

Its my singlespeed Trek District 5

I use that to commute to work and back.

http://www.trekbikes.com/uk/en/bikes/town/urban/district/5th_district/#

Really retro looking, but its growing on me

The Jeykll is for fun and weekends

mcj78 · July 2011

Cool, cheers - I thought it was some old random fixie conversion, wasn't too taken with the District bikes when I first saw them advertized but every one i've seen since then has changed my opinion somewhat!

J

SavellM · July 2011

Ye I wasnt so sure, but got it through bike2work for cheap.
And I wanted a single speed...

So thought what the heck, and took a chance.

At first when I saw it I was a bit taken back, but now I quite like it

Anyway, any other cheepish parts that will help me shed weight and help me in my Jekyll improvment?

mcj78 · July 2011

Depends on what you mean by cheap - you could get some lightweight tyres & tubes & start replacing some of the steel bolts with spangly anodized alloy ones (in non-critical areas of course) - neither of these will make a massive difference at once, but the weight savings will add up over time, other areas you could make some savings could be the wheels, however by the look of the spec it might be starting to enter the realm of diminishing returns related to the cash outlay, whilst limiting the bike's capability - no point sticking a 1500g superlight xc wheelset on a 150mm AM bike! Anyway, an extra pound or two will only make you fitter

SavellM · July 2011

HAHA fair enough

Ye I got a few Ti bolts to go places.
Mailny stem atm, but will go through and change up other bolts around.

Ye was thinking of a new set of tyres but gonna wear these ones out at least a bit then change them

quattrojames · July 2011

I'm very jealous

SavellM · July 2011

Where would you put carbon Schmolke bolts?
And where would you put Ti bolts?

I used Ti bolts on the stem.

Ordered a new headset cap, as didn't like the cannondale one.

Will upload pics later, got the new stem, bars, and grips on.
Looking nice!

DCR00 · July 2011

your pics dont work for me ?

SavellM · July 2011

Err the pics are in the post.
They should load in the post itself.

Check your browser can load the pics.
Otherwise I dunno.

Xgreygoose · July 2011

SavellM wrote:

Where would you put carbon Schmolke bolts?
And where would you put Ti bolts?

I used Ti bolts on the stem.

Will upload pics later, got the new stem, bars, and grips on.
Looking nice!

There is only afew places you can use carbon screws, bottle cage. maybe the mounts/clamps on the handle bar. I wouldn't though especially on a AM rig. Alloy bolts would be better on the handle bar mounts. The other places you could use carbon screws would be the screws on the rear derailleur pulleys and the front derailleur mount. IMO only do this if you plan on building a super light weight Alloy AM bike

Ti bolts would be the stem, brake PM mounts, brake disc rotor mount, seat clamp (if you are not planning on using a QR clamp), seat post clamp, and maybe front derailleur mount.

Also as mcj78 said, tyres and tubes would be the best and cheapest way to save a alot weight. Even just change the rear for a 2.2 size. Also you can tidy up the cables which will save some weight too.

I too, almost bought Carbon 1 Jekyll but waited far too long. Anyway here is my detailed thread which may or may not help you on building your prefect Jekyll.

Happy trails
http://www.bikeradar.com/forum/viewtopi ... sc&start=0

SavellM · July 2011

Thanks Xgreygoose.

Honestly it was your Carbon 1, and ideas that gave me some ideas

When I have lots of cash I'll upgrade to Shimano XTR

But for now it's little tweaks like cables, bolts, bar, seatpost, saddle that kind of thing.

Would like to change rims and hubs at some point too.

What cables would you use?

Thanks for the Alloy tip

Xgreygoose · July 2011

SavellM wrote:

Thanks Xgreygoose.

Honestly it was your Carbon 1, and ideas that gave me some ideas

What cables would you use?
Thanks for the Alloy tip

I'm not of fan of changing brake cables but gear cables for sure.
If you are looking for light weight housing then Shimano Yumeya housing (would look great on your white frame) or mini i-links both with Power Corz cables. (see my Jekyll thread)

getonyourbike · July 2011

Looking good

Brake cables aren't hard to change really. I used some Superstar ones because they were cheapest but the Jagwire ones are meant to be some of the best

SavellM · July 2011

Xgreygoose wrote:

SavellM wrote:

Thanks Xgreygoose.

Honestly it was your Carbon 1, and ideas that gave me some ideas

What cables would you use?
Thanks for the Alloy tip

I'm not of fan of changing brake cables but gear cables for sure.
If you are looking for light weight housing then Shimano Yumeya housing (would look great on your white frame) or mini i-links both with Power Corz cables. (see my Jekyll thread)

Could you link me?
I cannot find the Shimano Yumeya housing

Xgreygoose · July 2011

SavellM wrote:

Xgreygoose wrote:

SavellM wrote:

Thanks Xgreygoose.

Honestly it was your Carbon 1, and ideas that gave me some ideas

What cables would you use?
Thanks for the Alloy tip

I'm not of fan of changing brake cables but gear cables for sure.
If you are looking for light weight housing then Shimano Yumeya housing (would look great on your white frame) or mini i-links both with Power Corz cables. (see my Jekyll thread)

Could you link me?
I cannot find the Shimano Yumeya housing

Here you go

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=35066

Also you can change the cable on the rear shock.

SavellM · July 2011

Thanks mate

SavellM · July 2011

Man those Shimano Yumeya cables look ace!
Will I need to cut them down, at the back?
I've never installed gear cables.

So getting a set

SavellM · July 2011

So some more pics

Coming along nicely!

SavellM · July 2011

Xgreygoose wrote:

SavellM wrote:

Thanks Xgreygoose.

Honestly it was your Carbon 1, and ideas that gave me some ideas

What cables would you use?
Thanks for the Alloy tip

I'm not of fan of changing brake cables but gear cables for sure.
If you are looking for light weight housing then Shimano Yumeya housing (would look great on your white frame) or mini i-links both with Power Corz cables. (see my Jekyll thread)

Im quite a nub when changing cables.
Few questions:
1) Should I order 2x Shimano Yumeya one for front derailer and one for back gears?
2) Can I cut em down to size?
3) Would I need a special tool to do the cutting, crimping that sort of thing?

Xgreygoose · July 2011

SavellM wrote:

Xgreygoose wrote:

SavellM wrote:

Thanks Xgreygoose.

Honestly it was your Carbon 1, and ideas that gave me some ideas

What cables would you use?
Thanks for the Alloy tip

I'm not of fan of changing brake cables but gear cables for sure.
If you are looking for light weight housing then Shimano Yumeya housing (would look great on your white frame) or mini i-links both with Power Corz cables. (see my Jekyll thread)

Im quite a nub when changing cables.
Few questions:
1) Should I order 2x Shimano Yumeya one for front derailer and one for back gears?
2) Can I cut em down to size?
3) Would I need a special tool to do the cutting, crimping that sort of thing?

Bottom line, take it your LBS to change the cables. Changing cables are tricky if you don't have the right tool and don't know what you are doing plus the Jekyll is internal which makes it harder.
If you are only planning to change the RD & FD then one pack is enough. My suggestion would be to change the rear shock as well . Then you would need two packs. Better looking and save some weight 8)

SavellM · July 2011

Ye not a bad idea

Will get 2 packs hehe.
But might take it to someone that knows what they are doing with cabling and get some help. At least then I can learn.

Also Jekyll 3 cables are NOT internal. Only on the carbon Jekyll's

Xgreygoose · July 2011

SavellM wrote:

Ye not a bad idea

Also Jekyll 3 cables are NOT internal. Only on the carbon Jekyll's

That's right. I forgot you have an alloy frame. oops :oops:

creamsodauk · July 2011

looks awesome fella, very nice :P

SavellM · July 2011

Just got Crank Brothers Split QR Seat Collar:

SavellM · August 2011

Decided not to go with the Crank Bro's QR clamp, too heavy.

So ordered a Carbon-Ti "X-Clamp QR EVO"
Got some carbon and aluminum screws.

Will be nice.

Pics when they arrive!

Thewaylander · August 2011

mcj78 wrote:

Depends on what you mean by cheap - you could get some lightweight tyres & tubes & start replacing some of the steel bolts with spangly anodized alloy ones (in non-critical areas of course) - neither of these will make a massive difference at once, but the weight savings will add up over time, other areas you could make some savings could be the wheels, however by the look of the spec it might be starting to enter the realm of diminishing returns related to the cash outlay, whilst limiting the bike's capability - no point sticking a 1500g superlight xc wheelset on a 150mm AM bike! Anyway, an extra pound or two will only make you fitter

If you want a hardcore Am bike light tyres are not a good option they will roll on the rim and pinch on jumps and hard edges.

Depending of if you are gonna ride your Am bike hard or not, i'd be cautious of getting sucked in by the lightweight is best approach alot of people favour on the site, Stiff strong and reliable count for more on a slightly hardcore bike

SavellM · August 2011

I agree with that 100%.

Im trying to lighten up my bike, but at the same time keep it stiff...
Parts have been thought out, and im hoping it will pay off.

Ordered some other bits and peices so wait and see

SavellM · August 2011

Will this fit on a BB30 bottom bracket?
http://www.mountainracingproducts.com/mrp/xcg/

mcj78 · August 2011

Thewaylander wrote:

mcj78 wrote:

Depends on what you mean by cheap - you could get some lightweight tyres & tubes & start replacing some of the steel bolts with spangly anodized alloy ones (in non-critical areas of course) - neither of these will make a massive difference at once, but the weight savings will add up over time, other areas you could make some savings could be the wheels, however by the look of the spec it might be starting to enter the realm of diminishing returns related to the cash outlay, whilst limiting the bike's capability - no point sticking a 1500g superlight xc wheelset on a 150mm AM bike! Anyway, an extra pound or two will only make you fitter

If you want a hardcore Am bike light tyres are not a good option they will roll on the rim and pinch on jumps and hard edges.

Depending of if you are gonna ride your Am bike hard or not, i'd be cautious of getting sucked in by the lightweight is best approach alot of people favour on the site, Stiff strong and reliable count for more on a slightly hardcore bike

I didn't mean stick 1.9" superlight xc tyres on it, more along the lines of high end 2.2" folding jobs instead of more DH oriented rubber, or even as greygoose suggested just swapping out the rear 2.4" for a 2.2" would still save a bit of weight.

Not sure if the MRP would fit, what is your BB area like? I didn't have iscg mounts & ran an adaptor on my chameleon which clamped to the outside of the BB shell (also an MRP system) but at the same time it wasn't a BB30 frame so I don't know if it would fit over the BB shell.

J

C'dale Jekyll 3 Build - Updated SEPTEMBER

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