Dodgy Vento Reaction - can this be possible?!

rolf_f
rolf_f Posts: 16,015
edited July 2011 in Workshop
This week I noticed a rattle in my Ribble! Basically, it was that clackety clack you get when you've washed the grease out of your cup and cone bearings. The only trouble is the bike has sealed bearing Campag Vento Reactions. I checked the back out and found I could see the roller bearings but not do anything with them. The front is even more sealed than that!

I then put a Khamsin on the front and, so far, I hear no clackety clack. I doubt the wheel has even 1000 miles on it. I need to test more but would a kippered roller bearing make the same sort of noise as the cup and cone?

Google suggests I'm alone in this! :lol:
Faster than a tent.......

Comments

  • trekvet
    trekvet Posts: 223
    Hi Rolf
    Could be you got a case of false brinelling; see
    http://www.vibanalysis.co.uk/technical/wear/wear.html
    see "Wear caused by vibration" 1/2 way down, and where it says Cause is The bearing has been exposed to vibration while stationary.
    Do you put bike, right way up, on roof of car?

    Should be able to replace bearings; check Campag website.

    Others will say see about replacement wheel under warranty/sale of goods act - fit for purpose thingy.

    Trekvet
    The Wife complained for months about the empty pot of bike oil on the hall stand; so I replaced it with a full one.
  • rolf_f
    rolf_f Posts: 16,015
    Bike never on car roof - I'd be bound to go under a low bridge if I put it there!

    I looked at the instructions that came with the wheel but there is nothing. It does mention that the bearings can be replaced though I can't see how.....
    Faster than a tent.......
  • trekvet
    trekvet Posts: 223
    Hi Rolf

    Just been to:
    http://www.bocabearings.com/bearing-app ... o-rear-hub
    and the bearings look simple. How I would remove them is like a car hub bearing; drive it out from the other side. Clean off all grease and find a blunt 6in. nail or similar, and from other side put nail against inside of outer race (so as not to mark inside of hub where bearing sits) and tap it all round, and around, and maybe it will drop out. Second side is easier. To put new ones in warm up hub with some hot water while the bearings are in the freezer. When ready drop the bearings in - all the way! - on a car hub they clunk as they hit bottom. Hold with wedge of wood while you do second side. May have to use more hot water, but keep it out of the new bearing.
    There may be a Campag bearing puller tool in the bike shop and they can do it for you, but reread above and get the new bearings anyway. Bearings may be to different specs (for same size), more expensive will have finer finish and maybe better seal.
    All above is conjecture, but is how I would tackle it.
    Trekvet
    The Wife complained for months about the empty pot of bike oil on the hall stand; so I replaced it with a full one.
  • rolf_f
    rolf_f Posts: 16,015
    Hello TrekVet

    Thanks for the detective work. As it happens, I think the front is the dodgy one and that one you simply can't get into as far as I can see!

    I'll check again this weekend but I think I'll be ringing Ribble up if I confirm the wheel is not right. The bearings shouldn't go in less than 1000 miles (possibly more like half that). Besides, $70 for two bearings (£70 if I had to import from the states) is not far off what I paid for the wheel!
    Faster than a tent.......

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