A new mountain bikers experience....

trekruss · February 2011

I've been reading these forums for a few weeks now watching you guys patiently answering the same questions from new mountain bikers.

I thought it would be a good idea to share my experiences as well as ask you a few questions -

. Firstly I ignored all the 'what bike should i get threads' and bought a TREK 6000 2011. I didn't test drive it etc., i just went for it - so far I haven't regretted the decision. Anyone got any thoughts on the bike - please bear in mind the last bike i rode was a rusty old apollo.
Bought the bike from a great LBS in North Manchester - Cookson Cycles, couldn't recommend it enough the guy was very diplomatic when showing me the very basics of looking after and riding the bike!

. Been out on a few cross country jaunts in the last few weeks with a few breaks to let my arse heal. Not sure whether its the bontrager saddle or my posture / weight - I'm a big lad 17 stone and 6"5. Got some cheap karrimor padded shorts but don't seem to work v.well! Any advice?!

. Without sounded like a total wazock what clothes do you wear on a ride I don't want all expensive flashy gear in particvular I am struggling to get some suitable / practical shoes - I walk quite a bit when I'm totally knackered and my legs give up! - Go easy on me and I look forward to any responses / feedback thanks!

Stoo61 · February 2011

Cheap, flat soled shoe that I've bought recently.

http://www.mountainwarehouse.com/mens/footwear/walking-shoes/velocity-walking-shoe-p2003.aspx

As for your arse, in most cases itll harden up and get used to the punishment.

mattbeef · February 2011

Sadly its a case of MTFU which is what i hate saying.

You will need to break your saddle in and then get used to the pain if that makes sense? It does get easier over time. If you can go for an hour riding session and then have a day off and then out again. Helped me get over the pain after getting back into it

Deputy Dawg · February 2011

You might have more luck with a different saddle (plenty of threads for you to go through

).

I've personally found SDG Bel air to be comfortable but everyones different.

BenS999 · February 2011

+1 for SDG Bel Air. Super comfy saddle. Also check out Charge Spoon if you prefer a slightly firmer saddle than the Bel Air - similar in price too.

For flat shoes check out FiveTen Impact2 or Freerider shoes. both great shoes and there are some bargains online at the moment.

paulbox · February 2011

As has been said, your @ss will get better over time, if it doesn't then try some different models. I think Specialized do a fitting service so might be worth a visit if you can get to one of their concept stores.

Other than that, get yourself some chamois cream, I use the Assos stuff and find that it helps me.

I use SPD's so can't help with the shoes, but these might help your comfort levels:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=59660
Shimano Bib tights reduced from £60 to £22, I took a punt on them (also a big lad, 6'4") as Shimano aren't exactly known for their clothing, but find them very good, especially at that price! They only have XXXL left, but they should fit fine.

bartimaeus · February 2011

In my experience the key things are to be (1) warm, and (2) dry - and in that order. We went out for about 3 hours on Sunday - and by the end of it I was soaked through, but I was still warm enough so it was all good

I've just got some Shimano AM41s which have great grip for flats, and for me were much more comfortable (and more waterproof) than 5-10s. But these options are pretty pricey.

Skate shoes are supposed to be good for grip and not too expensive, but the ones I looked at were a bit too soft... and I would definitely team them with Sealskinz waterproof socks for the winter as cold wet feet can really spoil a ride. AM41s + Selaskinz is a huge improvement over my Merrell walking shoes and walking socks... and much easier to clean afterwards.

Walking shoes/boots are also good - but be careful as many soles have relatively poor grip, and if you lose your footing on flats you can end up with shredded shins.

As for clothes... layers, with a decent wicking vest. You need fewer layers than you think - until you stop - especially if you have a windproof top layer. Consider taking a spare layer in your pack on longer rides in the cold as you never know when you'll get a puncture.

Shorts and saddles are a very personal thing. I have Hummvee's - and find them very comfy with the clip-in liner. But you can use any lyra cycle shorts under any tough baggies and you'll be fine.

richvass · February 2011

Hi Trekruss, I agree with you I too have a Trek 6000 2009 model and I thoroughly made a good choice. I am more than satisfied with my purchase. Everything on the bike has proved robust and well made. A good brand. With regard your choice of gear: if you're on a tight budget then keep an eye on the Thursday ALDI offers as they offer cycle clothing twice three times a year. Perhaps sign up for their weekly newsletter. They usually sell shorts, shirts socks, spd shoes, underwear and high wicking under shirts/shorts. Its well made and low price so a bargain. Try Decathlon for cycle clothing and then your local sports soccer store who sell shorts and tops. I am tempted to buy a second pair of mtb shorts from tthere. Hope it helps?

cycle monster · February 2011

Welcome Trekruss, you will have seen that there are widely differing views on here about most things. I Started riding two years ago and my backside suffered terribly. I was riding a rusty old fully rigid Apollo. I upgraded to a cheap hardtail with a cheap but modern saddle which was an improvement. I now have a more expensive hardtail with a better saddle and have hardly any problems. However, the amount of riding that I have done has given me a wooden bum so I am now bulletproof in the trouser department.

New bike beats vintage bike

Boy Lard · February 2011

TrekRuss. I am also the (not very) proud owner of a Trek 6000 2010 model. The bike is a really nice bike for what it does. I can now honestly say I bought the wrong bike, because at the time of purchase I didn't really know what I was buying or what exactly I wanted to use it for. I have now changed a lot of bits on the bike, I should probably have just saved up the money and bought the 'correct' bike.

In summary on the bike:-

Nice for general cross country stuff. Climbs ok. Components generally 'ok'. Forks are not great on mine (Suntour something-or-other)

I soon found I liked going downhill more than up, I liked playing about on dirt jumps, I liked trying to jump off of things. The bike wasn't the best for these things. Head angle a little too steep, narrow(ish) bars, stem felt a bit too long.

I've put new bars and stem on, put some nice grippy MG-1 pedals on, changed the saddle (after a big crash that snapped the rails on the original) changed the tyres (which washed out on any fast loose corner, and didn't do well in mud), changed the chain and rear cassette (just because they wore out) and the new forks will be on the bike before I get my leg out of plaster.

It may be the 'wrong' bike for me but I still love it.

welshkev · February 2011

check out mountain warehouse and even aldi and lidl for cheap cycle clothing. they have offers on where you can pick up shorts, jackets etc for dirt cheap

as for shoes, if you're riding flats, wear whatever you feel comfortable in, i ride in adidas superstars when i'm riding flats

tom_fun · February 2011

Trekruss - scour around you r local TK maxx if you have one, you can get all sorts of 'technical sports apparel' that will be nice and wicking for pennies

Riding a bike is like playing the guitar, in the respect that learning the guitar makes your fingers hurt but you get used to it, with bikes its your arse

trekruss · February 2011

Brilliant folks - thanks for all the responses, been reading a lot of websites mags etc and there isn't much info when it comes to trek hardtails - are they like the microsoft of mtb?

With regard to the clothes etc., bartimaeus i agree warm and dry, but don't want to shell out a fortune and look like a divvy in all of my shiny new gear.

The bike (Trek 6000 2011) feels class - to me, I'm getting more and more used to it as the miles fly by - next up on my experiences so far .......!

. Arguing with the Mrs.., I live in a flat only 1 floor up but bike is in spare bedroom, mud everywhere. Does anybody else keep their bike in a flat and have any tips. There is an external bike store but not a chance do i trust my mancunian neighbours not to break in and have it.

. Places to go anyone from in an around manchester - specifically prestwich, whitefield, radcliffe and know any trails - not vertical downhill mahoosive jumps etc, I'm not quite there yet but i want a challenging ride this weekend. Thanks again

Deputy Dawg · February 2011

I keep my bike indoors too due to the thieving scrotes around here having all manner of equipment to bust locks :evil:

I haven't got access to an outside tap or electrics for a pressure washer so I just use one of those pump up garden sprayers to clean the bike before taking it indoors. I've also just bought a bike bag so I can keep it out of the way without attention being drawn to it.

If you check out the rides section I'm sure you'll find some guys in your area who know the local trails

paulbox · February 2011

trekruss wrote:

. Arguing with the Mrs.., I live in a flat only 1 floor up but bike is in spare bedroom, mud everywhere. Does anybody else keep their bike in a flat and have any tips. There is an external bike store but not a chance do i trust my mancunian neighbours not to break in and have it.

Find a riding buddy who has cleaning facilities, then go home via his house, that's what my mate does... :roll:

My drive looks more like a field at the moment the amount of mud we've been clearing off our bikes lately...

diy · February 2011

While I'm a great fan of cheap gear - shorts is not a place to economise. The cheap cycling gear has foam pads, whereas the decent gear has gel pads. it does make a difference.

Getting your seat set right (parallel to the ground adjusted for sag) so typically up one click at the nose from level, and then at the right height so that your legs are fully extended on the down stroke (seat roughly level with the top of your hips).

Apart from that it takes about 4-6 weeks to soften the seat and harden your ar*se.

Other things to adjust are your controls so that you brake levers run inline with your fingers straight from your normal riding position rather than having to tilt your wrist down. As you start to ride more you'll probably want them twisted even further downward so that you can brake out of the saddle.

A new mountain bikers experience....

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