Slipping gears...
Mr OCD
Posts: 382
Out yesterday in some very nasty conditions through thick mud having fun as you do when noticed on the last couple of miles that the rear mech (SRAM x7) was jumping down gears on it's own!
How do I sort this? I can also hear the front mech (x5) ticking occasionally...
Its a new bike that's done about 20 miles now so would assume I need to do some adjustment somewhere?
How do I sort this? I can also hear the front mech (x5) ticking occasionally...
Its a new bike that's done about 20 miles now so would assume I need to do some adjustment somewhere?
2009 Carrera Fury
0
Comments
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read parktools on how to set your gears up.
but a good clean will most likely sort it."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
Sounds like cable stretch. Take up a bit of slack with your adjusters on the levers.0
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Sounds like cable stretch. Take up a bit of slack with your adjusters on the levers.0
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One post for each brake?I don't do smileys.
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools0 -
Right stupid question time... Which way on adjusters tightens the cable?
I need to sort this asap as riding tomz eve and saturday...
Basically I shift a gear up on shifter, rear changes then jumps up and down between cogs making a rattling noise..
Read the guides and although worth a read they don't really tell you how to troubleshoot...2009 Carrera Fury0 -
Screw the adjusters away from the shifters to add tension.0
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supersonic wrote:Screw the adjusters away from the shifters to add tension.
... By away I assume you mean counter clockwise?
Just found this online...
Index Setting
Set limit screws (if not already done).
Shift chain to outermost rear sprocket (smallest). Shift chain to outermost (largest) chainring in front.
Test initial inner wire tension. Pedal a normal cadence and shift rear derailleur with one click on lever. Use care to only move lever one position. If derailleur moves one sprocket, tension is adequate.
If derailleur fails to shift one sprocket, inner wire may be too slack. Turn barrel adjuster fully into derailleur body (or shift lever) then turn counter clockwise two turns to allow for index adjustments. Loosen inner wire pinch bolt and gently pull on inner wire with fourth hand tool or pliers to remove slack. Tighten inner wire pinch bolt.
If derailleur will not shift one sprocket after removing slack in "d", return lever back to outermost sprocket position and increase inner wire tension by turning barrel adjuster counter-clockwise 1/4 turn and attempt shift again.
Shift to second sprocket in rear. Pedal and increase inner wire tension by continuing to turn adjusting barrel counter-clockwise until a definite rattling is heard. Rattle is from chain scrapping against next sprocket.
Once a too-tight rattle is achieved, turn barrel adjuster 1/4 turn clockwise, to release inner wire tension, and pedal again. Listen and look for signs of scraping or rattling. Continue turning barrel adjuster 1/4 turn clockwise at a time until rattle disappears.
Shift derailleur one sprocket inward at a time, listening for signs of rattle, indicating a too tight inner wire. Turn adjusting barrel 1/4 turn clockwise to eliminate rattle. Note: Do not attempt shift to largest rear sprocket while in largest front sprocket. This gear is normally not used and adjusting tension to this shift may compromise other commonly used gears.
Shift to innermost (smallest) chainring and check gears again. If no rattling is present, index adjustment is done.
If I do this for front and rear this should fix the issues for my SRAM kit?2009 Carrera Fury0 -
Yes, anticlockwise.
The guide sounds ok, and will work for your SRAM or any gears. But ensure the cables are clean, cut flush and lubricated.0 -
supersonic wrote:Yes, anticlockwise.
The guide sounds ok, and will work for your SRAM or any gears. But ensure the cables are clean, cut flush and lubricated.
Thanks for your help fella. Appreciated.
I had a quick go last night but will spend some time setting it up properly this evening when I have more time and tightening the rear shifter cable sorted it.
So now I understand how to setup the cable tension properly I will sort out the front mech as well which saves me taking it back to Halfrauds...
2009 Carrera Fury0 -
Went out last night on the bike for a 6 mile ride and despite experimenting with the cable tensioner at the shifter it still wasnt right... if I stayed in certain gears was fine but others were skipping on the rear cassette...
So I'm going to set the gearing up properly using the Park Tool guides... wish me luck... as I've not done this before... 2009 Carrera Fury0 -
I'd give the cable a really good tensioning firstWhether you're a king or a little street sweeper, sooner or later you'll dance with the reaper.
Cube Curve 2009
Giant Anthem X4
FCN=60 -
what about at the actual mech?
I say this as you'd have to do it to set the gears anyway but also the limit screws being out would mean the chain slipping off at either extent
When the tension is off the rear mech it's in a high gear and when it's under tension a low gear so if it slips back down the cassette, my first thought would be insufficient tension or some slack somewhere.Whether you're a king or a little street sweeper, sooner or later you'll dance with the reaper.
Cube Curve 2009
Giant Anthem X4
FCN=60 -
plus it's relatively new from what I've read and on a reasonably new bike I definitely would expect some cable stretch as they bed in but I wouldn't have thought the limits would have gone outWhether you're a king or a little street sweeper, sooner or later you'll dance with the reaper.
Cube Curve 2009
Giant Anthem X4
FCN=60 -
Agree with all the above about checking everything is set up correctly, however I've a X7 set up with the 950 rear cassette and 951 chain as standard. Just about from new (2 yrs ago), and even after recently fitting a X7 2010 mech and new 951 chain, in really muddy conditions I get the same problem sometimes, i'm pretty much convinced that its just the level of mud in and around the cassette that pushs the chain towards the next gear, coupled with often a filthy chain by this point - also i've seen the derailler movement reduced simply by the level of mud fouling up the end stops....Every time I go out, I think I'm being checked out, faceless people watching on a TV screen.....0
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t0pc4t wrote:plus it's relatively new from what I've read and on a reasonably new bike I definitely would expect some cable stretch as they bed in but I wouldn't have thought the limits would have gone out
Ok thanks ... will try the cable again tonight ... bit worried about over-doing the tension though as I'm out out riding in the morning!2009 Carrera Fury0 -
Hey there.
Might sound like an odd question but I've had difficulties with my gears for ages.
I rid a GT2 Avalanche. I usually ride it all the time in a high gear around 20 / 21. Is that ok for the bike or should I be keeping to a lower gear.
Usually what happens especially around the low to mid range gears my bike will skip a gear and I end up slamming my knees into the handle bars. Needless to say I have some very bruised knees as a result.
- Boualem Bouderba0 -
Have you taken it in for it's first service yet with it being a relatively new bike? I think it's pretty much expected that they won't be adjusted correctly to begin with.0
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The solution is Shimano.
@boualem - no. How on earth do you hit the bars with your knees? Your bike has loads of gears for a reason - to be used.I don't do smileys.
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools0 -
Mr OCD wrote:t0pc4t wrote:plus it's relatively new from what I've read and on a reasonably new bike I definitely would expect some cable stretch as they bed in but I wouldn't have thought the limits would have gone out
Ok thanks ... will try the cable again tonight ... bit worried about over-doing the tension though as I'm out out riding in the morning!
You can't overdo the tension unless you are Arnie Schwartzwhatever. Pull it tight with a pair of pliers, then adjust.I don't do smileys.
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools0 -
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It definetly sounds like an adjustment issue. I have never found the knob adjusters to be much cop for anything but very minor adjustments, 90% of the adjustment needs to be done by manually tensioning the cable. If you intend doing as much of your own maintenance as possible I would suggest investing in a proper bike work stand, it makes things so much easier (especially adjusting your gears). Just another thought make sure your wheel is sitting in the drop outs properly I have seen people struggle to get their gears right only to find the wheel wasn't seated properly0
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Also check the rear Mech hanger is straight and tight, if not you'll never get em set up right.
Surprisingly easy to overlook, bent mine when i came off (only minor) and spent ages trying to sort out gears. When i realised what id done i straightened the rear hanger out and tensioned up, never had a problem since.
You only get one shot .........so make it a double !
Santa Cruz Heckler 650b
http://www.flickr.com/photos/r0880/1177 ... 41137280800 -
Sorted ... used my best mate to help me set the gears up properly!2009 Carrera Fury0
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Mr OCD wrote:supersonic wrote:Screw the adjusters away from the shifters to add tension.
... By away I assume you mean counter clockwise?
Just found this online...
Index Setting
Set limit screws (if not already done).
Shift chain to outermost rear sprocket (smallest). Shift chain to outermost (largest) chainring in front.
Test initial inner wire tension. Pedal a normal cadence and shift rear derailleur with one click on lever. Use care to only move lever one position. If derailleur moves one sprocket, tension is adequate.
If derailleur fails to shift one sprocket, inner wire may be too slack. Turn barrel adjuster fully into derailleur body (or shift lever) then turn counter clockwise two turns to allow for index adjustments. Loosen inner wire pinch bolt and gently pull on inner wire with fourth hand tool or pliers to remove slack. Tighten inner wire pinch bolt.
If derailleur will not shift one sprocket after removing slack in "d", return lever back to outermost sprocket position and increase inner wire tension by turning barrel adjuster counter-clockwise 1/4 turn and attempt shift again.
Shift to second sprocket in rear. Pedal and increase inner wire tension by continuing to turn adjusting barrel counter-clockwise until a definite rattling is heard. Rattle is from chain scrapping against next sprocket.
Once a too-tight rattle is achieved, turn barrel adjuster 1/4 turn clockwise, to release inner wire tension, and pedal again. Listen and look for signs of scraping or rattling. Continue turning barrel adjuster 1/4 turn clockwise at a time until rattle disappears.
Shift derailleur one sprocket inward at a time, listening for signs of rattle, indicating a too tight inner wire. Turn adjusting barrel 1/4 turn clockwise to eliminate rattle. Note: Do not attempt shift to largest rear sprocket while in largest front sprocket. This gear is normally not used and adjusting tension to this shift may compromise other commonly used gears.
Shift to innermost (smallest) chainring and check gears again. If no rattling is present, index adjustment is done.
If I do this for front and rear this should fix the issues for my SRAM kit?
Cheers for that, ive not long started biking, my m8 built me a bike up, new gears and all, im having the same problem, been out quite a few times now, went to Kiroughtree and on the climbs when the peddles were undder load the gears would slip, its very annoying as it breaks my climb.
i'll try the above to sort them out0 -
Mr OCD wrote:Out yesterday in some very nasty conditions through thick mud having fun as you do when noticed on the last couple of miles that the rear mech (SRAM x7) was jumping down gears on it's own!
How do I sort this? I can also hear the front mech (x5) ticking occasionally...
Its a new bike that's done about 20 miles now so would assume I need to do some adjustment somewhere?
Have you just given it a damn good clean?!!
My gears are all set up perfectly but after a few hours of riding through mud, sand and all the usual cr@p on the trails they sound awful, gears jumping around etc. Nothing wrong with them, it's just all the mud and gunk caught in the mechanism Life is not measured by the number of breaths you take, but by the number of moments that take your breath away....
Riding a gorgeous ano orange Turner Burner!
Sponsor the CC2CC at http://www.justgiving.com/cc2cc0
