Can I get through winter on 23c slick tyres?
Canny Jock
Posts: 1,051
What do you think? Can't fit any wider under full guards. Last winter I had 28c Marathon Plus which were fine, current tyres seem ok except on manhole covers, but I guess this is true of any tyres?
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Can't see why not. The only caveat is rain and wind seem to put much more grit to the side of the road and 23mm do seem to feel every stone. I much prefer 25mm in winter. OK, let's compromise try 24mmCAAD9
Kona Jake the Snake
Merlin Malt 40 -
Cool, thanks guys. I'll carry on, then blame you lot if it goes wrong0
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JonGinge wrote:Greg66 wrote:I ride 23s year round. It's fine, except in snow and slush. And ice, but no surprise there.
@buckled_rims
+1 on both countsFCN3: Titanium Qoroz.0 -
Buckled_Rims wrote:Can't see why not. The only caveat is rain and wind seem to put much more grit to the side of the road and 23mm do seem to feel every stone. I much prefer 25mm in winter. OK, let's compromise try 24mm
The solution is clear.0 -
I'm umming and ahhing about whether to get some CX tyres for the country lanes around here... the road tyres had a few problems last year and that was before I moved and stopped for the rest of the Winter.Chunky Cyclists need your love too! :-)
2009 Specialized Tricross Sport
2011 Trek Madone 4.5
2012 Felt F65X
Proud CX Pervert and quiet roadie. 12 mile commuter0 -
Yes - do it every year! Except in ice and snow.....then I either take the MTB or the car. When it is really bad I work from home.0
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Kieran_Burns wrote:I'm umming and ahhing about whether to get some CX tyres for the country lanes around here... the road tyres had a few problems last year and that was before I moved and stopped for the rest of the Winter.
I used CX tyres (Michelin Mud 2s, 30mm) in the snow last winter for the ride through the Park (it was closed to traffic) and for the slush. Had an absolute blast in the Park - great SCR action with mtbers - and they were much better in the slush than my 23mm slicks (perhaps obviously). I ran them at about 40psi. Just be careful when cornering on tarmac - they're not so good, as I found out when I was sliding along the road.
Otherwise, what G66 said.FCN 2-4.
"What happens when the hammer goes down, kids?"
"It stays down, Daddy."
"Exactly."0 -
If it helps i've switched to 23c / 25c conti hardshells for all year round commuting and the roads/tracks around here are frankly shocking, no visits (on this bike) from you know who yet this year :shock:
Especially as I had over 50 last year.
No had any grip problems in morning frost or all kinds of wet & windy, I certainly notice the difference a 25c make on the back, the ride is much more comfortable.
Oh and keep them pumped up hard.
Edit: for the snow and ice I have studded conti spikes or something I forget now (repressed memory) did the job but still had one visit thankfully it stayed inflated until I got home.Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.0 -
Sheesh! I knew you had a reputation for such things, but that must be £200 worth of tubes. I might give the Hardshells a try as although my Gatorskins are pretty resistant to pointy things, they don't really inspire confidence when cornering in the wet.1985 Mercian King of Mercia - work in progress (Hah! Who am I kidding?)
Pinnacle Monzonite
Part of the anti-growth coalition0 -
rjsterry wrote:Sheesh! I knew you had a reputation for such things, but that must be £200 worth of tubes. I might give the Hardshells a try as although my Gatorskins are pretty resistant to pointy things, they don't really inspire confidence when cornering in the wet.
Actually it was 54 not including errors changing tubes and patches that came off, but hey who's counting :roll:
Hardshells +100Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.0 -
So I'm really trying to work out whether I need to have my hybrid on standby with chunky, grippy tyres or not.
My normal commuting bike is a single speed Ribble winter frame which won't take more than 23c tyres under full guards, maybe a Singlecross would be the answer, possibly as n+1? But I am also thinking about a winter geared bike, that would make 5 in total and the shed is getting full - or I could convert the Ribble back to geared as the winter trainer - decisions, decisions!
And rest.0 -
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Canny Jock wrote:So I'm really trying to work out whether I need to have my hybrid on standby with chunky, grippy tyres or not.
My normal commuting bike is a single speed Ribble winter frame which won't take more than 23c tyres under full guards, maybe a Singlecross would be the answer, possibly as n+1? But I am also thinking about a winter geared bike, that would make 5 in total and the shed is getting full - or I could convert the Ribble back to geared as the winter trainer - decisions, decisions!
And rest.
Welcome to the world of CX. Please join the queue for a suitable all round commuting bike that is the answer to all your needs.
Free cape and access to the exclusive club is free for all new enlightened commuters 8)Chunky Cyclists need your love too! :-)
2009 Specialized Tricross Sport
2011 Trek Madone 4.5
2012 Felt F65X
Proud CX Pervert and quiet roadie. 12 mile commuter0 -
Canny Jock wrote:So I'm really trying to work out whether I need to have my hybrid on standby with chunky, grippy tyres or not.
My normal commuting bike is a single speed Ribble winter frame which won't take more than 23c tyres under full guards, maybe a Singlecross would be the answer, possibly as n+1? But I am also thinking about a winter geared bike, that would make 5 in total and the shed is getting full - or I could convert the Ribble back to geared as the winter trainer - decisions, decisions!
And rest.
My commuter is a ribble winter with 25/23c and crud race blades no clearance issues.Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.0 -
According to Sheldon Brown, seen as a bit of an authority on cycling, tread on bike tyres makes absolutely no difference whatsoever to stability (I think unless it's knoobly style for off road use).
All tread and grip on cycling tyres is purely cosmetic because it's what people expect to see but is completely ineffective. Tread on car and motorbike tyres is NOT to help them grip the road but to avoid aquaplaning. Aquaplaning occurs when the vehicle is travelling so fast that water/moisture on the road surface builds up under and in front of the tyre and cannot clear fast enough ultimately resulting in the vehicle sliding on a bed of moisture. Tread allows the water to escape more quickly to avoid this. This is more likely in cars and motorbikes because they travel at higher speeds and have wider tyres.
For there to be a risk of aquaplaning with 23c bike tyres you would need to be travelling at several hundred miles per hour (can't remember the exact figure, it's on Sheldon's site). So slicks or treaded tyres makes no difference whatsoever.
Just avoid manhole covers in the wet or dry!Do not write below this line. Office use only.0 -
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_ho-z. ... droplaning
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_tp-z.html#tread
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_sa-o.html#slickDo not write below this line. Office use only.0 -
My normal commuter is fixed wheel Langster with 23 mm tyres and full SKS mudguards. tight fit and any road debris (leaves, mud, slush) rubs a bit.
Tyres were fine over winter (although PF came yesterday morning, for the first time in 9?) months)
I now have a Tricross that I'm planning on using if / when there's snow. More for the clearance than for the tyre choice. I run 23mm tyres on it too, and have 32 CX tyres if the weather gets like it was last winter.
Ideally I'd go for a Singlecross. This would combine the clearance of the Tricross with the simplicity of the Langster. Also better brakes! Shame they are no longer selling Singlecross
The ultimate commuter for me would be a disc-braked fixed wheel. Might have to wait a year or two before 700c discs really become mainstream following UCI CX permission.Commute: Langster -Singlecross - Brompton S2-LX
Road: 95 Trek 5500 -Look 695 Aerolight eTap - Boardman TTe eTap
Offroad: Pace RC200 - Dawes Kickback 2 tandem - Tricross - Boardman CXR9.8 - Ridley x-fire0 -
I rode Vittoria rubino tyres fine through the winter and even the snow albeit carfeullyPurveyor of sonic doom
Very Hairy Roadie - FCN 4
Fixed Pista- FCN 5
Beared Bromptonite - FCN 140 -
ex-pat scot wrote:The ultimate commuter for me would be a disc-braked fixed wheel
Cotic road rat... I will own one hopefully sooner rather than later.Le Cannon [98 Cannondale M400] [FCN: 8]
The Mad Monkey [2013 Hoy 003] [FCN: 4]0 -
Headhuunter wrote:According to Sheldon Brown, seen as a bit of an authority on cycling, tread on bike tyres makes absolutely no difference whatsoever to stability (I think unless it's knoobly style for off road use).
All tread and grip on cycling tyres is purely cosmetic because it's what people expect to see but is completely ineffective. Tread on car and motorbike tyres is NOT to help them grip the road but to avoid aquaplaning. Aquaplaning occurs when the vehicle is travelling so fast that water/moisture on the road surface builds up under and in front of the tyre and cannot clear fast enough ultimately resulting in the vehicle sliding on a bed of moisture. Tread allows the water to escape more quickly to avoid this. This is more likely in cars and motorbikes because they travel at higher speeds and have wider tyres.
For there to be a risk of aquaplaning with 23c bike tyres you would need to be travelling at several hundred miles per hour (can't remember the exact figure, it's on Sheldon's site). So slicks or treaded tyres makes no difference whatsoever.
Just avoid manhole covers in the wet or dry!
Contact patch size does make a difference, though. Bigger tyres are an advantage. Knobbles are also advantageous in snow, in my opinion.0 -
UndercoverElephant wrote:Headhuunter wrote:According to Sheldon Brown, seen as a bit of an authority on cycling, tread on bike tyres makes absolutely no difference whatsoever to stability (I think unless it's knoobly style for off road use).
All tread and grip on cycling tyres is purely cosmetic because it's what people expect to see but is completely ineffective. Tread on car and motorbike tyres is NOT to help them grip the road but to avoid aquaplaning. Aquaplaning occurs when the vehicle is travelling so fast that water/moisture on the road surface builds up under and in front of the tyre and cannot clear fast enough ultimately resulting in the vehicle sliding on a bed of moisture. Tread allows the water to escape more quickly to avoid this. This is more likely in cars and motorbikes because they travel at higher speeds and have wider tyres.
For there to be a risk of aquaplaning with 23c bike tyres you would need to be travelling at several hundred miles per hour (can't remember the exact figure, it's on Sheldon's site). So slicks or treaded tyres makes no difference whatsoever.
Just avoid manhole covers in the wet or dry!
Contact patch size does make a difference, though. Bigger tyres are an advantage. Knobbles are also advantageous in snow, in my opinion.
Between these two posts everything is covered. Slick tyres grip better on tarmac, bigger tyres offer more grip and a smoother ride(for the same compound and tread pattern/slickness)
studded ice spikes are the only thing that grip on ice, but mud spikes work pretty well on compacted snow but are really treacherous on ice.0 -
Hybrid with spikes
Attica in the background trying to work out where he is, nothing new there then ;-)Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.0 -
On a commuting run last year
Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.0 -
UndercoverElephant wrote:Headhuunter wrote:According to Sheldon Brown, seen as a bit of an authority on cycling, tread on bike tyres makes absolutely no difference whatsoever to stability (I think unless it's knoobly style for off road use).
All tread and grip on cycling tyres is purely cosmetic because it's what people expect to see but is completely ineffective. Tread on car and motorbike tyres is NOT to help them grip the road but to avoid aquaplaning. Aquaplaning occurs when the vehicle is travelling so fast that water/moisture on the road surface builds up under and in front of the tyre and cannot clear fast enough ultimately resulting in the vehicle sliding on a bed of moisture. Tread allows the water to escape more quickly to avoid this. This is more likely in cars and motorbikes because they travel at higher speeds and have wider tyres.
For there to be a risk of aquaplaning with 23c bike tyres you would need to be travelling at several hundred miles per hour (can't remember the exact figure, it's on Sheldon's site). So slicks or treaded tyres makes no difference whatsoever.
Just avoid manhole covers in the wet or dry!
Contact patch size does make a difference, though. Bigger tyres are an advantage. Knobbles are also advantageous in snow, in my opinion.
Yes I agree, contact area/tyre size and type of rubber or TPI makes more difference than any type of tread. I've noticed that on my new(ish) Ribble with Vittoria Rubinos I am able to wheelspin, especially when honking it up hills in the wet. Never happened on Gatorskins. Knobblies make a difference off road, certainlyDo not write below this line. Office use only.0 -
Headhuunter wrote:I've noticed that on my new(ish) Ribble with Vittoria Rubinos I am able to wheelspin, especially when honking it up hills in the wet. Never happened on Gatorskins. Knobblies make a difference off road, certainly
I can wheelspin Rubino Pros, but not too much. Never try Bontrager Race lite Hardcase , I could spin them in the dry :roll:0 -
itboffin wrote:On a commuting run last year
Are those spikes?
I'm thinking about investing in a pair of Schwalbe Marathon Winters for the new bike when it arrives but I'm a bit concerned that they start at 35mm and the clearance on the guards is for 35mm tyres. Do the spikes on winter tyres generally stick out very much or am I going to have to try them to see if it works?Mud - Genesis Vapour CCX
Race - Fuji Norcom Straight
Sun - Cervelo R3
Winter / Commute - Dolan ADX0 -
I almost forgot...
At VB lights this morning, there was a chap dressed all in black, with ski goggles, astride a, er, bike. This bike had tracks over the rear wheel, with a ski on the right side of the front wheel. He was being photographed by his mate, who was standing in the traffic island.
A genuine WTF? moment.
Did anyone else see this?FCN 2-4.
"What happens when the hammer goes down, kids?"
"It stays down, Daddy."
"Exactly."0