Cutting Shimano Deore Hydraulic Disc Brake Cables

Craig321
Craig321 Posts: 169
edited July 2010 in MTB workshop & tech
Hi,

Does anyone have/know of a decent guide I can use to cut my Shimano Deore brake cables without having to re-bleed?

I have a fair bit of length to come off to neaten the bike up a bit and obviously don't want to just go cutting without researching.

Thanks,
Craig.

Comments

  • peter413
    peter413 Posts: 5,120
    I think you always have to bleed them
    Transition Patrol
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  • Craig321
    Craig321 Posts: 169
    Hmm, I'm not sure if it depends on the make of the brakes?

    This guide shows you how, but they're using a different make: http://www.bikemagic.com/maintenance/sh ... /4807.html
  • DaveHudson
    DaveHudson Posts: 290
    As long as the lever is not actuated while the system is "open" you will be fine. I had to trim the m595 hoses and have not had to bleed them.
    2011 Cannondale Flash F1
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    I'm assuming as youare talking bleeding you mean hoses not cables?

    Simon
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Craig321
    Craig321 Posts: 169
    The Beginner wrote:
    I'm assuming as youare talking bleeding you mean hoses not cables?

    Simon

    Yep
    DaveHudson wrote:
    As long as the lever is not actuated while the system is "open" you will be fine. I had to trim the m595 hoses and have not had to bleed them.

    I.e. don't touch the brake level while cutting? :P

    Would it just be a case of unscrewing, cutting, and screwing back in then? Providing I do it properly and don't need to re-bleed?
  • DaveHudson
    DaveHudson Posts: 290
    Yeah that's it, I just used a posh word :lol:

    You will need a new barb and olive I think but otherwise just unscrew and trim then put back.
    2011 Cannondale Flash F1
  • Craig321
    Craig321 Posts: 169
    DaveHudson wrote:
    Yeah that's it, I just used a posh word :lol:

    You will need a new barb and olive I think but otherwise just unscrew and trim then put back.

    Why would I need a new barb & olive. Do they not go back on once taken off?
  • snotty badger
    snotty badger Posts: 1,593
    Surely if you cut the hose the fluid will leak and air will get in?! :?
    08 Pitch Pro
    14 Kona Unit
    Kona Kula SS
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    94 Univega Alpina 5.3
  • RupertCommunicator
    RupertCommunicator Posts: 734
    Personally I would empty the system first, cut then re-bleed, but if you think you can do it without bleeding, crack on and good luck to you! :D
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    you will definitely need to bleed the system after cutting the hose, unless you perform the enitre operation submerged in mineral oil (or brake fluid for other brands of brakes)
  • W00DENT0P
    W00DENT0P Posts: 211
    As said, as long as you don't operate the lever while you have the the hose disconnectedit'll be fine, no need to bleed them.
    You might get on odd drip from the lever but seeing as the reservoir cap is still on then its still sealed, the chance of getting air into the lever thru where the hose connects is pretty slim, same with the hose / caliper.
    On the small chance of getting any air in the system, just place the lever so the reservoir cap is level, remove it then just pull the lever a few times, this will allow any small bubbles rise back up into the reservoir.
    Swapped / shortened loads (problys 100's) of hoses and its very rare you need to bleed the system.
  • paul.skibum
    paul.skibum Posts: 4,068
    You will need a new Olive at the very least - the old one will have been squished by the assembly and need replacing - barb may be salvageable. I'd probably bleed it again - doesnt take long.
    Closet jockey wheel pimp whore.

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