PG or DB?

DB.

read the topic in the FAQs or try a search.

if you want wheels built then order some from crc or merlin. as lawman said building your own can go horribily wrong. i would rather save money and my face and use cec or merlin or your LBS

If anyone wants to learn to build wheels, you can! I taught myself with the help of some instructions from MBUK if I remember rightly. That was 20 years ago, and the 1st set I built were fine. The rear is no more because the hub died, but the front is still on a bike now ridden by a friend.

I've been building ever since, and whilst there are shops that do a good job, there's plenty that don't. I've destroyed a wheel, it wasn't one I built, it was one that came on a complete bike. Never wrecked one I've built, and I've bent a frame in a head on, the wheel survived without needing a re-true.

I'm not saying I'm better than anyone else, just making the point that if you learn to do it properly and you take whatever time it takes to get the wheel tight & even you'll build better ones than a lot of shops. Some seem to churn them out too fast, I guess if you're not charging for the build, only the bits then you've got to make your profit.

On spokes, sonic was making the point a while back that the extra stretch of DB spokes makes for a stronger wheel as the extra give means that the rim isn't subject to such big shock. This makes sense. Spokes are reckoned to be the strongest part of a wheel, which is why often in a failure the spokes don't break, they pull through the rim or crack the hub flange. I've never broken a spoke even when they get damaged by the chain & need replacing.

If anyone wants to learn I can teach you - I run courses, and if you have a bit of mechanical ability you'll be fine. I'll also build for you, but I do charge for the build, then I can offer an absolute promise that they'll get all the attention it takes with no corners cut.

Why not have a go at building wheels?

I'd never built one 6 months ago, now I've built three: a 3x rear track hub, a 2x front track hub and a 2x/3x mix powertap hub with bladed spokes.

Yes it takes time to learn. I started by dismantling and rebuilding an old mountain bike wheel. I did that a couple of times to get the feel for it and then I was away. Yes, bladed spokes were a new challenge, building a dished rear wheel was a bit different from the track hubs and it's taken several hours (10+), but it passed a few dark winter nights.

Another benefit is that I have a lot more confidence when it comes to truing wheel after an argument with a pot hole/kerb/grid saving even more money. When you're looking at 15 quid a time for a LBS to true a wheel then the outlay in terms of tools is soon recouped.

I recommend Roger Musson's e-book: http://www.wheelpro.co.uk/wheelbuilding/book.php and some info here about some more exotic spoke lacing patterns for when you've learnt the basics: http://spokeanwheel.110mb.com/lacing.htm

Take your time, be patient, work logically and you'll be fine.

I'm really a roadie so can't help on your choices, but one thing I do recommend is using standard DT Brass nipples. In my (limited!) experience. They make wheel building easier. I used DT Proloc nipples on the powertap and 'cos i was being a tart and wanted black spokes and nipples. They have a thread-locking compound in them and the increased friction meant that spoke wind up (where the spoke twists withthe nipple rather the nipple screwing onto the spoke) was a problem that I didn't have with the other wheels.

The book explains it all but if you don't like trigonometry then there's a free spoke length calculator on the wheelpro website too. It just does all the sums for you. I've used it for the 3 wheels I built and found it to be accurate.

The hub measurements can usually be obtained from the hub manufactures website (HALO definitely have the info on). If not then a vernier calliper it is. Basically you need flange diameter and distance from flange to wheel centre (not hub centre on a rear wheel due to dish!), true rim diameter (either measure using the method in the book or contact the manufacturer) and then decide on spoke lacing pattern although I suggest you start with a standard 3-cross front and rear.

For peace of mind, once you've got the hub and rim measurements, PM me and I'll stick them into the calculator too. Remember....measure twice, cut (or pay!) once!

That datasheet gives you the spoke lengths for building the hub into specific HALO rims.

As you can see there are differences in spoke lengths for 26" rims from the same manufacturer and that's why it's important to use the effective diameter for the rim you are using. How to measure that is in Roger Musson's book.

The details for the Spin Doctor Hub are on this page:

http://www.halorims.com/Halo/products-d ... d=HUHASDR2

with the important stuff to note being:

Flange Tech:
C-L 34mm F58mm
C-R 19mm F58mm

What that tells you is that the flange diameter is 58mm on both sides and that the distance from wheel centre to the left flange (C-L) is 34mm and the distance from wheel centre to the right flange (C-R) is 19mm. This distance is less than (C-L) because the wheel is dished to take account of the cassette. The rim needs to be centred between the lock nuts, not the flanges.

Stick this data into the wheel pro spoke calculator along with the rim diameter and it will give you the requred spoke lengths for drive side and non-drive side based on whetever lacing pattern (2x, 3x, 4x) you choose.

Spoke length is not supercritical +/- a couple of mm will be okay, but it's easier to work with spokes that are a couple of mm too long than too short so if you have the option, then go long.

Can't find any info on the Club Roost hub. Their website linked from http://www.windwave.co.uk/windwave/KT-T ... d=ycq4nWfw seems to forward to a beauty products website

The rim diameter cannot be 36mm!

No lol, the diameter of the hoop! It is know as the Effective Rim Diameter or ERD. You should be able to look it up.

No, not 26 inches - that is a nominal tyre diameter.

What is the rim? (exactly)

http://www.ison-distribution.com/ison/e ... rt=RMHAS66