I have a pretty good idea of the ratios used offroad on singlespeed MTB's but what is the sort of range people use on commuterised MTBs on road? Say for rolling terrain, mid distance, no major climbs.
I have a converted mid 90's steel Marin MTB & put 1.5" slicks on it. I've settled with 44 on the front & 16 on the back, this comes out at approx the same ratio as running the popular 42/16 on a 700c wheel.
I Found this gives a usable top speed without spinning out all the time, plus it's easy enough to start off with & get up hills with a bit of effort, although when I added SPD's onto the bike it helped a lot.
When I first built it I had 32/16 & it just didn't work on the road, I would sprint & spin out then free wheel then repeat, with 44/16 I have a gear that I can constantly pedal.
I've stuck with 32/16. I have a couple of hardish but short climbs on my commute. I think I could just cope with 42/16, which would be better on the flats and downhills.
I also use the SS bike for MTB routes on Knobblies so it'll remain at 32/16 until doomsday
Hi there, I don't usually hijack another thread, but I'm going through the process of sourcing kit for my singlespeed conversion....... most of the cycling will be commuting on road so after reading some of the posts on here and other threads I'm going for a ratio of 44/16. I'm looking to buy a conversion kit from one-one or superstar and have a few queries:
1. Should the front chainring be a middle or an outer?
2. Do I need a singlespeed specific chain?
3. Which tensioner is better - a jockey wheel type or roller?
Hi there, I don't usually hijack another thread, but I'm going through the process of sourcing kit for my singlespeed conversion....... most of the cycling will be commuting on road so after reading some of the posts on here and other threads I'm going for a ratio of 44/16. I'm looking to buy a conversion kit from one-one or superstar and have a few queries:
1. Should the front chainring be a middle or an outer?
Doesn't matter- the difference is there to aid shifting and you won't be.
2. Do I need a singlespeed specific chain?
No, but it's better suited to the job, so if you are making a choice you may as well opt for one.
3. Which tensioner is better - a jockey wheel type or roller?
Dunno, sorry- not used either, as I ride fixed. Maybe you can do without- do you have horizontal dropouts that allow you to adjust chain tension?
I have vertical dropouts so will need a tensioner...... regarding chainrings - can I use any chainring, or are there SS specific ones that I should be looking at?
I am looking forward to spending some time buying kit this afternoon .
Posts
knobbies 32:16
slicks 34:14
if you need a larger gear then you will have to use a larger front ring as you will have skipping problems with anything less than 14 on the back.
I Found this gives a usable top speed without spinning out all the time, plus it's easy enough to start off with & get up hills with a bit of effort, although when I added SPD's onto the bike it helped a lot.
When I first built it I had 32/16 & it just didn't work on the road, I would sprint & spin out then free wheel then repeat, with 44/16 I have a gear that I can constantly pedal.
I also use the SS bike for MTB routes on Knobblies so it'll remain at 32/16 until doomsday
Kona Jake the Snake
Merlin Malt 4
1. Should the front chainring be a middle or an outer?
2. Do I need a singlespeed specific chain?
3. Which tensioner is better - a jockey wheel type or roller?
Cheers, lawson_m20....
Cheers,
W.
I have vertical dropouts so will need a tensioner...... regarding chainrings - can I use any chainring, or are there SS specific ones that I should be looking at?
I am looking forward to spending some time buying kit this afternoon
J