Noise from rear of bike
peloton7000
Posts: 25
The last couple of times been out of my Boardman, can hear a rattling noise from the rear, especially over bumpy roads.
Took the wheel off today and it seems to be caused by the rear cassette. Noticed that a few of the smaller cogs have slight movement. Is this a sign that the cassette is worn or just needs tighten up? Bike's done 2k miles.
Took the wheel off today and it seems to be caused by the rear cassette. Noticed that a few of the smaller cogs have slight movement. Is this a sign that the cassette is worn or just needs tighten up? Bike's done 2k miles.
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Comments
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if there is slight play in each set of cogs in the direction of rotation, it may mean there is damage to the splines of the freehub body. if it is play in and out of the axle direction it may just mean the cassette cap is loose. A loose cap will also help wear the splines.--
Burls Ti Tourer for Tarmac, Saracen aluminium full suss for trails0 -
Check that there isn't any play of the freehub body/hub interface. I had a bloody annoying creak/crack etc. Turned out that a little bit of play had developed, only needed nipping up (two 5mm hex keys in the axle) and hey-presto, silence.
I'd covered about 1400 miles on my wheels, maybe a little less.
Worth checking out fella0 -
andrewjoseph wrote:if there is slight play in each set of cogs in the direction of rotation, it may mean there is damage to the splines of the freehub body. if it is play in and out of the axle direction it may just mean the cassette cap is loose. A loose cap will also help wear the splines.
Its play in the direction of the wheel rotation0 -
peloton7000 wrote:andrewjoseph wrote:if there is slight play in each set of cogs in the direction of rotation, it may mean there is damage to the splines of the freehub body. if it is play in and out of the axle direction it may just mean the cassette cap is loose. A loose cap will also help wear the splines.
Its play in the direction of the wheel rotation
possible that you have worn the splines on the freehub body. This does happen eventually anyway.
If you don't have the tools to take your cassette off, then take the rear wheel to your lbs and ask them to take a look.
you may need a new freehub and possibly a new cassette, depending on the wear on both.--
Burls Ti Tourer for Tarmac, Saracen aluminium full suss for trails0 -
Sounds like the cassette lockring wasn't on tight enough, leading to the sprockets moving and 'fretting' the freehub body. If done up properly, they simply don't come loose - yours sounds like its been assembled incorrectly and any damage should be down to Halford to rectify.Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..0
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If it is a 10 speed cassette on a 9 or 10 speed compatible aluminium splined freehub body then the cogs can eat into the splines. This happened on some wheels I had, which I used with a 10 speed cassette. Steel bodied Shimano freehubs are fine, or 10 speed only freehubs are fine (they have taller splines).
However, I still wouldn't expect them to be loose, just to have dug in a bit, the looseness suggests a loose lockring (as above). I have had one of mine come loose from time to time, the lockring usually needs tightening to 40nm I think, in the end I had to use threadlock as even correct torquing didn't resolve it.0 -
Got a tool off a mate today, lock ring undone just by hand, tightened back to 40Nm and all is well.0