why do spokes on my rear wheel keep breaking....?

PBo
PBo Posts: 2,493
edited July 2009 in The workshop
....i'm guessing cr@p wheel in the first place, probably needs every spoke to be totally checked/tightened?

all ideas gratefully received....

to be honest, not impressed with decathlon who repaired the first spoke, as even if wheel wasn't in good shape, would have expected them to have trued/tensioned the wheel with new spoke in....

thanks

PBo

Comments

  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    on a poor build when one starts going the rest will be following on soon after.

    Even if they trued and tensioned it (which the should have done anyway) the rest of the spokes will be ready to fail soon after.

    Sorry rebuild or new wheel.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
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  • benno68
    benno68 Posts: 1,689
    How old is the wheel?

    I had this problem on my Giant Defy 2 rear wheel within a month of buying it. My LBS ended up "cross spoking" the left side (left if you're sitting on the bike) and - touch wood - I've had no problems since. I didn't realise but they noticed that it was the spokes on the left of the hub that were going, none on the right (which was already cross spoked).

    If yours has radial spoking on the left as mine was it maybe worth opting for cross spoking both sides which is more robust, so I'm told.
    _________________________________________________

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  • fossyant
    fossyant Posts: 2,549
    Poor build and tension. Unless you know what you are doing, then it could be a new wheel.

    Most cheaper factory wheels are rubbish ! I broke 6-7 spokes on a cheap set of wheels on my MTB when commuting - I was able to replace all and re-tension the wheel - it's fine now....... although it's now in off road mode, now my new commuter is with me.
  • dilemna
    dilemna Posts: 2,187
    Wheel rebuild using decent spokes is the only real option if you want to stop breakages A hand built wheel providing it is built properly is a lot stronger than a factory built wheel. Check the condition of your rim first. Not much point if it is worn to use this so replace this as well. Also check your hub is still in good condition.
    Life is like a roll of toilet paper; long and useful, but always ends at the wrong moment. Anon.
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  • cycleNoodle
    cycleNoodle Posts: 80
    Could be a poor build or sometimes if alu nipples are used they tend to be quite weak.
    www.Bigmech.co.uk
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  • PBo
    PBo Posts: 2,493
    thanks for replys guys - hadn't checked back to my post for a while......

    yeah strangely all on same side - non drive, rear - but were already cross spoked.

    the wheel's not old or worn, but it's not an expensive bike - so i suppose you get what you pay for!

    PBo
  • duron1
    duron1 Posts: 2,475
    the tension on the non drive side is usually slighlty higher than the drive side, it might be worth seeing if the wheel is dished correctly. You could possibly tighten all the non drive side spokes up around 1/4 turn each to get a better tension.
    Commuter: Saracen Vex '03 (Full XT drivetrain, Rockshox Tora 302 80mm, Conti Touring Plus..etc)

    MTB Hardtail: Orbea Satellite - Team Colours '08 (Full XTR drivetrain, Reba Teams, XC717s - Hope Pro II, Fire XC Pro 2.1...etc).
  • PBo
    PBo Posts: 2,493
    I thought that the drive side was more tensioned? Because of the cassette, the wheel would be off centre to the left, so the drive side needs more tension to pull the wheel right? No?

    PBo

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