specialized saddle problem

Davy-g
Davy-g Posts: 401
edited May 2009 in MTB workshop & tech
I had a set to with a rather largish rock out on the trail.. needless to say i came off worse...dunno how my saddle and the rails came to be seperated though..spent about an hour trying to get the two parts fitted back together again..
The saddle is the standard fitted one that came with my Spesh FSR XC Comp 09 model.
I have tried fitting one end into it's slot and then try to bend the other end(s) into their respective holes and vice versa... just wont fit back it at all, i would need the strength of Schwarzenegger to get the saddle and the rails mated back together... or is that the problem? once they spring out then It's hello new saddle????

any help would be greatly appreciated.. :D :shock:

saddle.JPG

Comments

  • Bobhellen
    Bobhellen Posts: 154
    get a new one
    "we're a forum of pointless upgraders, depreciation maximisers, and diminishing returns addicts"
  • weedy1
    weedy1 Posts: 143
    Or try unsrewing the nose plastic part. Slot the rails in at the back. Slide front plastic bit over the bend and screw back onto the saddle.






    Maybe. :D
  • Davy-g
    Davy-g Posts: 401
    weedy1 wrote:
    Or try unsrewing the nose plastic part. Slot the rails in at the back. Slide front plastic bit over the bend and screw back onto the saddle.

    had tried that and tried unscrewing the rear screws also... :(:(
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    get a new one. it is just about impossible to get refitted.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • cycledocabe
    cycledocabe Posts: 1
    At impact the saddle bowed beneath you (that's why you did not need obstetric surgery!) The bowing was enough to pull the prongs of the rails out of their intended sockets.
    May I suggest you reverse the process by bending the saddle (i.e. exagerating its natural curve) while the rails are clamped. Brute force and an extra pair of hands and a vice will be needed. The machines that put these bits together are stronger than Arnold.
    Each year worldwide 1 to 4 individuals come to need pelvic/perineal surgery following such a saddle failure i. e. they take a second or more impacts without the benefit of a saddle.
  • hucking_fell
    hucking_fell Posts: 1,056
    Heating the saddle up in wot water might make it more flexible. Then it's just brute strength. Try standing on the front and back of the saddle with it's centre raised up on something, to flex it and widen the space for the rails. Wear safety specs. Good luck.
    More freerange chicken than Freeride God
    Bighit , 5 , BFe
  • Davy-g
    Davy-g Posts: 401
    Thanks for all the replies.... will get a new saddle methinks.... :wink:
  • BigStu2
    BigStu2 Posts: 794
    Wait, The exact same thing happened to me with my specialized saddle no less :lol: Yes it can be fixed and I believe I still have a jig I made in the garage to prove it. Nope I cant find it but I can remember using 3 G-clamps and a short plank of wood inserted in-between the saddle. The saddle should be mounted between 2 blocks of wood (fore and aft and thick enough to allow the rails to bend a sufficient amount) over a narrow work bench or 5" wide plank held firmly in a vice or clamped to your work bench, Place the short length of wood on top of the rails and slowly crank down the clamps that are fitted to each side of the short plank, when you will see rails start to bend slip the rear on first then the nose, Voila.
    .........all
    ...at........work
    fun..................&
    ..no.............no
    .....is......play
  • nferrar
    nferrar Posts: 2,511
    Even if I could snap it back into place I'm not sure I'd want to ride on it again :p
  • Davy-g
    Davy-g Posts: 401
    BigStu2 wrote:
    Wait, The exact same thing happened to me with my specialized saddle no less :lol: Yes it can be fixed and I believe I still have a jig I made in the garage to prove it. Nope I cant find it but I can remember using 3 G-clamps and a short plank of wood inserted in-between the saddle. The saddle should be mounted between 2 blocks of wood (fore and aft and thick enough to allow the rails to bend a sufficient amount) over a narrow work bench or 5" wide plank held firmly in a vice or clamped to your work bench, Place the short length of wood on top of the rails and slowly crank down the clamps that are fitted to each side of the short plank, when you will see rails start to bend slip the rear on first then the nose, Voila.

    a few pics would be a great help 8) as I am not 100% sure of how I would set up and use the jig...

    I have bought a new saddle, but it would be good to repair the old one and keep as a spare....

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