Removing Shimano Hollowtech Cranks - a real dumb question
Recently I've got the typical annoying click coming from what seems to be the left hand side of my bb / crank when I put a fair bit of pressure on the pedals, one click per pedal cycle. I'm trying to eliminate the cause and want to remove the crank. They're Ultegra hollowtech II cranks. Easy enough removing the cap and bolts from the crank arm.
Here's the dumb question. How do I get the crank arm off? The axle is splined and appears to go right up to the end of the crank arm so there's no opportunity to use a crank puller. As it happens as well as the compact crank I've got fitted to the bike ATM I've got the original standard crankset (also a hollowtech ii) which supports this view.
So do I just get hold of the crank and give it a bloody good tug? The documentation isn't a whole lot of help.
http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/Ultegra/SI_1JR0A_002/SI_1JR0A_002_En_v1_m56577569830646789.pdf
See, I told you it was a dumb question. Thanks for the help in advance
Here's the dumb question. How do I get the crank arm off? The axle is splined and appears to go right up to the end of the crank arm so there's no opportunity to use a crank puller. As it happens as well as the compact crank I've got fitted to the bike ATM I've got the original standard crankset (also a hollowtech ii) which supports this view.
So do I just get hold of the crank and give it a bloody good tug? The documentation isn't a whole lot of help.
http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/Ultegra/SI_1JR0A_002/SI_1JR0A_002_En_v1_m56577569830646789.pdf
See, I told you it was a dumb question. Thanks for the help in advance
"The only absolute statement is that everything is relative" - anon
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pull."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
1. Unscrew plastic part #5 with TL-FC16.
2. Make sure the stopper plate is pulled down as in the left side sketch
of the blowup.
3. Unscrew BOTH allen hex screws on the crank arm.
4.Remove left side crank arm(NO pullers are to be used). It should come off with a
simple tug or two. It is only clamped on.
5. You may now, if you wish, remove the right side arm and rings by simply pulling
on them.0 -
Thanks guys. Whenever I use brute force and ignorance I tend to regret it later. Now at least with your help I've removed the ignorance component!!! Cheers"The only absolute statement is that everything is relative" - anon0
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I have exactly the same problem (the clicking, not the ham fisted maintenance), it goes when the crank is tightened up again but it only lasts for about 200 miles and it starts again
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NapoleonD wrote:I have exactly the same problem (the clicking, not the ham fisted maintenance), it goes when the crank is tightened up again but it only lasts for about 200 miles and it starts again
I had some clicking/creaking on the left side arm a while back. In the end I think it was because I had set the pressure against the bearing to high(ham fisted-more is better). Loosened it up and low and behold - cured. I think, so far. Until the next maddening noise comes along.0 -
Going to remove, grease and replace the crank a bit later. If that doesn't work I might have an enthusiastic fiddle with the BB. Next I'll be posting "So how do you open up one of these integrated Giant bottom brackets...." Watch this space
The annoying thing is that the bike is so quiet without this little noise that it seems 10 times worse than it really is. Grrr..."The only absolute statement is that everything is relative" - anon0 -
dennisn wrote:NapoleonD wrote:I have exactly the same problem (the clicking, not the ham fisted maintenance), it goes when the crank is tightened up again but it only lasts for about 200 miles and it starts again
I had some clicking/creaking on the left side arm a while back. In the end I think it was because I had set the pressure against the bearing to high(ham fisted-more is better). Loosened it up and low and behold - cured. I think, so far. Until the next maddening noise comes along.
How do you mean 'pressure against the bearing'?0 -
heh, looks like NapD is hoping he'll get more than 200 miles between tightenings if only "pressure against the bearing" can be decoded. Waiting with bated breath...."The only absolute statement is that everything is relative" - anon0
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NapoleonD wrote:dennisn wrote:NapoleonD wrote:I have exactly the same problem (the clicking, not the ham fisted maintenance), it goes when the crank is tightened up again but it only lasts for about 200 miles and it starts again
I had some clicking/creaking on the left side arm a while back. In the end I think it was because I had set the pressure against the bearing to high(ham fisted-more is better). Loosened it up and low and behold - cured. I think, so far. Until the next maddening noise comes along.
How do you mean 'pressure against the bearing'?
When you tighten the plastic cap with the plastic tool this puts pressure against the BB bearings on both sides. Apparently you need SOME pressure but not tons. Since I will admit to being ham fisted I assume that I had used a bit to much force in "snugging" it up
and this caused some creaking. Maybe I do need a torque wrench but don't think there
is any way to use one in that situation. On another post I had asked about this type of thing and someone lead me to a video that was very helpful.
http://www.hopegb.com/page_mep_force_58.html0 -
SOOPER!
Cheers Dennis.0 -
Excellent video too.0
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tum ti tum....hums innocently and goes back to garage to release the plastic cap a little...."The only absolute statement is that everything is relative" - anon0
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BTW this turned from a dumb question to a very helpful thread, so thanks Dennis"The only absolute statement is that everything is relative" - anon0
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If you happen to have Hollowtech 1, don't make the mistake I did today of trying to use a normal crank puller and wondering why the cranks weren't coming off... Oh yes, the spindle is hollow isn't it - d'oh! (The name should have given it away... :oops: ).
I nipped down to the LBS and picked up a little mushroom-shaped metal plug which blocks the hole in the end of the spindle and gives the crank puller something to push against.0
