Drop bar touring - where is the sweet spot?

GyatsoLa · April 2009

This may seem a silly question to those of you who've always toured on drop bars, but I've usually toured on flat bars - my last trip was the first with a drop barred roadbike. I'm attempting to build up a lightweight tourer and I'm struggling a bit to work out the right length of bike I need.

When I use my regular road bike or fixie I tend to start out on the hoods, but then gradually, as I tire, I work my way up, until I'm holding the 'curve' of the bar, or riding on the top of the bar. I put gel tabs under the tape on the top bar which I find very comfortable, but I'm always a little bothered about a hand position so far from the brake lever. A lot of roadies I see seem to ride all the time on the hoods or close to it.

Is this the right way, or does it imply that I need to bring the bars higher and closer to me? Should the 'natural' position be at the hoods?

pneumatic · April 2009

I tour on drops. 100+ kms per day, weeks at a time.

I find myself dividing my time between the curves of the bars, the hoods and the most comfortable position of all for the open road, which is wrists on the bars and hands resting on the edges of my Ortlieb bar bag. It is a kind of louche aero position. Obviously it doesn't give you much control and you are a tricky manoeuvre away from the brakes so it is, as I say, one for the open road.

the drops themselves are very comforting when dealing with headwinds, although I don't spend a lot of time down there because my paunch compromises my breathing.

I have never yet managed to tape my bars well enough to avoid slippage on the curves. Gaps just open up there as the days pass. I do have gel inserts now but find them a bit spongy. I'd rather wear good padded gloves TBH.

Hope that helps.

crankycrank · April 2009

Well, there are no set rules for hand positioning but many use the hoods as the main position and then you can use the tops to sit more upright and the drops in the wind or for just another position to ease stiffness. You can get a good range of movement this way with road bars but still some just don't get on with them and prefer flat bars with ends or the butterfly bars. It would be my guess that possibly your stem is too long or too low and that would explain why you always end up on the tops of the bars but again there is no rule saying the tops should not be used more often. If you're not feeling any excessive discomfort you may be OK with the setup you have.

Special K · April 2009

can you touch your toes comfortably? how tight are the muscles at the sides of your thighs? Consider this and consider how flat-backed you can get in any of your chosen positions then design from there - hard to do on your own which is why there is a market for Cyclefit. If you're not sure of your flexibility and comfort, then go short and upright

GyatsoLa · April 2009

Thanks for the tips. The reason I ask this is that I did to a Bikefit for a light touring /Cyclesportif, and I'm a bit puzzled about the results. I did one a few years ago for my mtb and found it fantastic, spot on.

Basically, I bought my first roadbike 5 years ago - it was set up by an experienced sports coach, but it took me a long time to get used to it. I was happy with it for rides of 2-3 hours, but for more I found it a strain. On advice, before I went off for a tour on the bike, I got a shorter stem. This worked quite well, but I always found the most comfortable spot to be on the top bar or along the sides (this may be because my bars are too narrow, according to the bikefit). I tried an even shorter stem as well, this seemed comfortable, but a disaster if I cycled out of the saddle, my knees hit the bar!

Anyway, to my surprise, the bikefitting recommended a set up pretty much identical to my original bike set up, which, as I said, I always found a little stretched and 'racy'. The only real difference is that it should be marginally higher and I should have a higher bar. So, I'm a bit confused!

BTW, I am 42, fairly flexible (I do yoga and pilates), but due to an accident a few years ago I have a stiff neck.

Special K · April 2009

The clue maybe the stiff neck - whilst the fittings you've had have taken into consideration all the normal was of measuring reach, it maybe that you are compensating for a lack of movement in the neck and have a tendency to pull up perhaps? Anyway, I suppose this is a case of trial and error as it has been for me over the years - my fitness/flexibility has varied somehwat and fittings have not always made sense. I have an old whiplash injury, so I can sympathise.

GyatsoLa · April 2009

Thanks special k, your comments have been very helpful. I guess I'll just have to keep altering it to get it right. I've been doing this for years and never quite getting it perfect!

BTW, on my last comment above, I said my bars should be higher - I meant 'wider'.

Brian NZ · May 2009

but as a rule of thumb for my touring bike/bikes. I set the seat set back etc first so the knee is directly above the pedal crank. get the seat hieght right. and the seat level. For a starting point then put the handle bar at seat height or just above and then rest my elbow on the front of the seat and the middle of the handle bar is in line with the end of my longest finger or up to 5 mm shorter. I have the hoods right up around the curve on the bars. Unless they are shallow bars I have to have a spacer in the brakes so I can reach them. I can climb in and out out of the saddle and have done 6 to 7 hr saddle time days and have been comfortable.
I know it is not very scientific but it works for me so hey! it may work for you too.
I can ride on the drops for hours if I have to into a head wind, because they aren't too low. But normally alternate between the hoods, first choice, Curves. 2nd and tops 3rd.
I hope this helps
Cheers Brian

priory · May 2009

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Adjustable-Stem-6 ... 1|294%3A50

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/matt-black-1-1-8- ... 1|294%3A50

One of these will allow you to adjust until you get it right or every time the weather changes.
If you want to lower it you can move the shims from below to above the stem in no time also.
In the unlikely event that you want to change it for a fixed version you will be able to work out what you need to get it right after riding with the adjustable one.

TerryJ

Drop bar touring - where is the sweet spot?

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