New chain
dboden
Posts: 349
Hello I have bought and fitted a new SRAM PC991 chain.
The rear cassette is in good condition, but the front middle ring seems a little worn, obviously as this gets used 75% of the time.
Would it be best to replace this?
Will it damage the chain if I don't?
The rear cassette is in good condition, but the front middle ring seems a little worn, obviously as this gets used 75% of the time.
Would it be best to replace this?
Will it damage the chain if I don't?
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Comments
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It would be better to do it at the same time if you can, then your drivetrain's sorted for a good while.Be happy, communicate happiness.0
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if you replace a chain before it gets to 1% usually thats all you have to change. After a few chains the whole lot needs to be done ideally.Giant TCR advanced 2 (Summer/race)
Merlin single malt fixie (Commuter/winter/training)
Trek superfly 7 (Summer XC)
Giant Yukon singlespeed conversion (winter MTB/Ice/snow)
Carrera virtuoso - RIP0 -
If you have fitted it, and there are no probs, I'd leave it!0
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dboden wrote:The rear cassette is in good condition, but the front middle ring seems a little worn, obviously as this gets used 75% of the time.Would it be best to replace this?Will it damage the chain if I don't?
So one day I bought just the chain and - surprise surprise - the drive train didn't fall to bits and - shock horror - the gears still shifted just great. If the teeth on the cassette/chain rings are hooked then maybe they need replacing but otherwise it's a waste of time and money.0 -
Update: Chain replaced,
I then found that the front middle seemed to stick? I was actually convinced it needed changing, so I did,
It now runs really sweet at the front, I then had to re-index the gears slightly, (1st time I have done this, but all the gears seem to now work fine, up and down)
1 problem remaining, the chain seems to slip slightly at the rear, under hard pedaling,
Could this be the rear cassette that also now needs replacing?
Or is this common, and the chain will bed in?
I am assuming the indexing cannot affect this?0 -
if the chain is slipping over the cogs then yes. As long as the chain is the correct length and there are no stiff links.
If it is actually the cassette slipping over the hub then that is something else"Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
After what I have been doing, I am just presuming that it is the chain slipping over the cassette, As it only happens with heavy pressure whilst cycling, it is very difficult to actually see what is happening?0
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I always replace my chain at 0.75% stretch. Since I got my new bike last May, I've had 5 chains on it, including the one it came with. The cassette has been fine until the last change, so that got replaced then, the front chain rings are still fine though.
I'm tempted to see which is most economical, regular chain changing, or waiting until the whole lot is knackered and replacing it all! Has anybody ever worked it out?
SRAM 991 chain - £22.50 *4 = £90 (plus the original)
SRAM 990 Cassette - £47.50
RaceFace 32t Team Chain ring - £30 (not required yet)
Probably not much in it. I've spent £137.50 on chains and a cassette.
If I'd replaced the lot just once it would have been £103, but how many times would I have needed to change the lot?0 -
Mancunianfightingcat wrote:I always replace my chain at 0.75% stretch. Since I got my new bike last May, I've had 5 chains on it, including the one it came with. The cassette has been fine until the last change, so that got replaced then, the front chain rings are still fine though.
I'm tempted to see which is most economical, regular chain changing, or waiting until the whole lot is knackered and replacing it all! Has anybody ever worked it out?
SRAM 991 chain - £22 *4 = £90 (plus the original)
SRAM 990 Cassette - £47.50
RaceFace 32t Team Chain ring - £30 (not required yet)
Probably not much in it. I've spent £137.50 on chains and a cassette.
If I'd replaced the lot just once it would have been £103, but how many times would I have needed to change the lot?
probably once or twice by now. I think it tends to work out cheaper to change chains (esp if you have three chainrings to worry about). Chaning vhains also prevents the degredation in performance from wear as well I tend to find.Giant TCR advanced 2 (Summer/race)
Merlin single malt fixie (Commuter/winter/training)
Trek superfly 7 (Summer XC)
Giant Yukon singlespeed conversion (winter MTB/Ice/snow)
Carrera virtuoso - RIP0 -
I got around 2000 offroad miles out of the standard transmission on my stumpy HT, before the chain snapped, still changing OK. Found out about this chain checking malarkey, and now change the chain at .75% stretch (about 250 miles), so now I'm doing 8 chains and two cassettes for 2000 miles, think I'll revert back to waiting til the chain snaps again LOL.......2009 Cove Handjob
2009 Cove Hummer0