Stiff link and chain shortening

tomfoolery
tomfoolery Posts: 56
edited February 2009 in The workshop
Hi all,

Coming home on Friday night everything was fine and my hybrid was shifting nicely. Popped out yesterday and it was skipping really badly and trying to jump out of gear all the time. Took a look at it and there was a stiff link. The inside of one of the inner links had a gouge in it that was fouling the roller.

So I bought a chain tool and popped out the link and shorted the chain by an inch. I've just been round the block once and everything seems ok. I'm wondering, though:

- what are the consequences of shortening the chain by an inch
- is it wrong to reuse the pin (I've got a vague feeling you shouldn't)
- anything else to watch out for?

I'm going to use it tomorrow, maybe being a bit cautious about standing up and accelerating hard away from junctions just in case.

Thanks for any tips.
I've forgotten my PIN for the pain barrier.

Comments

  • cjcp
    cjcp Posts: 13,345
    You may find that the chain won't shift to the largest sprocket (or two) when in the largest chain ring. The chain will also be tighter, which cause more pressure on the chain than you want. Have you checked why one of the links had a problem?
    FCN 2-4.

    "What happens when the hammer goes down, kids?"
    "It stays down, Daddy."
    "Exactly."
  • el_presidente
    el_presidente Posts: 1,963
    Don't go big front & big rear or you might rip your mech off. You can usually loosen a stiff link with some lube and a tweak of the chain tool, ratther than just taking it out. If it's a Shimano chain they are funny about reusing links, not sure why.
    <a>road</a>
  • gs3
    gs3 Posts: 249
    Take out the offending link and replace with a SRAM Powerlink (make sure it's for the correct size [speed] of chain though).

    Good as new
    BouncePlayCommute
  • tomfoolery
    tomfoolery Posts: 56
    cjcp wrote:
    Have you checked why one of the links had a problem?

    There was a gouge on the inside of an inner link which had pushed the metal either side out so it was much wider than it should be. I'd have had to have ground/filed it back down to correct width which seemed like too much effort, and perhaps it would have been weaker anyway.
    el_presidente wrote:
    Don't go big front & big rear or you might rip your mech off. You can usually loosen a stiff link with some lube and a tweak of the chain tool, ratther than just taking it out. If it's a Shimano chain they are funny about reusing links, not sure why.

    I generally don't go big front and rear (unless it's dark and I've forgotten I'm in top set). I tried moving from side to side but but it was too badly damaged for that.
    gs3 wrote:
    Take out the offending link and replace with a SRAM Powerlink (make sure it's for the correct size [speed] of chain though).

    Good as new


    Do these just work for outer links or inner links too? I had a problem with an inner link, which I had to bin, so had to chuck the next outer link as well so I could join it. I'd like to fit a powerlink to correct the length but it's the inner piece that really needs replacing.
    I've forgotten my PIN for the pain barrier.
  • gs3
    gs3 Posts: 249
    Ah, I see!

    The powerlink is only for replacing outer links.
    BouncePlayCommute
  • tomfoolery
    tomfoolery Posts: 56
    So is my only option a new chain? Seems a bit strange that you can buy extra outer links but not inner ones.
    I've forgotten my PIN for the pain barrier.
  • gs3
    gs3 Posts: 249
    You could always take an inner link from another chain (of same width [speed] obviously) and "re-build" your chain using TWO Powerlinks, one either side of your 'new' inner link. The SRAM links are as strong as the original chain links anyway. Total cost = 2x Powerlinks.(£3-4 approx).
    BouncePlayCommute
  • gs3
    gs3 Posts: 249
    You could always take an inner link from another chain (of same width [speed] obviously) and "re-build" your chain using TWO Powerlinks, one either side of your 'new' inner link. The SRAM links are as strong as the original chain links anyway. Total cost = 2x Powerlinks.(£3-4 approx).
    BouncePlayCommute
  • tomfoolery
    tomfoolery Posts: 56
    OK thanks for the tips everyone.

    Think it's probably a case for a new chain. Can't see me finding replacement inner links anywhere. I'll ask at the LBS though just in case they've got anything. Don't really want to put on some really worn parts though.
    I've forgotten my PIN for the pain barrier.
  • mostly harmless
    mostly harmless Posts: 162
    Alternatively, buy a new chain (you'll need one at some stage) and take a link out of that (they're always too long) and fix your current chain. When the current chain dies you then have a new one sitting in your box of bits ready.
  • tomfoolery
    tomfoolery Posts: 56
    mostly harmless wrote:
    Alternatively, buy a new chain (you'll need one at some stage) and take a link out of that (they're always too long) and fix your current chain. When the current chain dies you then have a new one sitting in your box of bits ready.

    Aha! I didn't know they always came long. Right, I know what I'm doing. New chain, 2 x powerlinks, put new link in old chain with 2 sets of powerlinks, and have spare chain for the future.

    Cracking. Thanks guys.
    I've forgotten my PIN for the pain barrier.

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