changing pedals

nonnac85
nonnac85 Posts: 1,608
edited April 2008 in MTB workshop & tech
excuse my ignorance (i have never done this before) - i am going to get some new (flat) pedals for my bike and therefore will need to remove the old ones.

Q1 - i have heard people say you do not need a pedal spanner as you can use a normal one - is this true?

Q2 - Are there any other special tools i need?

thanks in advance
My Website - Trail Centre info for the UK: MTB Trail Time

Comments

  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    you just need the correct sized spanner. pedal spanners tend to have a longer length.

    you just need to know which has the left hand thread.

    Parktools has the answer and pictures....
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • nonnac85
    nonnac85 Posts: 1,608
    thanks for the quick reply!

    one more thing...is there a certain type of grease to use (or avoid) e.g. the ones with added teflon etc?

    thanks again
    My Website - Trail Centre info for the UK: MTB Trail Time
  • redvee
    redvee Posts: 11,922
    Pedal spanners also have a thinner head, as the flats for them to grip can by quite slim on some pedals.
    I've added a signature to prove it is still possible.
  • Where are my stabilisers?
    Where are my stabilisers? Posts: 979
    I personally, had a bit of trouble geting my pedals off with a normal spanner because there wasn't enough leverage - sliced up my fingers badly when it slipped! I used some metal tubing over the spanner in the end for leverage and it was easy.
    http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss9/ ... lurLT2.jpg

    http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss9/ ... c611a8.jpg
  • god1406
    god1406 Posts: 554
    if you use a soft-nosed hammer and give the end of the spanner a swift whack it usually jolts the pedal free.
    Rocky Ridge

    Stuff
  • The Big Cheese
    The Big Cheese Posts: 8,651
    use an Anti-seize compound if you have some, of any grease is better than none -I use weldtite red-grease....

    Just position the spanner (i use a normal spanner) and give it a little help with a rubber mallet/hammer etc to free it up
  • nonnac85
    nonnac85 Posts: 1,608
    will give it a go with a normal spanner then. grease will soon be on its way from crc
    My Website - Trail Centre info for the UK: MTB Trail Time
  • tjm
    tjm Posts: 190
    use anti seize grease (most bike ones are anyway). Some general purpose types can promote corrosion between ally and steel.

    I've never found a normal spanner that fits the narrow flats on a pedal.
  • stumpyjon
    stumpyjon Posts: 4,069
    if you use a soft-nosed hammer and give the end of the spanner a swift whack it usually jolts the pedal free.

    Or in my case converts a 15mm spanner to a 15 point something mm spanner :lol: . LBS got the pedal off with a proper spanner in one go (after and hour of me trying with normal spanner and various hammers). If you're likely to want to remove your pedals again invest in something like the Park tools home mechanic spanner (£9.99) it may save a lot of hassle in the future. Oh and it doesn't hurt to periodically take the pedals off and regrease them to stop them seizing either (unlike me :oops: ).
    It's easier to ask for forgiveness than for permission.

    I've bought a new bike....ouch - result
    Can I buy a new bike?...No - no result
  • Marjory Stewart BAxtor
    Marjory Stewart BAxtor Posts: 508
    i use a normal 15mm spanner from halfords, never needed anything other than a firm couple of pushes to free the pedals, anything more and chances are you've got them too tight! i use weldtight lithium grease
    Train hard, ride easy
  • Vegeeta
    Vegeeta Posts: 6,411
    It's the left hand pedal that has the left hand thread!! Which is useful. Normally a good way to remember is that whenever you're removing pedals it's a pain in the ass because the cranks want to move backwards as you do it.

    Luckily though that means it's easy to torque them up afterwards though! Make sure you do them to a minimum of 35Nm. That's quite a lot if you don't have a torque wrench.

    Grease wise, I'd suggest anything with copper in it or just some copper slip. It's a self lubricating metal so it makes a really good anti seize compound. Personally though I use Shimano's anti seize.

    Oh and remember when you come to install your new pedals the best thing to do is get them to thread in by hand first so you know you've not cross threaded them (you'd have to be really strong to do that by hand!). If they're not going in smoothly, either get a bike shop to clean the thread or buy yourself a set of 9/16th pedal taps!
    Rule 64:

    Cornering confidence generally increases with time and experience. This pattern continues until it falls sharply and suddenly.

    http://www.velominati.com/blog/the-rules/

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