How much lateral movement should a rear wheel have?

fearby
fearby Posts: 245
edited November 2007 in Workshop
Just got a new rear wheel (36 spoke Mavic Open Pro) with a Powertap hub but I am not too sure the build is so good.

Climbing inevitably results in the rim rubbing on both brake blocks alternately with brake blocks giving a good 7-10mm clearance when the rim is spun. Also there is about 5 - 10 mm of movement laterally when the rim is pushed. Is this normal or do I need to get the wheel tightened?
:?:

Comments

  • alfablue
    alfablue Posts: 8,497
    10mm sound like way too much!
  • ademort
    ademort Posts: 1,924
    The clearance between brake blocks and rim should be 2-3mm, and no more.The wheel should run true when spun, with no play either side. When under stress like climbing or sprinting ther should be no more than 1-1.5mm play in the wheel, it should not touch the brake blocks. It sounds like your wheel needs to be checked immediately by an expert, remember safety first.
    ademort
    Chinarello, record and Mavic Cosmic Sl
    Gazelle Vuelta , veloce
    Giant Defy 4
    Mirage Columbus SL
    Batavus Ventura
  • Smokin Joe
    Smokin Joe Posts: 2,706
    Your wheel has not been built with enough tension in the spokes, something that is irritatingly common among many builders. It is not unsafe but it will probably keep going out of true as well as rubbing on the blocks, a good builder will tension it properly for you.
  • cougie
    cougie Posts: 22,512
    Waaay too much. A powerhub is a pricey piece of kit - £600+ - I'm really not sure your wheelbuilder is up to touching such stuff.
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    I got a pair of MAVIC CrossMaxx with my rig
    <
    and have no problem with them what-so-ever.
    They ran $800 but what else the price of quality.
  • fearby
    fearby Posts: 245
    Smokin Joe wrote:
    Your wheel has not been built with enough tension in the spokes, something that is irritatingly common among many builders. It is not unsafe but it will probably keep going out of true as well as rubbing on the blocks, a good builder will tension it properly for you.

    As I thought - will get my bike shop to true and tighten it. :wink:
  • Down the Road
    Down the Road Posts: 949
    What qualification has your wheel builder got?

    This is not an ART it is an Engineering procedure that is taught by experts not handed down inside the shop.

    If he sent the wheel out this poor then he can't build wheels
    Racing is life - everything else is just waiting
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    Taking it back to the shop that built it wrong in the first case seems a bit wrong, don't you think? I know you spent your money there, but if they don't fix it the first time you bring it back, avoid them completely.
    Just my 2¢ worth.
  • scherrit
    scherrit Posts: 360
    My powertaps are in shallow aero rims... cxp33 and an ambrosio of similar depth and are rock solid, good enough for fat old me in 32 hole. Hopefully some numpty has not built a 24spoke for a 16 stone rider, and then added insult to injury with too-low spoke tension. It does not sound good, tho'!

    Because PT wheels are commonly used for all the riding a rider does (i.e., not race day use only), we usually build them a bit extra beefy.... so usually 13/15 gauge (for fatties/sprinters) or 14/16 gauge spokes.

    Also need to bear in mind that basically the non-cassette side is the drive side of the hub...
    Good luck!
    If you're as fat as me, all bikes are bendy.
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    Down the Road wrote:
    What qualification has your wheel builder got?

    This is not an ART it is an Engineering procedure that is taught by experts not handed down inside the shop.

    If he sent the wheel out this poor then he can't build wheels


    :lol:

Categories