SR Suntour XCR Fork Problems
deanvw
Posts: 412
Hi was wondering if someone could help me,
I rode to a local quarry today and my forks were working fine until i went through a puddle which looked shallow but when i went through it, it was deeper than me! I rode onwards and i noticed a petrol like trail running behind me (you know, the pearly colour that petrol makes on water) they were dripping from the forks, and when i went over a bump the forks were ridged! They seamed as if they have stuck! How can I sort this out?
I rode to a local quarry today and my forks were working fine until i went through a puddle which looked shallow but when i went through it, it was deeper than me! I rode onwards and i noticed a petrol like trail running behind me (you know, the pearly colour that petrol makes on water) they were dripping from the forks, and when i went over a bump the forks were ridged! They seamed as if they have stuck! How can I sort this out?
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strip them and get the water out."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
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turn the bike upside down and pump the forks a few times. Does water come out?
this happened to my XCRs a few months back. They filled up, stiffened but kept working (they were the unstamped pogo-stick version so there was little in there to ruin I guess)
As they are suntors i suppose they wouldn't actually be worth servicing.Giant TCR advanced 2 (Summer/race)
Merlin single malt fixie (Commuter/winter/training)
Trek superfly 7 (Summer XC)
Giant Yukon singlespeed conversion (winter MTB/Ice/snow)
Carrera virtuoso - RIP0 -
nope, just very very very stiff. and they would be worth it to me to be serviced as i would have no forks otherwise0
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]unstamped pogo-stick version
What does that mean?
http://www.pinkbike.com/photo/1608321/
its these ^0 -
they all look the same. The ones i had didn't have any damping or lockout on them.
What I mean by not being worth servicing is they may not be worth as much as the service would cost. Mine were the most basic XCR forks and they were only worth £40.
You would have to look into the value of them vs the cost to repair though.Giant TCR advanced 2 (Summer/race)
Merlin single malt fixie (Commuter/winter/training)
Trek superfly 7 (Summer XC)
Giant Yukon singlespeed conversion (winter MTB/Ice/snow)
Carrera virtuoso - RIP0 -
cost to repair though.
12 pound including laubour to replace seals and grease up
talking to bike shop on email. they said its the seals that have jammed.0 -
They are full of water. Strip them, clean, regrease and put in the bin, I mean, back together.0
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So youve had them apart and done the above? Cleaned and regreased? Does yours have a lockout dial?0
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water and grease equals a dead fork. again strip clean and re grease. but TBH bin and get new."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
NoDoes yours have a lockout dial?
Will you buy me a pair?but TBH bin and get new.0 -
If there is no lockouts and hydraulic gubbins, then they are very very easy to service. You have to get all the moisture out, make sure the innards are spotloss, and grease the bushings and springs with non lithium grease.0
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ive taken the boots off and at the mo its drying
:roll: :roll: :roll:0 -
If there is no lockouts and hydraulic gubbins, then they are very very easy to service. You have to get all the moisture out, make sure the innards are spotloss, and grease the bushings and springs with non lithium grease
Thanks Supersonic for your help.
The innards, does that mean the boots? and the bushings are what are connected to the stantions?0 -
Boots? You need to take pull the lowers off the uppers, and clean.
Like so:
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sorry the lowers . i just call them the boots for some reason
do i grease the lowers up?0 -
Make sure is spotlessly clean and dry. The bushings ar he bearings, located below the seals. Add a thin layer to the area, and the seals. Add a thin layer to the stanchions and push rods. Push the stanchions back in, wipe off excess. Full exploded diagrams available on the SR site.0
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the spring stack will also need geasing as i guess they are lot oil bath lubed forks.
i would be generous with the grease
you really need to take the fork as far back as you can.
eg like this
a Marz. fork still mid service."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
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Take the top caps off. Be careful not to round the plastic caps. If the springs have not been taken out, the insides of the uppers are probably holding a lot of cack which will seep back into the lowers. Take them out, and clean grease inc the insides of the stanchions and the pushrods.0
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that is where you need to download the exploaded images from Suntours webby, linky in the sticky, and see how it is held together. things will need un doing.
but as i have no idea where you are with your forks i cant say.
get the pictures and have a look it should be reasonably visable."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
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No, he means look at the diagrams on the SR site. Shows how it all goes together.0
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but as i have no idea where you are with your forks i cant say
So i took a pic of where i was with taking them apart.0 -
you really need to get that diagram. The top caps need to be removed to release the springs.0
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You wanted opinions on where you were!0
