Cadence computers
Giant Rider
Posts: 17
On my cat eye computer its got cadence. Ive never used one before, so could someone explain what its meant to do and how best to read or use it?
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Cadence=pedal revolutions. Have you got set it up? A magnet goes on the crank amd the sensor fixes to the left-hand chainstay. Wire goes along the downtube. General endurance cadence 90-100rpm, time trialling 75-90rpm etc. Avoid going under 50rpm as it's bad for your knees. Sprinting can take you to 120-140rpm.0
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it was explained to me as a 'rev counter' for your bike.Gravity sucks0
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I used it for the first time to day, I did 45 miles in total.
How am I supposed to use the cadence meter? I was keeping an eye on the speed, averaging 15 mph. The cadence was 80. Was that about right for riding in London? What happens when you climb uphills or speed down them and have to change gears. Should I aim to stick to the same cadence, or stick to speed?0 -
Ignore speed. Use the cadence indicator to teach you what 90-100 feels like then use your gears to maintain this cadence. Also remember to "pedal in circles". Both of these will allow you to go faster and longer
Yes, but apart from the elephants, what have the Romans ever done for us?Yes, but apart from the elephants, what have the Romans ever done for us?0 -
Thanks everyone for their help.
Could you please explain to a newbie, how to 'pedal in circles'
TIA0 -
"Could you please explain to a newbie, how to 'pedal in circles'"
Pedalling force should be applied throughout the entire rotation. This makes you smoother, more efficient and also better balanced (most noticeable off-road). To start with you should not just pedal with a single lunge downwards on one side whilst the other foot is pushed up by the pedal. Assuming you have clipless pedals you should also be lifting on the other side. To really pedal 'in circles' means having a smooth consistent application of force throughout the entire rotation with a gradual transition down/back/up/forwards/down on each side during which the pedal is always loaded in the direction of rotation. Far easier to do than say!
It is something that does take practice but when you get it right it becomes an ingrained habit (and also feels 'right'). You'll feel the load coming through your legs smoothly rather than sporadically and you may also notice that you will be sitting very still on the bike without rocking.
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If North Yorks Council spent as much on the roads each year as I do on my bike then I could spend less on my bike...~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
If North Yorks Council spent as much on the roads each year as I do on my bike then I could spend less on my bike...0 -
cadence and heartrate are more important than speed.
For myself I try and keep my cadence to an average of 85, which I find I can easily spin and accelerate if needed. On hills i try never to let the cadence go below 70, but still try to kepp it to around 80. Anythnig below this and I feel im just slogging the pedals.0 -
Good advice ghitchen/bigdawg.
I read that anything between 60-120 is good.
Initially I found it really tough pedalling at 90/100.
Personally, I ride around 90, and actually increase to 100/105 when climbing... admittedly when I get really tired, instead of grinding I stop.
I find that riding in groups help keep my cadence from flagging, just because I'm more aware of what I'm doing in relation to the group in the same way that if the pace sags, someone usually takes over.
If you're on a circular route, a focus on cadence/pedal pressure makes more sense, as you'll grind up, and fly down thereby averaging out your speed.0
