Dual Ring Crank set-up
CarlNottm78
Posts: 67
Alright folks,
I'm changing from 3 rings to 2 rings up-front.
I need to keep a 22 small ring as I do use it for steep Peaks climbs...but, as I will now only have 2 rings, I want the second one to be as big as possible.
So...how much bigger can the second ring be compared to the small ring?
She's got a filthy mind:
http://www.pinkbike.com/photo/1091348/
I'm changing from 3 rings to 2 rings up-front.
I need to keep a 22 small ring as I do use it for steep Peaks climbs...but, as I will now only have 2 rings, I want the second one to be as big as possible.
So...how much bigger can the second ring be compared to the small ring?
She's got a filthy mind:
http://www.pinkbike.com/photo/1091348/
0
Comments
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If your granny ring's a 22 tooth, <i>I</i> wouldn't go bigger than 36 tooth.
<hr noshade size="1"><center><font size="1"><font color="black">Norco. (Very Old Photo)</font id="black"> </center></font id="size1"><hr noshade size="1">0 -
So will my front derailleur be able to bridge the gap between 22 and 36?
I'm guessing they have a maximum amount they can change between rings, but can't find the info, even on Shimano site.
I can see that most cranksets as standard don't come with a gap greater than 12 teeth (normally between the middle and outer ring)
She's got a filthy mind:
http://www.pinkbike.com/photo/1091348/0 -
Ok, this is getting mor complicated now!
On Shimano site it says MINIMUM difference between outer and middle ring must be 12 (doesn't really help me here) and that the difference between inner and outer ring should not exceed 22...HOWEVER, this still doesn't answer my q re: the maximum tooth difference between inner and middle ring!
She's got a filthy mind:
http://www.pinkbike.com/photo/1091348/0 -
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Yeah, that would work fine if I was keeping my current middle ring, but I actually want to replace it to compensate slightly for losing the outer ring.
Its currently 22 inner and 32 middle...I want to increase the size of the middle to 34, 36 or 38 (I'm guessing 38 would be taking it a little too far for practical use - a 22/38 combo seems to leave a huge gap between gears)
She's got a filthy mind:
http://www.pinkbike.com/photo/1091348/0 -
Do you use the very lowest gear? If not go to 24 36, if you do the 22 34 is probably the max you should go to.
My Scott
My Single Speed
Always remember to pick your Uni according to the local trails or you'll be stuck with nowhere to ride for three years!0 -
This is just it, when I'm riding in the Peaks (fairly often) I really do use the 22, which is why I don't want to loose this...its the middle one thats in question. Hm, maybe I should suffer and move up to 24 inner...24/36 does sound like a copromise (36 allowing enough for descents)...just wondering how ofetn I'll find myself needing the 22...
She's got a filthy mind:
http://www.pinkbike.com/photo/1091348/0 -
What cassette are you running, you could go from 22,32 with an 11-32 to 24-36 with an 11-34 cassette, wider spaces but bigger range.
My Scott
My Single Speed
Always remember to pick your Uni according to the local trails or you'll be stuck with nowhere to ride for three years!0 -
Actually currently running 11 - 34, starting to think could probably run 24/36...it is very rare that I use the 34 on the rear. The 30 on the rear is normally as far as I need go
She's got a filthy mind:
http://www.pinkbike.com/photo/1091348/0 -
I'm sure a front mech will shift from a 22 to a 36t.
I'd imagine it would be quite a common choice to swop the 32t for a 36t when switching to a double setup.
That's a setup I'm contemplating too for a bike I just want to use mostly offroad.
Onroad, I find I really need a triple with a 44t outer but could live with a 22/36 for offroad with little bits of tarmac between bridleways.
Don't forget to set your front mech stop so that you don't grind your chain onto your bashring.
I agree with the sentiments about keeping the 22t, some people on here must be olympic level athletes if they can climb some of the hills I go on without needing a 22tDave S0 -
You should try it, if you cannot shift down the you'll be amazed what you can get away with. My friend borrow my ss and went riding with me yesterday, sure it wasn't anything ridiculous but he managed to blast up the hills no trouble.
Also it isn't so much losing the 22 as changing to 24, which a much smaller change than you'd think.
My Scott
My Single Speed
Always remember to pick your Uni according to the local trails or you'll be stuck with nowhere to ride for three years!0 -
As your're from Manchester Dave, you'll probably know too well that for almost any loop in the Dark Peak, you really do use the 22!
I'm just worried that 22 / 36 is too big a gap - cranksets don't come as standard with a gap greater than 12 teeth, and thats 14 - will I be missing too may of the gears inbetween?
I do 95 percent off-raod, only using road to link, and really just want to keep high speeds descending off-road.
She's got a filthy mind:
http://www.pinkbike.com/photo/1091348/0 -
Ok, so I think it boil down to this...is the jump from 22 - 24 too big?
If not I can run 24 / 36.
Or, if I don't miss any gears running a 22 / 36 setup, I have the best of both worlds...hating decisions right now!
She's got a filthy mind:
http://www.pinkbike.com/photo/1091348/0 -
Well buy a œ5 steel deore 24 and run it for a weekend and do your favourite/steepest trails and see if you can cope, if so then robert is most certainly your mothers brother. If not then go for 22-34.
My Scott
My Single Speed
Always remember to pick your Uni according to the local trails or you'll be stuck with nowhere to ride for three years!0 -
When I've worked out how it works
, I think this is the scientfic way to work out if I'd be mising any gears and / or the gaps between each gear:
http://www.panix.com/~jbarrm/cycal/cycal.30f.html
She's got a filthy mind:
http://www.pinkbike.com/photo/1091348/0 -
If you never use your 34t on the back, only 30 then you could switch to 24t or even 26t (this gives a similar ratio as 22:30) and ue your largest cassete cog. Then you could use a 36t or 38t on the front, jobs a good un.
<hr noshade size="1">You bend it, you mend it.<hr noshade size="1">You bend it, you mend it.0 -
CarlNottm78, yes you're right I've done some horrific climbs in Dark Peak so this is why I have to keep my triple chainset or double no matter how wrong a triple chainset might look on my bikes I just need those gears.
For practical purposes I'd be pushing my bike half the time on my fave rides if I didn't have a 22t and I really hate it when I have push my bike uphill (although I sometimes have to admit defeat).
I'm pretty sure I'll be trying the 22/36t double setup in a couple of months time with an 11-32 cassette. I've shifted up bigger tooth gaps on other chainsets in the past so I think it will be fine albeit a little bit of a clunky gear chain when you go onto the bigger ring.Dave S0 -
I found 26/38 ideal on a heavier bike, but that had a racing cassette. On my XC bike I usually just a 38 up front and it gets me up the hills just fine, you get used to it. But try out a few different ratios if you can and see what works best for you. Whether or not the front mech can handle a 14 tooth shift will depend on the design of the middle ring.
<center><font color="red"><b>My Scott</b></font id="red"></center>0 -
I run a 22 and 36 on my versus and it works fine. http://s148.photobucket.com/albums/s23/ ... dtab=video<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by CarlNottm78</i>
Yeah, that would work fine if I was keeping my current middle ring, but I actually want to replace it to compensate slightly for losing the outer ring.
Its currently 22 inner and 32 middle...I want to increase the size of the middle to 34, 36 or 38 (I'm guessing 38 would be taking it a little too far for practical use - a 22/38 combo seems to leave a huge gap between gears)
She's got a filthy mind:
http://www.pinkbike.com/photo/1091348/
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