Old bike maintenance before 200 mile ride

mumbynicholas

I haven't cycled for about 5 years, and I bought my current road bike (Giant TCR) in 2011 so its over 10 years old now.

I previously did all the maintenance myself, but thought I would ask if there is anything I might have missed before going on a fairly long multi day ride.

Originally it was a Giant TCR ADVANCED 3. But I've replaced quite a lot of components...

crankset (except crank) - ultegra.
brakes - ultegra.
shifters - ultegra.
upgraded the cables to jagwire.
seat
bar tape

I took the bike out a few days ago and got quite a few snapped spokes.
It looks like the originals were steel as they were a little rusty. - Now swapped with DT Swiss Aero Comp.

I'm probably going to put some new tyres on it, they look ok but at 5+ years old they must have deteriorated.

What else should I check?

trevor.hall12

Personally I would do all the cables after that period of time
I done a buddy's one full teardown and rebuild things that were gone were
Headset bearings, seatpost clamp and BB


The lower bearing in the fork had to be specially removed as it had welded onto the fork

mumbynicholas

Thanks for the replies.
Tyres - New
Chain - New

Took apart the headset and bearings were ok, just very dark grey grease. Cleaned and repacked.

The cables aren't that old and are teflon coated fully stainless jagwire. All very free moving so should be fine.

I havent done the wheel bearings and think I might need to.
Both have the tiniest fraction of play that I can feel when moving the wheel side to side. Maybe half a mm.

The giant P-R2 hubs arent like shimano and use a sealed bearing. How would I know which bearings to order before I strip them?

trevor.hall12

Take the end caps off to expose them should have the numbers on them

mumbynicholas

thanks. They're are all 6000 LBLU. I've ordered some replacements.

I'm struggling to see how to remove.
I've taken the caps and nuts off both sides but the centre threaded tube wont budge.
Should it tap through with a mallet?

masjer

The freehub should pull off of the axle. The axle is probably held in place by the bearings like this:

If you tap the axle, it'll hopefully drive out the non drive side bearing, enabling you to remove the axle.
There will be another bearing in the drive side.

mumbynicholas

thanks. Tapped it out, both bearings are out.
They look fine, no corrosion at all and feel like new. I'll replace anyway.

the freehub seems very firmly attached. I think there might be a lockring?

on this image you can see two slots either side of the bearing.


do I need something like this?


looking in from the other side the inside of the freehub looks like it might also take a triple square socket

slowmart

There are much better wheel builders on here than myself so take my comment on that basis but if I’d broken more than three spokes on a wheel I’d rebuild the wheel using new spokes as it would only be a matter of time before the remaining over stressed spokes would begin to pop

masjer

The freehub sounds like it's bolted from the inside. A 10 or 11mm hex is often the norm. They can be very tight.
The special tool above is used to gain access to the loose ball bearings inside the freehub. I very much doubt it could be used to remove the freehub.

mumbynicholas

slowmart said:

There are much better wheel builders on here than myself so take my comment on that basis but if I’d broken more than three spokes on a wheel I’d rebuild the wheel using new spokes as it would only be a matter of time before the remaining over stressed spokes would begin to pop

Sorry should have been more clear. I replaced all the spokes, not just the ones that snapped.

mumbynicholas

masjer said:

The freehub sounds like it's bolted from the inside. A 10 or 11mm hex is often the norm. They can be very tight.
The special tool above is used to gain access to the loose ball bearings inside the freehub. I very much doubt it could be used to remove the freehub.

Thanks I'll try a hex.

trevor.hall12

I believe its an 11 mm hex from the topside of the freehub
If it dosnt fit through the bearing it will be from the NDS

mumbynicholas

I've been keeping an eye on eBay for replacement wheels and just bought a pair of kyserium elite ust for £130. The seller described them as very good condition without much use. They haven't arrived yet, but almost look brand new in the pics.

The giant pr2 wheels are all I've known, and I always thought they were fine. But after reading a few reviews it seems like that are quite poor.

Looking forward to seeing what the mavics are like.

MattFalle

Kyserium Elites are mega vfm, when you get them slop a load of 3:1 down the nipples from the inside as they have tendancy to seize.

hang up wheel

slop in 3:1

leave overnight to soak in

rotate wheel

repeat