Racing on Zwift using dumb trainer and PM - issues?

Was thinking of racing on Zwift using a dumb, wheel on trainer and PM but was worried that peak power might be too low due to issues with the wheel on drum style of dumb trainer I have.
For TTs I imagine it's fine, also should be OK for breakaways but wondering how limiting it might be for sprints. Does anyone do what I'm trying to do and have any other issues I should be aware of?
I really don't want to splash out on a new PM only to discover I cant do this well as I would like to win or at least contest races.
Thanks
For TTs I imagine it's fine, also should be OK for breakaways but wondering how limiting it might be for sprints. Does anyone do what I'm trying to do and have any other issues I should be aware of?
I really don't want to splash out on a new PM only to discover I cant do this well as I would like to win or at least contest races.
Thanks
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If using a dumb trainer with no PM (using virtual power - Zwift has a library of dumb trainers where they have got the power curve), then yes, you will experience some issues particularly around peak power/sprints as the wheelspeed on the drum will lag behind your input somewhat.
There's also inherent inaccuracy in the method, as it uses wheelspeed on the trainer to estimate power from a speed:power graph, and with a wheel-on trainer there are lots of things that can affect how the wheel rolls (tyre, pressure, temperature etc.). I did use virtual power on trainerroad for several years, and it was generally fine, but you have to take care to keep the setup pretty constant.
I didn't really do mega sprints in events but I struggled with wheel slip on a lot of the workouts where you had to suddenly put down a lot of power very quickly. Having said that I could get the power up quite high if I ramped it up over 3-4 seconds.
The biggest issue I had was one of simply keeping up, without a smart trainer I found I couldn't push up the hills as hard and didn't seem to get enough of a break on the flats and downhill to recover. A smart trainer has massively increased my enjoyment.
long story short, you'll probably be ok, lots of other people use zwift this way but, if you are gonna splash cash then maybe look to do so on a direct drive smart trainer (i still use my PM pedals on my smart trainer rather than the inbuilt power meter but that's more a matter of preference.)
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It's OK, obviously if you want to sprint and put out larger power, you'd need to ramp up the resistance either through changing gear or using the manual resistance. It's doable, but you won't get the full experience.
If you are going to use the PM while outside on the same bike, using PM power gives you a consistent measure, while the power from a trainer will be slightly different.
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I am not sure. You have no chance.
on the Trainer front, I picked mine up over lockdown from the Wiggle Ebay shop. they come up reasonably regularly and if you are careful they can be decent value. always worth keeping an eye on!
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/tri-sport_resort/m.html?
I usually set the gradient effect on mine down to around 30% for racing, which is a pretty common tactic (default is 50%, so a 10% gradient Zwift tells your trainer to simulate a 5% gradient - because many cheaper trainers max out at 8 or 10%).
Means you don't spin out as much on descents, and most critically for me is it means I only need to use 5 or 6 gears on the cassette in the big ring - my turbo bike is incredibly badly set up, the top and bottom of the block are basically inaccessible...
https://zwiftinsider.com/best-trainer-difficulty-setting/
High Trainer Difficulty on flat routes makes even more sense if you’re racing a time trial, because it lets you feel those false flats and apply a bit more power to keep your speed high. Without having your Trainer Difficulty set high on a flat route, you may be on a slight incline and not even notice the difference – until you realize your speed has dropped by 2kph!