How can I spend money to go faster?

Hi all

First time poster here.

I moved to the S of France at the start of the year. I exercised quite a bit during lock down (rowing machine mostly) and since then have been riding about 120km a week with approx. 2500m of climbing since then (1 or 2 days of commuting and 1 longer rider at weekends). I've been enjoying the long hills, which is surprising given that I hover around 96kg and 1.93m. I might increase this to 150km a week but unlikely more. I might lose 5kg not realistically that's it.

The Yorkshireman in me likes overtaking fancy bikes on my 10 year old Kinesis Decade Convert 2 (currently built as Ultegra/105 10 speed). Of course, there are plently who overtake me).

Last week I rented a fancy bike with fancy carbon climbing wheels to go up and around Mt Ventoux. I had always subscribed to the school of upgrades making minimal differences compared to fitness. But I was surprised how much faster I was for similar effort - say 2-3kph on the flats and at least 1kph on Ventoux.

Now I've got an itch, but I don't want a whole new bike (yet). Ideally a few hundred € (but not thousands) on something that makes me faster and which I can take to Future Fancy Bike. I've already taken the free step of lowering my bars. I will lose some bike weight with new pedals and tyres. New tyres will decrease rolling resistance, I am told.

What else can I do without pi**ing money up the wall?

Wheels? Currently have 5 year old (narrow) 36h Open Pros on knock-off Miche Primato hubs. Probably close to 2kg (with plenty of wear left). I like the idea of wider rims and I'm willing to try tubeless. But aero? As a heavy rider I think I'd be more interested in deeper rims for stiffness and strength rather than aerodynamics.

All suggestions welcome, other than "tighter kit".

Thanks

Comments

  • ugo.santalucia
    ugo.santalucia Posts: 28,310
    You could get a coach if you are serious

    And of course you should lose some weight...
    left the forum March 2023
  • Dorset_Boy
    Dorset_Boy Posts: 7,419
    Bike fit
    Coach
    Dietician
  • Rilkal47
    Rilkal47 Posts: 26
    edited July 2020
    I switched the tyres on my gravel bike to from the cheap 38mm tyres to more expensive 30mm ones and immediately noticed a difference in speed.

    https://www.merlincycles.com/schwalbe-g-one-speed-tl-easy-evolution-folding-gravel-tyre-700c-98628.html

    Try to save weight where you can by buying lighter and more aerodynamic handlebars, pedals, seat post etc. You can even get super lightweight inner tubes from Tubolito which can save you quite a bit of weight, relatively speaking.

    Becoming a full Lycra w*****r really helps too, I was really surprised when I made the switch.

    Wheels are a little more tricky, aerodynamic is better than light so you want a deeper wheel but that affects handling in crosswinds. Like me though you need to bare the max weight in mind as you as some may be low around the 105kg max inc rider and bike.

    GCN have loads of great videos to help too. https://youtu.be/xZvt8UDfQX0
  • darkhairedlord
    darkhairedlord Posts: 7,180
    Avoid the bakers and head for the grocer's
  • joe_totale-2
    joe_totale-2 Posts: 1,333
    Agree with the others. At 96kg you've probably got a few kg that you could shift that could make a big difference.

    Smart trainer and sticking to an intense training plan from something like Sufferfest or Trainer Road will help a lot as well.
  • wajvpitt
    wajvpitt Posts: 2
    Thanks to all for the comments.

    The suggestions about losing weight and training better are not surprising - these are in hand.

    What surprised me is that I went significantly faster on a better bike. I'm willing to spend money to capture some of that difference. But maybe I should just save the money until I'm ready to get a whole new bike.



  • pblakeney
    pblakeney Posts: 27,057
    wajvpitt said:

    But maybe I should just save the money until I'm ready to get a whole new bike.

    Lot of sense shown there.
    The above may be fact, or fiction, I may be serious, I may be jesting.
    I am not sure. You have no chance.
    Veronese68 wrote:
    PB is the most sensible person on here.
  • ballysmate
    ballysmate Posts: 15,930
    pblakeney said:

    wajvpitt said:

    But maybe I should just save the money until I'm ready to get a whole new bike.

    Lot of sense shown there.
    Yep, save your money, get fitter/lighter and then buy a nice bike.
    Unless you are racing, the gain of 1 or 2 kph you may get on a nicer lighter bike is irrelevant. Sitting on the best bike in the world will not make you a better cyclist. Quicker, yes. Better, no.
    Look for improvements in your ability rather than than your bike for now. There are no shortcuts.
  • Smart trainer, plus a sufferfest/trainer road/whatever subscription. You'll lose weight and get faster.

    Then treat yourself to something new and shiny as a reward :smile:
  • singleton
    singleton Posts: 2,523
    One thing that will be cheap - find the geometry of the bike you rode, and make sure that yours is setup similarly. It may be that the position on the "fast bike" was better for you.

    In my experience, wheels and tyres make a big difference to how a bike "feels".
  • fenix
    fenix Posts: 5,437
    Don't underestimate the effect of just having new kit. Riding the flash bike probably made you push harder too.

    If I get new Oakleys I'm flying for a week or two.
  • singleton
    singleton Posts: 2,523
    fenix said:


    If I get new Oakleys I'm flying for a week or two.

    :D:D
  • N0bodyOfTheGoat
    N0bodyOfTheGoat Posts: 6,047
    Carnac TT helmet £40
    2* Continental Supersonic tubes £20
    2* Continental GP5000 (as narrow as safely possible for front, 23mm on 17mm internal rim width wheel) £70
    Speed suit or racing fit bib shorts plus Jersey £80
    TT overshoes
    Shave exposed leg and arm hair FREE
    Water bottle in Jersey, under saddle, or on seat tube (best to worst in Watt savings)
    Aero "wing" handlebars £60/150 (alloy/carbon)
    Etc.
    ================
    2020 Voodoo Marasa
    2017 Cube Attain GTC Pro Disc 2016
    2016 Voodoo Wazoo
  • bobones
    bobones Posts: 1,215
    +50 mm deep / 25 mm wide carbon wheels with 23 mm Vittoria Corsa Speed tubeless tyres. Use the drops.

    Buy a power meter and subscribe to Xert
  • fenix
    fenix Posts: 5,437
    Clip on Tri bars will give you 2mph extra speed for no effort. More bang for the buck than anything else.
  • zest28
    zest28 Posts: 403
    edited July 2020
    Buy an e-bike and remove the limiter. That will be a bigger upgrade than some fancy expensive carbon bike :p
  • DeVlaeminck
    DeVlaeminck Posts: 9,048
    Latex tubes are marginally faster than butyl especially in tyres with a supple carcass like Vittoria Corsa. Tubeless is another debate but some claim an advantage over latex tubes, others argue once you add sealant the rolling resistance advantage disappears.

    A new chain and keep your drivetrain clean - research the "fastest" chain lubes.

    Maybe video yourself on a turbo/rollers and get your osition as aero as is comfortable - might mean a change of stem.

    Narrower bars.

    Aero wheels especially the front - if you don't want to splash the cash a second hand front could be quite cheap though mismatched wheels isn't a great look.
    [Castle Donington Ladies FC - going up in '22]
  • If the engine isn’t up to it, whatever you spend will lead to ‘marginal gains’ at best.
  • drhaggis
    drhaggis Posts: 1,150
    Pretty sure the easiest way to spend money on fast is to put the fastest tyres you can. GP5000's (either TL or with Latex inner tubes) would save you perhaps as much as 20W at 20mph compared to some GP4s.

    Next is aero: no baggy clothing, position, aero handlebar, tri-bars if you go that way, and then the big ticket items: helmet, wheels, TT bike.

    However, this means nothing if you don't have the legs. Case in point: couple of weeks ago I got passed by two youngsters on mountain bikes, on baggy clothes, and looking casual at about 25 mph in the flat. I didn't hear any sort of electric buzz.
  • fenix
    fenix Posts: 5,437
    Tri bars trump tyres. Unless you're on knobblies.
  • drhaggis
    drhaggis Posts: 1,150
    edited July 2020
    fenix said:

    Tri bars trump tyres. Unless you're on knobblies.

    Or on hilly routes. Or (I know this doesn't apply right now) on club rides where tri bars are banned.

    EDIT: This reads snarkier than I meant. If you can/want, tri bars will be a great way to earn speed in the cheap.
  • Give your money to me and go ride your bike more. You get faster from being fitter and you don't have the spare cash any more to scratch an itch. I'll put it to good. Use. My wife wants a new kitchen.
    www.thecycleclinic.co.uk
  • pblakeney
    pblakeney Posts: 27,057
    Will it make her cook faster? 😉😂😉
    The above may be fact, or fiction, I may be serious, I may be jesting.
    I am not sure. You have no chance.
    Veronese68 wrote:
    PB is the most sensible person on here.
  • What I will say is that aero makes a HUGE difference in speed. I finally got with the carbon aero-ish "endurance frame" trend, and on a false flat descent that I'm familiar with I was able to coast much farther than on my steel round-tube frame. My wife said she had to pedal to keep up with me on her ti frame. The difference really is noticeable.

    I used to think weight was the key, but now (unless you're doing hill climbs) I'm not so sure. For the overall duration of a loop ride, I'd go for aero. That would probably mean a new bike/frame.

    For sheer climbing, I bought a pair of conventional "climbing" wheels a few years ago and while they were certainly light and pretty stiff, I wasn't totally convinced of the benefits, especially descending...

  • shortfall
    shortfall Posts: 3,288
    Personal anecdotes that compare rides on different/lighter/more aero bikes/wheels aren't really that useful tbh. The benefits of lighter or more aero bikes and equipment have been established through extensive testing but realising any theoretical gains made under perfect conditions can prove elusive out on the road. I'm not saying they don't exist or that they're not worth having, but what is going to make the most difference to most people is your own personal fitness, weight and power. Maximising these needn't cost anything, although access to a gym and a properly structured training program with goals etc is worth the investment to some people and probably worth spending a few quid on.
  • mpatts
    mpatts Posts: 1,010
    Here is the list:

    On flat, 80% of effort over 18mph is in pushing the air out of the way. SO.

    1) Bike fit

    This will make the single biggest difference.

    1a) Aero Baby

    Linked to fit but more so. Get an aero helmet, a skin suit, throw all the bike bags away

    2) Follow a plan

    Do some structured training, get a power meter, get out riding. Or Zwift. Maybe buy a turbo

    3) Tyres and wheels

    25mm tubeless schwalbe pro ones, save some watts. Get some nice light wheels.

    4) Bike

    Go with any changes that they say i 1, then maybe think about justifying something amazing to yourself.

    5) Loose some weight

    From you, but also the bike. Don't go out with 2 bottles for a 30 min ride.
    Insert bike here:
  • crescent
    crescent Posts: 1,201
    I mis-read the post at first. I thought it said "How can I spend money faster". I was going to say you have done the right thing by getting into cycling 🙂
    Bianchi ImpulsoBMC Teammachine SLR02 01Trek Domane AL3“When I see an adult on a bicycle, I do not despair for the future of the human race. “ ~H.G. Wells Edit - "Unless it's a BMX"
  • crescent said:

    I mis-read the post at first. I thought it said "How can I spend money faster". I was going to say you have done the right thing by getting into cycling 🙂

    That would be "buy a boat"
  • shortfall said:

    Personal anecdotes that compare rides on different/lighter/more aero bikes/wheels aren't really that useful tbh. The benefits of lighter or more aero bikes and equipment have been established through extensive testing but realising any theoretical gains made under perfect conditions can prove elusive out on the road. I'm not saying they don't exist or that they're not worth having, but what is going to make the most difference to most people is your own personal fitness, weight and power. Maximising these needn't cost anything, although access to a gym and a properly structured training program with goals etc is worth the investment to some people and probably worth spending a few quid on.

    But that's not as much fun as spending money on bike gear!

    For me half the fun is the equipment; otherwise I'd be a runner...

    That said, I did drop money on a bike fitting this year and it was very informative and instructive, especially if you've been riding the same basic position for, say, 3 decades...
  • shortfall
    shortfall Posts: 3,288
    def_defyr said:

    shortfall said:

    Personal anecdotes that compare rides on different/lighter/more aero bikes/wheels aren't really that useful tbh. The benefits of lighter or more aero bikes and equipment have been established through extensive testing but realising any theoretical gains made under perfect conditions can prove elusive out on the road. I'm not saying they don't exist or that they're not worth having, but what is going to make the most difference to most people is your own personal fitness, weight and power. Maximising these needn't cost anything, although access to a gym and a properly structured training program with goals etc is worth the investment to some people and probably worth spending a few quid on.

    But that's not as much fun as spending money on bike gear!

    For me half the fun is the equipment; otherwise I'd be a runner...

    That said, I did drop money on a bike fitting this year and it was very informative and instructive, especially if you've been riding the same basic position for, say, 3 decades...
    I know I know! I'm as bad as the next man but I'm trying to give sage advice 😀