Big hello from me!

Mhrock86

A Happy new Year to you all! Please welcome me to your forum.

After ten years in the gym bodybuilding, I have taken up cycling only very recently in a bid to increase my general flexibility and fitness levels.

I have got myself a Cannondale CAADX 105 Sora 54 2016, and am loving my first few months in the saddle so far. Being a big lad, its definitely a challenge on the hills but I am improving daily, and can really see why people love cycling.

Also, I seem to be developing a bit of a soft spot for playing around with my bike at home. I can totally see why people get hooked. I can also see how you can empty your wallet pretty quickly too

Some things I have learnt in my short time cycling so far:

Tyre sizes are confusing as hell. Are 700c always 28 inches????? I am still confused about that.
People wave at me? - I guess I should wave back, but I am too scared to take my hands off the bars
I definitely need new shoes - gym shoes are totally unacceptable for riding in cold and wet weather
I am terrible at true-ing wheels
I need bib shorts - desperately
Why does my forehead get really hot?
Cycling sunglasses are the best investment ever
Watch out for road kill when coming downhill pretty quickly, especially if there is a car on your side!
Cycling by the river has meant the indirect and unintentional murder of two large rats
Dont put your headphones on full blast because you cant hear cars!
Cycling is totally addictive.

Cheers, and lots of waves from me.

Oli

craker

Welcome, welcome.

Got mudguards? That'll slow the rate your inappropriate footwear gets wet and cold.
Get some overshoes - they work OK with trainers but better with clipless cycling shoes.
Wave at no-one. Or everyone. It's your choice :-)
I can't help you with your forehead. See a specialist.
Tyre widths are a bit of a minefield. If you're a big'n and are bending you wheels, the wider the better. But your frame will only be good up to a certain widths.

Enjoy the ride.

Mhrock86

craker wrote:

Welcome, welcome.

Got mudguards? That'll slow the rate your inappropriate footwear gets wet and cold.
Get some overshoes - they work OK with trainers but better with clipless cycling shoes.
Wave at no-one. Or everyone. It's your choice :-)
I can't help you with your forehead. See a specialist.
Tyre widths are a bit of a minefield. If you're a big'n and are bending you wheels, the wider the better. But your frame will only be good up to a certain widths.

Enjoy the ride.

Thank you craker I appreciate it. Have mudguards yes, but not all the way round. just front and back, not the inside. Reason being I had some attached when I got the bike but I hated the aesthetic, so removed them. I also noticed that the front ones would sometimes rub on my shoe when turning abruptly - so they had to go. Just need to bite the bullet and get some cycling shoes with cleats and overshoes - do you have any recommendations that wouldnt break the bank for a beginner and any recommendations for cleats for cross bikes? I am still uncertain of all the different versions/types of cleats etc and what fits what.

Got some new Shwalbe comps - 35 x 622 (700c) 28 x 1.35 with 100kg load (I am currently 91kg - bike 8kg) - they are going on tonight - hopefully these should be OK? on 700c 28inch wheels can I put wider tyres on? How can I check for clearance?

Thanks for your help!

Oli

shiznit76

Get a good pair of bib shorts, they are the barrier between a happy run on bike and serious pain!
iAre the tyres not 28mm? This is the external width of them, usually have 23, 25 or now 28mm ones on 700c wheels

daniel_b

Welcome!

And fine work on the Rats :shock:

Bib shorts are superb, I avoided them for at least a couple of years, but as soon as I bought a pair I realised why.

Not sure what kind of budget you are looking at, but if you buy really cheap, the chances are you won't get one with a decent pad and potentially fit.
Another thing I picked up for myself which perhaps all roadies know, is that bibs need to fit REALLY well and snugly, or the pad will move about\not stay where it needs to be, and cause you pain.
A tip for you - when you try bibs on roll the bottom hem over, as this has a gripper on, and shuffle the leg further up your leg that it would normally sit, then gently lever yourself into them, until you feel the pad is in the right place - don't just yank them or there is potential for them to split.

If you are after value bibs with a decent pad, I personally would suggest:

Decathlon's own brand B Twin shorts - the higher the number, the better the quality iirc.
Galibier (Message them for sizing info if unsure)
La Passione (Especially if they have a sale on)
Pactimo (As above, though they don't fit me alas)
Chapeau

Having said that, there are loads of sales on at the mo, so keep your eyes peeled, as bib shorts are likely to be discounted, and of course won't be come the spring, when instead bib tights will be.

There are loads of friendly helpful people on here, so just ask away, and I'm sure you'll be inundated with suggestions.

Shoes are another can of works, as you have to choose between 2 bolt SPD (Metal cleats which NEVER seem to wear out!), better if you want to walk (MTB Shoes have Grip and cleats are almost recessed) a bit as well, or 3 bolt cleats SPD-SL for example, not anywhere near as good if you want to walk (Road or track specific, no tread to speak of, cleats can't be recessed), and also plastic cleats that do wear out.

I have both, and use them accordingly.

Plenty of good shoe deals out there at anytime of year, bit daunting when you are new to it though, I remember it well.

In no specific order, retailers I would recommend are:

Wiggle & Chain Reaction Cycles (The former bought the latter) - Free returns
Halfords (10% discount (generally) if you have BC membership) - Free returns to store
Evans (10% discount if you have BC membership - sadly now owned by the Sport Direct bloke...) - Free returns to store
Merlin Cycles
Sigma Sport (Free returns)
Ribble Cycles

Mhrock86

shiznit76 wrote:

Get a good pair of bib shorts, they are the barrier between a happy run on bike and serious pain!
iAre the tyres not 28mm? This is the external width of them, usually have 23, 25 or now 28mm ones on 700c wheels

Duly noted thank you I will start looking at bibs.

On the tyre sizes front they are 35mm - because I have a cross bike and the standard tyres that come on Canonnondale CaadX are 35mm - I didnt want to go thinner because I am thinking to get some separate lightweight wheels with road tyres on that I can switch to in spring. I am also quite heavy - 91kg and I noted that some of the road bike tyres at 28mm have a load of 80kg or less. Including my bike I am pushing 100kgs.

I guess normal road tyre width is around 28?

Cheers!

Oli

Mhrock86

Daniel B wrote:

Welcome!

And fine work on the Rats :shock:

Bib shorts are superb, I avoided them for at least a couple of years, but as soon as I bought a pair I realised why.

Not sure what kind of budget you are looking at, but if you buy really cheap, the chances are you won't get one with a decent pad and potentially fit.
Another thing I picked up for myself which perhaps all roadies know, is that bibs need to fit REALLY well and snugly, or the pad will move about\not stay where it needs to be, and cause you pain.
A tip for you - when you try bibs on roll the bottom hem over, as this has a gripper on, and shuffle the leg further up your leg that it would normally sit, then gently lever yourself into them, until you feel the pad is in the right place - don't just yank them or there is potential for them to split.

If you are after value bibs with a decent pad, I personally would suggest:

Decathlon's own brand B Twin shorts - the higher the number, the better the quality iirc.
Galibier (Message them for sizing info if unsure)
La Passione (Especially if they have a sale on)
Pactimo (As above, though they don't fit me alas)
Chapeau

Having said that, there are loads of sales on at the mo, so keep your eyes peeled, as bib shorts are likely to be discounted, and of course won't be come the spring, when instead bib tights will be.

There are loads of friendly helpful people on here, so just ask away, and I'm sure you'll be inundated with suggestions.

Shoes are another can of works, as you have to choose between 2 bolt SPD (Metal cleats which NEVER seem to wear out!), better if you want to walk (MTB Shoes have Grip and cleats are almost recessed) a bit as well, or 3 bolt cleats SPD-SL for example, not anywhere near as good if you want to walk (Road or track specific, no tread to speak of, cleats can't be recessed), and also plastic cleats that do wear out.

I have both, and use them accordingly.

Plenty of good shoe deals out there at anytime of year, bit daunting when you are new to it though, I remember it well.

In no specific order, retailers I would recommend are:

Wiggle & Chain Reaction Cycles (The former bought the latter) - Free returns
Halfords (10% discount (generally) if you have BC membership) - Free returns to store
Evans (10% discount if you have BC membership - sadly now owned by the Sport Direct bloke...) - Free returns to store
Merlin Cycles
Sigma Sport (Free returns)
Ribble Cycles

Woweeee! Now that's a reply! Thank you so much for all your efforts here to help me.

Daniel - can I simply go into a cycling shop and ask to try on bib shorts and tights? Arent they a little, ahem, personal? or is it a matter of ordering online, and then sending them back and changing size until I find the right ones?

I have over Christmas bought some new tyres from Chain Reaction Cycles, delivery was a little slow (likely due to the time of year), but happy with what they sent me. I will start looking at shoes, but dont like the idea of buying shoes and cleats online before trying them. I understand some have movement and some dont (ie are fixed). I tend to move my feet around quite a lot on pedals, what difference will having them fixed make? I am a big lad, who is generally using a mix of roads and dirt trails. I dont ever get off the bike and walk around, because I dont want to lock my bike up generally (the area is known for bikes getting stolen). But potentially in the Summer I might like this to change if someone comes riding with me. Sounds like I might need recessed just to have the option? In that case its SPD that I need to look at?

Thanks again

Oli

keef66

Some shoes take 2 bolt MTB type cleats (eg SPD), some take 3 bolt road type cleats (eg SPD-SL), some take both.

Unless you fancy buying online and returning several pairs, I'd definitely advise buying shoes from a shop where you can try them on. And try them on with the thickest socks you'll likely wear

Cleats usually come with the pedals, not the shoes.

I'd say for a gravel type bike MTB shoes with recessed 2 bolt SPD cleats make most sense. There's quite a bit of float with SPDs so your feet aren't rigidly locked in one direction.

Shimano M520 pedals are all you need, and pretty much indestructible. Paying more may get you lighter and shinier pedals, but they all do the same thing.

shiznit76

Mhrock86 wrote:

shiznit76 wrote:

Get a good pair of bib shorts, they are the barrier between a happy run on bike and serious pain!
iAre the tyres not 28mm? This is the external width of them, usually have 23, 25 or now 28mm ones on 700c wheels

Duly noted thank you I will start looking at bibs.

On the tyre sizes front they are 35mm - because I have a cross bike and the standard tyres that come on Canonnondale CaadX are 35mm - I didnt want to go thinner because I am thinking to get some separate lightweight wheels with road tyres on that I can switch to in spring. I am also quite heavy - 91kg and I noted that some of the road bike tyres at 28mm have a load of 80kg or less. Including my bike I am pushing 100kgs.

I guess normal road tyre width is around 28?

Cheers!

Oli

"nomal" was once 19mm, then 21mm, then 23mm, now 25mm is becoming more the norm. 28 mm is becoming more widely available. I weigh approx same as you and ride 25mm continetnal gatorskins, good all round tyres and never even new a weight limit came with them!

orraloon

Mhrock86 wrote:

...Can I simply go into a cycling shop and ask to try on bib shorts and tights? Arent they a little, ahem, personal? or is it a matter of ordering online, and then sending them back and changing size until I find the right ones?...

We-el, one can use the changing cubicles in Decathlon to try on shorts / tights. Quite how, ahem, representative you might want to get for true fit would be a matter of personal choice. I have both in BTwin brand, and the higher the number the better the padding, and they are ok. Plus rel cheap compared to other options, so no great loss if find they are not right after all.

I use SPD on both road and MTB. My MTB trainers have the cleats fully recessed as described above. My road shoes have a rigid sole but cleats are semi recessed so can walk in them, if slightly awkwardly.

daniel_b

Mhrock86 wrote:

Daniel - can I simply go into a cycling shop and ask to try on bib shorts and tights? Arent they a little, ahem, personal? or is it a matter of ordering online, and then sending them back and changing size until I find the right ones?

Decathlon have changing rooms, as do some Evans stores, so yes you could do that.
Personally I prefer to try them on in the privacy of my own home. Eventually, you get to know if you are X weight, then Y size, in brand Z will fit you. It takes some time though, and sometimes can change fairly dramaticalky uf your shape / build changes, and even flexibility (going in either direction) can change things a lot.

If you browse a lot if the sites, they tend to have size guides, and on occasion useful reviews along the lines of "I weigh 80kg, I tried Large and XL, but one was too tight in the shoulder straps"
You get the idea I'm sure.

Galibier are very good with size enquiries, one time I ordered a small, they mailed (unprompted) to suggest a medium might be better, but I was wrong, and had to send it back for a return/swap.

If it's a brand or cut I am not familiar with, I tend to order the 2 most likely to fit, and the send the ill fitting one back.

Great to see such enthusiasm, I wish you every luck with your endeavours.

andyh01

As anything new bit of trail and error and opinions are subjective. My advice is it all depends on what you're doing. If leisure/short blasts anything really will do. If doing couple hour plus rides few times a week then decent kit may be more worth it. I do 10 mile each way commute and wear mountain bike 'baggies' or just normal sports clothing, although I have ripped a few pairs of joggers on the front chain.
Sdp shoes are good for touring/leisure/fitnesd. The float allows a few degrees of sidewise movement, the 520s are fine, however I found as smaller contact platform, it can create hot spot on your foot depending on shoes etc, I'm going to try a trail pedal with a bigger platform.
If you're looking to carry luggage I would consider bike rack so bag and weight is on the bike not your back.
O ershoes do help keep feet warm and drier nothing worse then cold and wet. Look for naprone material same stuff as what wetsuits are made of.
Main thing is its as cheap or as expensive as you want it to be and for me it's all about having fun and getting out there. I'm a stocky ex rugby player got out of shape and in last few months being back on bike I've lost about 15kg of fat all while getting from A to B

Mhrock86

keef66 wrote:

Some shoes take 2 bolt MTB type cleats (eg SPD), some take 3 bolt road type cleats (eg SPD-SL), some take both.

Unless you fancy buying online and returning several pairs, I'd definitely advise buying shoes from a shop where you can try them on. And try them on with the thickest socks you'll likely wear

Cleats usually come with the pedals, not the shoes.

I'd say for a gravel type bike MTB shoes with recessed 2 bolt SPD cleats make most sense. There's quite a bit of float with SPDs so your feet aren't rigidly locked in one direction.

Shimano M520 pedals are all you need, and pretty much indestructible. Paying more may get you lighter and shinier pedals, but they all do the same thing.

Hi Keef, thank you for the advice, I really appreciate it I will definitely go into a shop then to start trying on some shoes. I generally dont like buying shoes off the web anyway, as they are never right, so I think this is the right way to do it!

Yes indeed, the CAADX is a x bike designed for Gravel, so perhaps you are right, MTB with SPD is the way to go! Thanks for your suggestion on the Shimano pedals, I will start checking them out today.

Cheers and a Happy New Year to you.

Oli

Mhrock86

[/quote]"nomal" was once 19mm, then 21mm, then 23mm, now 25mm is becoming more the norm. 28 mm is becoming more widely available. I weigh approx same as you and ride 25mm continetnal gatorskins, good all round tyres and never even new a weight limit came with them![/quote]

Hmmm....I was thinking to get some road bike tyres to see how different they feel to MTB tyres.

Is there really that much of a speed difference on road?

Mhrock86

orraloon wrote:

Mhrock86 wrote:

...Can I simply go into a cycling shop and ask to try on bib shorts and tights? Arent they a little, ahem, personal? or is it a matter of ordering online, and then sending them back and changing size until I find the right ones?...

We-el, one can use the changing cubicles in Decathlon to try on shorts / tights. Quite how, ahem, representative you might want to get for true fit would be a matter of personal choice. I have both in BTwin brand, and the higher the number the better the padding, and they are ok. Plus rel cheap compared to other options, so no great loss if find they are not right after all.

I use SPD on both road and MTB. My MTB trainers have the cleats fully recessed as described above. My road shoes have a rigid sole but cleats are semi recessed so can walk in them, if slightly awkwardly.

Thanks Orraloon. Thanks for the suggestion on BTwin brand, I will check them out. I hadn't realised that road shoes had rigid soles. I am used to rigid kevlar soles when powerlifting, but I would never dream of cycling in rigid soles, or indeed for that matter walking in them . Why is the shoe designed with a rigid sole? Is it to keep your feet stable on longer rides or something? Does it do anything to efficiency, power etc? Cheers! Oli

Mhrock86

orraloon wrote:

Mhrock86 wrote:

...Can I simply go into a cycling shop and ask to try on bib shorts and tights? Arent they a little, ahem, personal? or is it a matter of ordering online, and then sending them back and changing size until I find the right ones?...

We-el, one can use the changing cubicles in Decathlon to try on shorts / tights. Quite how, ahem, representative you might want to get for true fit would be a matter of personal choice. I have both in BTwin brand, and the higher the number the better the padding, and they are ok. Plus rel cheap compared to other options, so no great loss if find they are not right after all.

I use SPD on both road and MTB. My MTB trainers have the cleats fully recessed as described above. My road shoes have a rigid sole but cleats are semi recessed so can walk in them, if slightly awkwardly.

Thanks Orraloon. Thanks for the suggestion on BTwin brand, I will check them out. I hadn't realised that road shoes had rigid soles. I am used to rigid kevlar soles when powerlifting, but I would never dream of cycling in rigid soles, or indeed for that matter walking in them . Why is the shoe designed with a rigid sole? Is it to keep your feet stable on longer rides or something? Does it do anything to efficiency, power etc? Cheers! Oli

Mhrock86

Daniel B wrote:

Mhrock86 wrote:

Daniel - can I simply go into a cycling shop and ask to try on bib shorts and tights? Arent they a little, ahem, personal? or is it a matter of ordering online, and then sending them back and changing size until I find the right ones?

Decathlon have changing rooms, as do some Evans stores, so yes you could do that.
Personally I prefer to try them on in the privacy of my own home. Eventually, you get to know if you are X weight, then Y size, in brand Z will fit you. It takes some time though, and sometimes can change fairly dramaticalky uf your shape / build changes, and even flexibility (going in either direction) can change things a lot.

If you browse a lot if the sites, they tend to have size guides, and on occasion useful reviews along the lines of "I weigh 80kg, I tried Large and XL, but one was too tight in the shoulder straps"
You get the idea I'm sure.

Galibier are very good with size enquiries, one time I ordered a small, they mailed (unprompted) to suggest a medium might be better, but I was wrong, and had to send it back for a return/swap.

If it's a brand or cut I am not familiar with, I tend to order the 2 most likely to fit, and the send the ill fitting one back.

Great to see such enthusiasm, I wish you every luck with your endeavours.

Thanks Daniel! Thank you for your detailed reply and recommendations, I really appreciate it . Sounds like a little trial and error until I find a brand that fits. I am generally very stocky for my height, so often find it very difficult to order off the shelf. I am 91kg and 5 ft 8 inches - pretty short basically. However, I have a very slim waist for my size, around a 34 sometimes even a 32. This makes it nigh on impossible to find things that will fit my legs and chest, but remain slim and fitted (they are often baggy). Any recommendations for a guy who is funny sizes?

All the body building over the years has meant I am generally very top heavy but that is slowing recently with all the cycling and squatting, my legs are starting to catch up, although saying pretty constant now. I am happy with my shape, so not looking to cut a lot more weight off particularly, if anything I was hoping cycling would give me an excuse to over-indulge with sausage sandwiches any time I like!

I was 64kgs in 2010, and I cant afford another wardrobe of clothes if I was to trim down any further so quite happy to stay a fat bastard. It's already been about 4 wardrobes from 64 to 91!!

Thanks for the suggestion of Galibier, I will check them out!

Cheers,

Oli

Mhrock86

AndyH01 wrote:

As anything new bit of trail and error and opinions are subjective. My advice is it all depends on what you're doing. If leisure/short blasts anything really will do. If doing couple hour plus rides few times a week then decent kit may be more worth it. I do 10 mile each way commute and wear mountain bike 'baggies' or just normal sports clothing, although I have ripped a few pairs of joggers on the front chain.
Sdp shoes are good for touring/leisure/fitnesd. The float allows a few degrees of sidewise movement, the 520s are fine, however I found as smaller contact platform, it can create hot spot on your foot depending on shoes etc, I'm going to try a trail pedal with a bigger platform.
If you're looking to carry luggage I would consider bike rack so bag and weight is on the bike not your back.
O ershoes do help keep feet warm and drier nothing worse then cold and wet. Look for naprone material same stuff as what wetsuits are made of.
Main thing is its as cheap or as expensive as you want it to be and for me it's all about having fun and getting out there. I'm a stocky ex rugby player got out of shape and in last few months being back on bike I've lost about 15kg of fat all while getting from A to B

Hi Andy! Thanks for your reply. I love subjective opinions, that's why I came onto a forum to hear all of them! I like having too much information rather than not enough when I am making decisions that will ultimately affect me, or indeed my wallet! . I am currently doing 1-2 hours around 3 times a week for leisure, not commuting at all (I work about 25 miles from home - but I am considering building up to be able to commute into work once or twice in the summer). I am also looking at a charity cycle race Ride Reigate in July around my birthday, which is 100k. Sounds like I will need the "proper equipment" for these types of rides?

I don't like baggy clothes when cycling, I am not wearing lycra at the moment but I am wearing very tight fitting clothes and tracksuits that I would often wear also to the gym if I was doing a normal workout (ie not a leg or back session that includes needing a body suit and knee straps etc). What I find with these is that they aren't actually that warm in this weather we are having and absorb any moisture, so are wet from spray when I return from cycles, so I have to wash them every time (which to be fair, I think I would have to anyway because I am sweating profusely on the longer rides). Is Lycra really all that much of an improvement? How can something so thin be warm? Just doesnt look right .

No no plans to carry anything other than spare inner tubes and a pump etc. I am however, looking at some portable tools. I am thinking some kind of portable socket set/torque wrench if you have any suggestions? Perhaps an under saddle bag thing would be a good idea?

Thanks for the suggestion on the overshoes - I will definitely look at them. Will cycling shoes still need overshoes? Will cycling shoes not be water proof?

Cheers!

Oli

shiznit76

Mhrock86 wrote:

"nomal" was once 19mm, then 21mm, then 23mm, now 25mm is becoming more the norm. 28 mm is becoming more widely available. I weigh approx same as you and ride 25mm continetnal gatorskins, good all round tyres and never even new a weight limit came with them![/quote]

Hmmm....I was thinking to get some road bike tyres to see how different they feel to MTB tyres.

Is there really that much of a speed difference on road?[/quote]


The difference between road and MTB tyres is massive, road tyres run much more smoothly thanks to less surface area and lack of chunky rubber grip pattern on the tyres

Mhrock86

shiznit76 wrote:

Mhrock86 wrote:

"nomal" was once 19mm, then 21mm, then 23mm, now 25mm is becoming more the norm. 28 mm is becoming more widely available. I weigh approx same as you and ride 25mm continetnal gatorskins, good all round tyres and never even new a weight limit came with them!

Hmmm....I was thinking to get some road bike tyres to see how different they feel to MTB tyres.

Is there really that much of a speed difference on road?[/quote]


The difference between road and MTB tyres is massive, road tyres run much more smoothly thanks to less surface area and lack of chunky rubber grip pattern on the tyres[/quote]

Thank you Do you think that having cross tyres on my Cannondale when on road will slow me down significantly, noticeably so? Or indeed, make my cycle that much more difficult for me?

keef66

Stiff soled shoes mean that you don't waste any energy flexing them. All the power you produce makes it through to the pedals. They can be tricky to walk in though.

With MTB pedals the cleat and the contact patch can be quite small, and some people experience discomfort / hot spots if the shoes have too flexible a sole. Avoid the ones which look like Vans or trainers for example.

I'd say go for a MTB shoe with recessed cleats and a moderately stiff sole. Carbon soled race shoes would be overkill.

Most cycling shoes are designed with ventilation in mind, and need overshoes to make them wind and waterproof.

If you do a lot of foul weather riding there are some winter shoes / boots which have no vents, extra insulation, and waterproof outers and/or liners. They tend to be fairly expensive though.

daniel_b

Mhrock86 wrote:

Thanks Daniel! Thank you for your detailed reply and recommendations, I really appreciate it . Sounds like a little trial and error until I find a brand that fits. I am generally very stocky for my height, so often find it very difficult to order off the shelf. I am 91kg and 5 ft 8 inches - pretty short basically. However, I have a very slim waist for my size, around a 34 sometimes even a 32. This makes it nigh on impossible to find things that will fit my legs and chest, but remain slim and fitted (they are often baggy). Any recommendations for a guy who is funny sizes?

All the body building over the years has meant I am generally very top heavy but that is slowing recently with all the cycling and squatting, my legs are starting to catch up, although saying pretty constant now. I am happy with my shape, so not looking to cut a lot more weight off particularly, if anything I was hoping cycling would give me an excuse to over-indulge with sausage sandwiches any time I like!

I was 64kgs in 2010, and I cant afford another wardrobe of clothes if I was to trim down any further so quite happy to stay a fat bastard. It's already been about 4 wardrobes from 64 to 91!!

Thanks for the suggestion of Galibier, I will check them out!

Cheers,

Oli

My pleasure mate, there's a HUGE amount out there, probably a lot more than when I started to be honest, and I found it daunting back in 2006!
I too started with flat pedals (Came with my second (ebay) hand Felt F70 road bike) and trainers
Hard, and or Carbon soled shoes, are to try and minimise power loss.

So I 'should' be the the weight you were in 2010!
I was there for most of the year, and then it all went to put in the winter :-(
I now have about 6-7kg to lose, but managed it last year.
That's a serious weight\muscle gain you put on there, very impressive, and presumably means some fairly powerful legs?

In a kind of contrast, I am trying to bring a bit of weights into my average week, squats amongst other exercises to see if that makes any real difference. Tiny bit of upper body work, but very little in the scheme of things.

I struggle with fit of some clothes, as I am 5ft 10, but have a 34" inseam and a short torso.
Having lost a fair amount of weight over the last two years, I also struggle with cycling jerseys, even fitted ones, being too gappy around my torso - sounds like you might have the opposite issue!
I have a slightly smaller waist than you - what chest size are you.......?

Perhaps some peeps out there will know some brands that are shaped more for people with a sizable chest - a lot of brands are for the racing snake, so no real chest to speak of, so I suspect it is those you may well struggle with.
In my opinion, Castelli tend to be designed for people with a bigger chest than your average racing snake.
On the plus side, Lycra is VERY stretchy, so hopefully this will overcome sizing issues.

Mhrock86

Daniel B wrote:

Mhrock86 wrote:

Thanks Daniel! Thank you for your detailed reply and recommendations, I really appreciate it . Sounds like a little trial and error until I find a brand that fits. I am generally very stocky for my height, so often find it very difficult to order off the shelf. I am 91kg and 5 ft 8 inches - pretty short basically. However, I have a very slim waist for my size, around a 34 sometimes even a 32. This makes it nigh on impossible to find things that will fit my legs and chest, but remain slim and fitted (they are often baggy). Any recommendations for a guy who is funny sizes?

All the body building over the years has meant I am generally very top heavy but that is slowing recently with all the cycling and squatting, my legs are starting to catch up, although saying pretty constant now. I am happy with my shape, so not looking to cut a lot more weight off particularly, if anything I was hoping cycling would give me an excuse to over-indulge with sausage sandwiches any time I like!

I was 64kgs in 2010, and I cant afford another wardrobe of clothes if I was to trim down any further so quite happy to stay a fat bastard. It's already been about 4 wardrobes from 64 to 91!!

Thanks for the suggestion of Galibier, I will check them out!

Cheers,

Oli

My pleasure mate, there's a HUGE amount out there, probably a lot more than when I started to be honest, and I found it daunting back in 2006!
I too started with flat pedals (Came with my second (ebay) hand Felt F70 road bike) and trainers
Hard, and or Carbon soled shoes, are to try and minimise power loss.

So I 'should' be the the weight you were in 2010!
I was there for most of the year, and then it all went to put in the winter :-(
I now have about 6-7kg to lose, but managed it last year.
That's a serious weight\muscle gain you put on there, very impressive, and presumably means some fairly powerful legs?

In a kind of contrast, I am trying to bring a bit of weights into my average week, squats amongst other exercises to see if that makes any real difference. Tiny bit of upper body work, but very little in the scheme of things.

I struggle with fit of some clothes, as I am 5ft 10, but have a 34" inseam and a short torso.
Having lost a fair amount of weight over the last two years, I also struggle with cycling jerseys, even fitted ones, being too gappy around my torso - sounds like you might have the opposite issue!
I have a slightly smaller waist than you - what chest size are you.......?

Perhaps some peeps out there will know some brands that are shaped more for people with a sizable chest - a lot of brands are for the racing snake, so no real chest to speak of, so I suspect it is those you may well struggle with.
In my opinion, Castelli tend to be designed for people with a bigger chest than your average racing snake.
On the plus side, Lycra is VERY stretchy, so hopefully this will overcome sizing issues.

You're not wrong about there being a lot out there, there is so much I need a forum to help me fathom what the hell to buy!! My Cannondale came with those silly plastic cages on and they kept getting caught on my front tyre when turning corners hard, so I removed them and now I found in the wet my trainers are slipping around all over the place. Once, even completely off the pedal and I was worried I was going to lose the bike, so started looking at cleats immediately, but then was like, WTH, there is too much!

You are pretty light for 5'10" by the sounds of things? Somewhere in the early 70s and you want to lose weight? Jeez, I got to 100+ and I was like, yeahhhhhh let's go on a bulk phase . Seriously though, I had to lose weight because I couldnt do my shoe laces or brush my teeth.....or scratch or wash my back even....or bend over for anything because I was so top heavy and inflexible. At 91 I am still a little inflexible but way better than at 104 for example.

I have been weight training around 4-5 times a week for 9 years, and bulking/cutting phases throughout, creatine throughout. I have been squatting since 2016, and I am now up to a 200kg x4, 225kg x 2, 250kg x 1RM. One of the main reasons for moving to the bike from the gym actually was that all my squatting and deadlifting I had started to do had meant that when I got onto a bike for a short period in the Spring (for the first time since I was 14), I felt pretty confident that my legs could push me through it, and on the whole they did, but they do ache a lot in the evenings. I still get some soreness from them sometimes like anyone does I guess. The foam roller is essential for me after squatting sessions and cycling. It helps a huge amount.

I also struggle with jerseys being too gappy, but because I have to get XXL or whatever to fit my chest, which is ATM a 46". All people that make 44 and 46 jackets or jumpers or tshirts or suits etc off the peg, make them for people with huge bellies, apparently. They look like tents around my waist. Thanks for the tips on Castelli! I will check them out!

Get yourself into the weights, you wont regret it, they have made a huge difference to my confidence on the bike, I am certain without my leg sessions too, I would not have been able to make the transition from gym to bike so smoothly and confidently. Granted, you can get "too" into weightlifting, like I did, and that will most surely have an adverse affect on your ride, however, I am certain you can find the middle ground.

Most important thing is that you do what you enjoy. I love the gym, and now I am beginning to find a new love in cycling. It doesnt mean I will never go to the gym again, it just means I will replace some sessions with cycles, in the hope that the extra cardio will keep my ever growing man belly in check as I age and my testosterone levels inevitably drop, and my weight sessions seems increasingly more difficult.

Cheers!

step83

Re footwear, more specifically the cleats, of you go dwon the two bolt SPD route get the silver cleats not the black.

Simple reason being the silvers are multi release as in you can twist lift etc. The black cleats the pedals come with are single release only. The silvers are far far more friendly. I've been using the same set on a pair of shoes for years now crunching over gravel mud an what not without issue.

Clothing is a pain. Similar height to you but a little lighter 87.6Kg 5ft10" and a 43 chest clothing is hit an miss in general. being an odd size body. I tend to find a well fitting brand an stick with them, likely most of us do to be honest.

General note, if the branding shows "racing" or "Italian" fit its racing snake fit.
Example, I have an Altura Jersey in large, perfect fit, Castelli, XXL. The Castelli jersey is lovely and amazing in this weather but gives you an idea how wide sizing is across brands, and even in some cases a range within a brand.
Also be aware just because you fit one size jersey the same brand bibs may actually not be the best bet. I usually end up down a size in bibs compared to jerseys basically because belly and wideish shoulders

Wave back, or least acknowledge them, a nod an raising a couple fingers off the bars up to full hands off the bars bowing if you feel the need.
An when passing a cyclist who's stopped always worth asking if their alright.
Hands off the bars comes with confidence and core muscles, I have issues with my right side, left hand I can flail about happy as can be drink, open food steal things from other people jerseys etc. right side, nope but its purely down to core strength an stability.

Hot forehead, sounds daft but is your lid on right? the front shouldn't be down on your brow. check for reviews of the helmet on line which usually has the correct position or, pop into a local bike shop an ask.

On those lines also do the same with regard to the mystical art of wheel truing. I've started seeing more an more shops offering basic maintenance classes of an evening, along with rides out which may be something worth looking into.

Wayne Plunger

If I could just add my for what its worth reading the cycling / bib shorts.

At the outset I would not overspend on these. In a year of cycling I lost three stone and all my shorts ended up being way to big. So much so that I have bought new cheaper ones, unpicked the pads from the ones which are now to big and sewn them into the cheap ones thus getting a double pad and they are incredibly comfortable.

keef66

I started out with some non-bib shorts from Halfords, then graduated to some slightly dearer DHB bibs on sale from Wiggle. Much comfier without a waistband, and the straps ensure the pad stays where it's meant to be. Now I have a pair of the cheapest Assos and some from La Passione. (the latter were only because I was looking for navy blue at a time when it seemed scarce...)

I've been lucky that all my choices fitted well, and although they varied, the sizes / shapes / positions of the chamois have suited my @rse.

I'd start with a mid-range Decathlon pair and go from there...

Mhrock86

Step83 wrote:

Re footwear, more specifically the cleats, of you go dwon the two bolt SPD route get the silver cleats not the black.

Simple reason being the silvers are multi release as in you can twist lift etc. The black cleats the pedals come with are single release only. The silvers are far far more friendly. I've been using the same set on a pair of shoes for years now crunching over gravel mud an what not without issue.

Clothing is a pain. Similar height to you but a little lighter 87.6Kg 5ft10" and a 43 chest clothing is hit an miss in general. being an odd size body. I tend to find a well fitting brand an stick with them, likely most of us do to be honest.

General note, if the branding shows "racing" or "Italian" fit its racing snake fit.
Example, I have an Altura Jersey in large, perfect fit, Castelli, XXL. The Castelli jersey is lovely and amazing in this weather but gives you an idea how wide sizing is across brands, and even in some cases a range within a brand.
Also be aware just because you fit one size jersey the same brand bibs may actually not be the best bet. I usually end up down a size in bibs compared to jerseys basically because belly and wideish shoulders

Wave back, or least acknowledge them, a nod an raising a couple fingers off the bars up to full hands off the bars bowing if you feel the need.
An when passing a cyclist who's stopped always worth asking if their alright.
Hands off the bars comes with confidence and core muscles, I have issues with my right side, left hand I can flail about happy as can be drink, open food steal things from other people jerseys etc. right side, nope but its purely down to core strength an stability.

Hot forehead, sounds daft but is your lid on right? the front shouldn't be down on your brow. check for reviews of the helmet on line which usually has the correct position or, pop into a local bike shop an ask.

On those lines also do the same with regard to the mystical art of wheel truing. I've started seeing more an more shops offering basic maintenance classes of an evening, along with rides out which may be something worth looking into.

Thanks for your reply Step83 . Thanks for the wonderful advice on cleats, I had no idea why there was a colour difference. I am however, not clear on what the difference is between single and multi release is. Might have to google that one, sorry complete noob here!

We sound pretty similar in size but you are a little taller and less of a chest. I can imagine you can likely get into most 44" clothing though, which is a good thing! Having said that as you say, a 44" chest is a L in some and a XXL in others - so yes, understand the problem here. There is no replacement for trying things on aye!

I have started to wave back! Definitely not confident to lift hands off the handlebars just yet but one off is fine, although not going to lie, I am not straight, more like, waving left and right especially whilst drinking for some reason . Interestingly, I am right handed and am using that to hold the drink and trying to use my left to steer, perhaps I should swap and see how I get on.

Interesting you should say is my helmet on correctly - I have a feeling then from what you are saying I'm keeping it too low on my head, will definitely look at how its fitted. Cycling in this cold weather has meant that my ears and neck are getting cold and I changed the way the cage thing fits round my head to accomodate head gear. Perhaps this is what is making my forehead sweat? Have you got any tips on how to keep my ears and neck warm? Some people are saying balaclava? Sounds like I would roast in that.

Wheel trueing - I tried for literally hours last night to true my front wheel, and discovered a: I am terrible at it b: pencils with elastic bands on them help me identify where the wheel is not straight but no end of tweaking spokes with a spoke tool made any difference whatsoever - I feel as though I have lost track as to where the tension is with all of them. Finally, I found a spoke last night that is absolutely broken, when I try to turn it it turns in the wheel and the nipple doesnt move, and I have noticed some of where the wheel feels not true is located right next to that broken spoke. So off to the specalist we go for a wheel truing! Also getting myself a bike maintenance stand, cant hack trying to manage it any other way recently. Successfully changed two inner tubes and two new tyres last night - happy with that!

Thanks for the tip on the cycling classes - I had no idea they existed I will check them out.

Cheers!

Oli

Mhrock86

Wayne Plunger wrote:

If I could just add my for what its worth reading the cycling / bib shorts.

At the outset I would not overspend on these. In a year of cycling I lost three stone and all my shorts ended up being way to big. So much so that I have bought new cheaper ones, unpicked the pads from the ones which are now to big and sewn them into the cheap ones thus getting a double pad and they are incredibly comfortable.

3 stone :shock: wowee. Well done! That must have been a lot of hard work.

How often were you cycling to lose that much weight if you dont mind me asking?

daniel_b

Mhrock86 wrote:

You are pretty light for 5'10" by the sounds of things? Somewhere in the early 70s and you want to lose weight? Jeez, I got to 100+ and I was like, yeahhhhhh let's go on a bulk phase . Seriously though, I had to lose weight because I couldnt do my shoe laces or brush my teeth.....or scratch or wash my back even....or bend over for anything because I was so top heavy and inflexible. At 91 I am still a little inflexible but way better than at 104 for example.

I have been weight training around 4-5 times a week for 9 years, and bulking/cutting phases throughout, creatine throughout. I have been squatting since 2016, and I am now up to a 200kg x4, 225kg x 2, 250kg x 1RM. One of the main reasons for moving to the bike from the gym actually was that all my squatting and deadlifting I had started to do had meant that when I got onto a bike for a short period in the Spring (for the first time since I was 14), I felt pretty confident that my legs could push me through it, and on the whole they did, but they do ache a lot in the evenings. I still get some soreness from them sometimes like anyone does I guess. The foam roller is essential for me after squatting sessions and cycling. It helps a huge amount.

I also struggle with jerseys being too gappy, but because I have to get XXL or whatever to fit my chest, which is ATM a 46". All people that make 44 and 46 jackets or jumpers or tshirts or suits etc off the peg, make them for people with huge bellies, apparently. They look like tents around my waist. Thanks for the tips on Castelli! I will check them out!

Get yourself into the weights, you wont regret it, they have made a huge difference to my confidence on the bike, I am certain without my leg sessions too, I would not have been able to make the transition from gym to bike so smoothly and confidently. Granted, you can get "too" into weightlifting, like I did, and that will most surely have an adverse affect on your ride, however, I am certain you can find the middle ground.

Most important thing is that you do what you enjoy. I love the gym, and now I am beginning to find a new love in cycling. It doesnt mean I will never go to the gym again, it just means I will replace some sessions with cycles, in the hope that the extra cardio will keep my ever growing man belly in check as I age and my testosterone levels inevitably drop, and my weight sessions seems increasingly more difficult.

Cheers!

Hiya, yes pretty light at just under 70kg, but was down to 61 in the summer, which is perfect for hill climb season -really I would be happy if I could maintain sub 66.
I'm very slight of build, so am never going to have oodles of power, so think my forte, if I have any at all, will be for going moderately quickly up hills.
Having said that, if I could generate more power, at 70kg, and still have the same watts per kg, I would surely take that.

I did spend a good few years lifint free weights a good while back now, but didn't do them properly, and managed to damage my back for some 8 years.
I just want to concentrate on cycling specific exercises, so the squat and lunge to name a couple, but haven't really started looking into it properly yet, though the new Chris Hoy book I received for Christmas has some great strengthening and flexibility exercises within in, so I aim to reference that heavily.

Your heaviest squat amount is more than 4 of me..... summer just gone!

Re the jerseys - I was not clear enough there, I have a small chest, so tend to find a lot of brands are gappy around my chest specifically, but they fit around my waist.
As you say, you find the gappiness around your waist, so you need to find a brand that makes some jerseys for your body shape, and that is likely to be a bit of trial and error.

Sounds like you should have a perfect balance with good cardio on the bike, and continued weight training in the gym.
Best of all worlds :-)

step83

Cleat wise, multi release is literally that, multiple ways to release your foot, twist left or right, roll the ankle (not ideal) or even just a firm tug.
Single release cleat only release in one direction from memory an outward twist.

Model your after is SH56 they should have a big M stamped on the cleat body. any bike shop will know what you mean

Weirdly I'm right handed but its a conscious effort to lift my right hand from the bar.

Stands are great not only for working on but also cleaning the bike, if you value the paint just stick a cloth in the jaws of the clamp before you clamp the bike in.

Headwear, Balaclavas a bit extreme either a skull cap which covers your ears or a Belgian cap which also covers the ears but has a peak, where as a skull cap doesnt usually. Or you can get away with just a head band I did for a while till I got brain freeze through the vents.

Neck, a buff or neck tube what ever you want to call it easier to whip off and stuff in your back pocket same with the cap though that'll likely stay on.

The spoke issue sounds like a snapped nipple from over tension best left to a mechanic as it needs a spoke holder etc on that.

keef66

Belgian cap is a must for me at this time of year; peak is handy for keeping rain off specs and for ducking behind if blinded by oncoming dickhead with lights on main beam, ear flaps are vital if you don't want to freeze your ears off, but can be folded up if it turns out warmer than you thought.

I have a Castelli Difesa which is windstopper and fairly water resistant, but the cheaper ones do pretty much the same thing.

You can never have too many buffs.