Replace Fulcrum Zero rear rim?
kleinstroker
Posts: 2,133
Hi all
I recently bought a used set of Racing Zero Competizione with Cult Bearings, the rear rim is worn, wear is not noticeable to the touch but I measured it at about 0.1-0.2mm (business card wouldn't go under the ruler I had across rim, then measured width of card with calipers).
I have sourced a rim in Germany (£125 plus P&P) but wondered how difficult ie how costly it would be to get it rebuilt onto the new rim? And if in the end it is worth all the effort
I recently bought a used set of Racing Zero Competizione with Cult Bearings, the rear rim is worn, wear is not noticeable to the touch but I measured it at about 0.1-0.2mm (business card wouldn't go under the ruler I had across rim, then measured width of card with calipers).
I have sourced a rim in Germany (£125 plus P&P) but wondered how difficult ie how costly it would be to get it rebuilt onto the new rim? And if in the end it is worth all the effort
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Comments
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I'm sure a wheel builder on here , or even your LBS will give you a price . Google cost of spokes , nipples and bingo. Assume it's cheaper than trying to find a rear for sale only.0
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I have all the spokes etc, which I thought would be just reused from existing wheel?0
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Are you sure they are worn at 0.1-0.2mm wear? If the brake track has more than 1mm remaining (at the thinnest point), it'll be fine. Many rims have about 1.4mm wall thickness when new, so it might be only half worn or less.0
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ok, just measured as best I can using my vernier calipers, & the result I got was a rim thickness of approx 1.2mm, so Maybe that should be ok for quite a while yet
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you cant assume the nipples would unwind and spoke would not twist when removing the nipples. Assume new spokes. Any wheel builder willing to quote a price for this job is a fool. It could take 1 hr or 3. Add to that if the rim is sealed guiding the new nipples in is less fun than gutting yourself with a blunt rusty knife and you get the idea. if the wheel has life in it run it till its dead, when the rim is worn bin it.http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0
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Just for sake of completeness iRide quoted £697 to replace rear rim and rebuild wheel
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kleinstroker wrote:Just for sake of completeness iRide quoted £697 to replace rear rim and rebuild wheel
:shock:
Are you surprised?
When you buy factory wheels, rebuilds are out of question, unless you find a nutter home mechanic who is keen to do these jobs for the sake of proving a point or for environmental concerns and is happy to take beer for payment.
There is always a way to fix things, but maintaining the same aesthetic appearance comes at a cost... whereas if you are only interested in having a functioning wheel, that can be done for much much less. In your case the G3 pattern and the 21 holes rim are a severe limiting factor. I would imagine a clever bodge can be done with a 28 holes rim of similar ERD using 3 out of ever 4 holes, effectively maintaining the G3 pattern (R-L-R-0-R-L-R-0- etc...). The extra holes then need to be plugged somehow to avoid water ingress. That can be done cheaply (electrician tape) or tastefully using some epoxy type of compound.
Nipples:
In order to keep the same spokes and nipples, I suspect the spoke holes need to be widened a tad with some clever drilling and maybe reinforced with washers... it's a lot of work, but it could be a fun thing to do over the Christmas break...left the forum March 20230 -
Any more thoughts on this? I thought my idea was very clever...left the forum March 20230