Old Kickr vs New Kickr Resistance Problems

My team has the old model kickr's, and I recently bought the newest Kickr a few weeks back.

The old Kickr was fine after we figured out the power drop problem. I use TrainerRoad and Zwift, and broke the new Kickr out for a TR session last week. I couldn't finish my TrainerRoad workout, it felt way too hard compared to the old Kickr. I attempted to do a few more workouts on the old and new kickr to find out if it was a me problem or a kickr problem, and it's definitely the kickr. I've made sure the spindown was normal and have reached out to Wahoo support who just had me uninstall updates and reinstall them. I also cleaned/dusted the sensor to make sure that wasn't a factor.

Has anybody that's been on both the old and new Kickr noticed something like this? Could it be the sensor is bad?

Comments

  • paulmon
    paulmon Posts: 315
    Actually yes. I had V1 Kickr replaced with a V2 Kickr under warranty and the first TR session I did I couldn't finish so I took another FTP test and it had dropped by 10-12%. I know this not to be the case because I haven't stopped riding and all my outdoor riding suggests I'm stronger than I was when I took the FTP test. It may well be the old Kickr was flattering me. I'm not overly stressed because its just a different number that I am working with and I don't train with power outdoors.

    Try taking another TR FTP test or try reducing the FTP manually just to see if that helps.
  • MiddleRinger
    MiddleRinger Posts: 678
    First gen KICKR had a reputation for over-reading, especially if not routinely calibrated correctly.
  • garabaldy
    garabaldy Posts: 9
    I had a similar problem going from the v1 to v2 with the v2 resistance being considerably harder than the v1. I did some validation tests between the unit and my bike with power meter and the resistance was noticeable down on the Kickr compared to the power meter.

    After doing some digging around and contacting Wahoo, I ended up loosing the tension belt on the Kickr (this was advised by Wahoo) until the numbers were roughly inline with my power meter, this is much easier on the v2 due to the screws being accessible without you having to take off the casing.